attn: houston busa owners!

we'll meet you at james coney at 10 also. don't forget, 59 is closed, 610 too many cops so lets take beltway!!! if any local busa owners want to meet us up at james coney on westheimer we'll be there...zxalan, blue, chrome, carbon can...santana, blue with the titanium can...pappa, blue, aluminum can...pink flamingo, red, carbon slip on's. be there!!
 
Hey!

Talked to the guys at the dearlership, and they said, "Santana, don't tear up your bike. We'll find out what's wrong with it, fix it and we'll make it right...and put it under the warranty"

The shop guy is also a busa rider, he says that he gets around 160 ponies from his bike and his is equiped as mine, so...

I'm happy as a pig in sh*t!!!

They have a mobile dyno (trailer mounted) that they're going to test the bike on to double check the numbers before and after.

I AM TRULY A HAPPY CAMPER!

-santana-
 
hey santana!! if it's ok, can you hook me up with these guys with the dyno???? i'm more than willing to pay since i'm having a hard time finding anyone in houston to help me. i want to try a couple different maps with the power commander and then with no commander! let me know if you can help and what i need to do!!!! thanks in advance!!
 
Awesome ride last night ZXALAN & Pappabusa...

I'm really concerned about my busa's numbers.

Other than riding with the throttle wide open on almost every ride, I've kept up with my maintenance and babied it.

Sh*t, I paid too much for this bike and kept up with it too well to get this back in return. I'm thinking about taking out the fuel filter thing today.

ZXALAN - short of just taking off a sh*tload of plastic to get to the filter, is there anything else that I should be aware of?

I want to get this done prior to getting it run on the dyno again to see if there is a difference, or if I have other problems. Do you think that this could be warranty workable/related problems? I have a friend at the dealership that I bought the bike from, and he's always been helpful...but I find it hard to trust anyone at a dealership. Warranty or not, they act as if it's their pocket that you're taking the $$$ out of, but their just so happy to take it from you.
 
Nah, F.uck dealers, look, you can do this yourself, its real easy, you don't have to remove the fairing. Try this it will take you about 2 hours. Do it before the dyno today!!

1. Get 2' 3/8" HD fuel hose, 6)small hose clamps. And some sort of insulation or CAREFULLY cut off the factory foam boot with a razor, then when you reinstall it, just tape it across the slit.

2. Raise the tank, its easier if you remove the airbox but you may be able to do it with the airbox on. Put zip ties on both the fuel feed and fuel return lines PINCHING THEM OFF COMPLETELY. You will still lose some fuel. On the bottom of the tank there is a pet**** valve with no handle, you must losen the two little screws, take needle nose pliers, turn the round flat rotating valve on the pet**** half way from its current position, tighten screws. This will shut off the fuel feed so you can replace the feed hose.

3. Cut off the foam(nicely so you can reuse it)take the squeeze clamps off of the two hoses(through junk clamps away)remove hoses from pump, Losen 4 bolts(2 on each side of the pump on brackets)pump will hang there by the intermitten hose between the pump and the fuel rail.

4. This small 2" long hose has pressed type clamps so you have to cut the hose in the middle of it(you're going to replace it and the clamps)and pull the vacuum hose off of the Fuel Pressure regulator then pull the pump out and sit it on a nice, clean bench.

5. Go back to the fuel rail where you cut the small hose in half, try to either cut the clamp or pull it apart so you can get the cut piece of hose off of the fuel rail feed fitting and do the same on the other half of the cut hose which is on the side of the pump. PS> BECAREFUL WITH THE FUEL RAIL, ITS FRAGILE!

6.Take pump apart carefully, paying close attenion to what comes out where and try not to tear the O-rings. You have 2 screws on the regulator, take the regulator off and under it in the 1/4" hole is a thimble screen, tap on the pump it will fall out, clean it.

7. Take 4 phillips screws out of the housing, split the pump.

8. Disconnect 2 wires to the motor, carefully pull the motor outpaying attention to the bushing and o-ring on its feed nozzle.

9. In the housing underneath where the motor was sitting is a white isolator with 3 clips and a screen. Pull it out carefully by lifting the clips PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH SIDE THE LITTLE HOLE ON THE ISOLATOR IS ON, I THINKS ITS THE RIGHT SIDE LOOKING DOWN INTO IT, IT HAS TO GO BACK IN JUST THE WAY IT COMES OUT. Clean the isolator screen and push it back it. Slide the motor back into the housing, reattach the wires.

10. On the other half of the housing, pull out hte yellow plastic cover, BECAREFUL with the big o-ring. There is a big spring behind it and a big round filter. Check the filter but usually they are ok. Re-assemble carefully just as you removed it. Fit the two housings back together, you can see while doing it how it fits together, reinstall the 4 screws, carefull with those o-rings, re-install the regulator and the two screws.

11. Cut a piece of the new hose about 2" long and screw to the fuel pump to rail nozzle(right by the regulator)tighten the small screw clamp(1 of the new ones) on it TIGHT

12. Fit the pump back into the brackets sliding the hose with an additional clamp on the Fuel rail feed fitting. Get it Tight!

13. Re-install the 4 screws in the brackets and you're done with the pump. Hook vacuum hose up to the regulator!

14. Take the fuel feed hose off of the tank and cut a piece of the 3/8" HD hose about 4 or 5 inches longer. Install on the pet**** and the REAR fitting on the pump, run the hose to where it WILL NOT KINK WHEN YOU LOWER THE TANK.

15. Replace the squeeze clamps on the the stock return line with the new screw clamps.
When done there should be no stock squeeze clamps and all screw type clamps(6 of em)
Make sure you install the return hose on the front fitting of the pump and run the hose in front of the breather tube from the air box, just the way it came out only with new clamps. Put the foam sock back on the pump and duck it. Hook the power wire back to the pump.

16. Lower the tank watching the fuel feed hose carefull that its not kinking, you may have to get a stick or something and stick it in there to guide the hose in place.

REMEMBER TO TURN THE FUEL PET**** BACK ON!!!
or you'll fry the pump.

ABSOLUTELY NO KINKS ON EITHER HOSE WHEN CLOSING THE TANK.

PS, YOU MAY WANT TO START THE BIKE BEFORE YOU LOWER THE TANK AND CHECK FOR LEAKS!

Button it up and you're ready to roll.
Post you fax number and I send you some pictures of the pump.. Any problems call me at 281-831-4893, If I don't answer, leave message and your number.


Wheww, I am tired, I have to get drunk now!!
 
alan and santana...enjoyed the ride last night...225!!! turn and burn!!!! alan...ever thought about writing instruction manuals for a living...you would make a butt load of money!!! you guys wanna meet at the gas station at sabo (i think) off beltway tonight about 9:30-10pm??? as you're going towards james coney on beltway take the first exit AFTER 45 (think it's called sabo?) we'll meet at the gas station. santana...after last night i wouldn't feel so bad...the way we ran tells me that i'm in the same boat you are!! my brother will be there tonight and he has a busa as well. now...if he walks away from us then we have a problem. if not, i'll feel much better!! you guys down for tonight??

[This message has been edited by pappabusa (edited 18 August 2000).]
 
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