Anyone using automotive car oil in their Busa?
- Thread starter OB_KZZ1
- Start date
G
Guest
Used car oil in last 2 bikes and put car oil in at 500 mile service on Busa. I have never had any problems, others may have. Motors I've been into were clean and showed no unusual wear. Just my .02 Jack.
OB_Hayabusero
Registered
10W40 Castrol GTX... no problem here...
OB_VegasDude
Registered
I use Mobile 1 15-50 weight. When i shift from 5 to 6th I can't even feel it its so smooth..............
[This message has been edited by VegasDude (edited 02 April 2000).]
[This message has been edited by VegasDude (edited 02 April 2000).]
OB_BullDog
Registered
Just remember, your car has more than 1 oil to get the job done! Your bike only has 1 oil to do everything... You should use a premium motorcycle oil, designed for this task!
OB_Best Cycle Parts
Registered
I agree with Bulldog...If any questions about oils, you can call 1-800-DialOil...that number goes to Spectro Oils...they can answer alot of questions regarding the differences of oil......
OB_Hayaboosa
Registered
Motorcycle oil is not the same as Auto oil. Motorcycles have a wet clutch that uses the same oil as the engine, and you need certain additives the the oil so the clutch functu=ions properly. Don't cheat the bike of bikes.....use good oil, it'll thank you later.
OB_valklex
Registered
or change it every 1000 miles, because of breakdown. It's cheaper to use MObil1 MX4T 10W40 (or equivalent) and change it every 3000 miles. Less wear & tear on fairings and plastic parts that have to be removed every oil change.
G
Guest
Hate to disagree with some of you guys, but I have been riding motorcycles for about 20 years now and for the better part of this time I have used Auto Oil with no problems whatsoever and I am not alone my 2 riding buddies use the same about 10 years ago I started using Mobil One. It is simply the best bike shifts better than anything else I have tried. Most of my bikes have gone around 50,000 miles before I trade them in on a new one. Have never seen of or heard of any problems from using auto oil instead of motorcycle oil. Note one of my riding partners has around 75,000 miles on his 91 GSXR-1100 using Mobil One as soon as bike was broken in. The thing is still going strong.
OB_FalconCOP161
Registered
Amsoil 2000, 20-50 Best oil to date I've ever used. Shifts like Silk,keeps the temp Low.
In NJ about 7.95 a Qt, But I got a free Case from a buddy of mine,It's great what a PBA card can get you.
161 ®
In NJ about 7.95 a Qt, But I got a free Case from a buddy of mine,It's great what a PBA card can get you.
161 ®
OB_Busa1300
Registered
I agree lots of the guys I know that race and street ride all use mobil 1. I have on my last 2 turbo bikes simple because its a synthetic and has a higher flash point temp and turbos run real hot ( oil supply to turbo bearings ). I always break in with standard dino juice like castrol GTX.
OB_VegasDude
Registered
Well all I know is I asked Brock Davidson what oil to use and he said Mobile 1 car oil..............good enough for me........
OB_Dirty Pete
Registered
If you do the homework and read the research papers you know that motorcycle specific oil is an overpriced con job. Mobil 1 car oil outperformed ALL other oils for viscosity retention; outperforming the next best oil by 30%. I run it and have no clutch slipping or other problems.
OB_Wizzard
Registered
After 3300 miles I switched from semi synthetic to mobil 1 15/50. The engine runs as smooth as silk the clutch is much better and it shifts much better. I bought the oil at pep boys for $23.00 a six pack. Where can I buy the oil filters in bulk?
G
Guest
You got it Vegas, I asked Brock the same thing and thats what he told me to. Use the 10/30 car oil.
Yeah Vegas---but brock is into his engine all the time----stop / go and heat are the killers of oil along with the shearing action of the trans. Think about it----A car engine has no application that can compere to a bikes trans and clutch. Ya know- a lot of us formed these opnions years ago and none of us are going to change their mind.
G
Guest
The only real question here is are there any structural or molecular differences in mobil 1 for cars as opposed to mobil 1 for bikes.
DP, if in fact you've done the research please enlighten me.
DP, if in fact you've done the research please enlighten me.
OB_BullDog
Registered
I dunno, but how many cars on the street rev 11-14000 rpms!? and share the same fluid with the tranny....mmmmmm
Does the car oils have the same additives as MC oil, for instance a NON foaming agent, so when you lean it over and personalize your side fairing your clutch is like an egg beater in the oil which would create foam if it didn't have this anti-agent, which in turn could plug your oil pump.. not a good thing!
The guys from Motul explain this really well.. If you get the chance go see Herve or David at a Motul booth at a bike show near you!
Does the car oils have the same additives as MC oil, for instance a NON foaming agent, so when you lean it over and personalize your side fairing your clutch is like an egg beater in the oil which would create foam if it didn't have this anti-agent, which in turn could plug your oil pump.. not a good thing!
The guys from Motul explain this really well.. If you get the chance go see Herve or David at a Motul booth at a bike show near you!
OB_SEBZX79
Registered
From: Motulusa
Sent: Friday, January 16, 1998 1:55 AM
To: jjf@inri.com; gas900@worldnet.att.net
Cc: ducati@ducati.net
Subject: Re: DUCATI: Oil SJ API ratings question
TO : ANYONE WHO WANTS TO READ IT
Q&A ON OILS
Someone asked about car oil verses m/c oils with concerns of SHEAR.
1. Most car oils are designed for TODAY'S standards. SJ for instance is a good
rating for a car. But if you dig deep into the tests the maximum amount of
extreme pressure additives Zinc, phosphorous and such are cut in HALF in
certain apps.
· WHY, because if the chemicals are burned and get to the O2 sensor they react
with and cause problems, same is true for the catalytic converter. Do you
burn oil and do you have a O2 sensor?
· Car oils do not NEED to bump up the Extreme Pressure (EP) additives as do
REAL MOTORCYCLE OILS.
· WHY, gears, shift drum, shift forks, and maybe the fact that a 916 pumps out
40%+ more HP per CC than most HIGH powered sports cars.
· MOTUL uses two types EP packages. First, Sulfur, zinc, phosphorous and
second is a SULFURIZED ESTER for very big emergencies. I.E., wrong gear under
load up hill wide open. Several times a day!!
-No oil company ever said that using car oil will Break your engine. When you
need the extra protection its there. After the zillion miles are done and you
tear down the engine how many parts are RE-USABLE! That is the question.
Q. The friction Modified SJ oils ECII and SOON ECIII are just plain no good
for high HP. (YAMAHA now has lables stateing "NON FRICTION MODIFIED")
· RINGS don't seat, scraper RINGS don't scrap, roller bearings don't roll they
flatten.....
Q. Viscosity Retention cause of loss.
· Simply put, Petroleum oils need POLYMERS added to make them act like a
MULTI GRADE oil. The polymers look like long spaghetti. When high shear
applications arise such as the pinch and drag of the GEARS in a bike, the long
strands get CHOPPED UP. When that happens, good by MULTI-grade oil.
· The so called fair test done by a magazine, tested synthetics against petro
oils. Synthetics need far fewer polymers to reach the grades and therefore
last longer in retention. This expert tested different grades against
different grades, different times of the year with different temps outside.
Different routes and different loads, and it took 18000 miles to do. The motor
I suppose was exactly in the same condition every time a new oil was used. Oh
please.
For those who compare your car or truck experiences with that of your bike,
remember the differences. HP per CC, Quantity of oil in the sump, cooling
capacity, engine bulk, size of components, RPM....
Remember MOTUL "ESTER" synthetics can handle high temps before burning up,
I.E. Butter verses vegetable oil in a pan. One burns fast and leaves deposits
one can take the heat without leaving much at all. Think of that when a rock
hits your radiator on the top of your canyon run.
If anyone wishes to have some more info on cars verses m/c send e-mail for syn
in America.
motulusa@aol Dave
Sent: Friday, January 16, 1998 1:55 AM
To: jjf@inri.com; gas900@worldnet.att.net
Cc: ducati@ducati.net
Subject: Re: DUCATI: Oil SJ API ratings question
TO : ANYONE WHO WANTS TO READ IT
Q&A ON OILS
Someone asked about car oil verses m/c oils with concerns of SHEAR.
1. Most car oils are designed for TODAY'S standards. SJ for instance is a good
rating for a car. But if you dig deep into the tests the maximum amount of
extreme pressure additives Zinc, phosphorous and such are cut in HALF in
certain apps.
· WHY, because if the chemicals are burned and get to the O2 sensor they react
with and cause problems, same is true for the catalytic converter. Do you
burn oil and do you have a O2 sensor?
· Car oils do not NEED to bump up the Extreme Pressure (EP) additives as do
REAL MOTORCYCLE OILS.
· WHY, gears, shift drum, shift forks, and maybe the fact that a 916 pumps out
40%+ more HP per CC than most HIGH powered sports cars.
· MOTUL uses two types EP packages. First, Sulfur, zinc, phosphorous and
second is a SULFURIZED ESTER for very big emergencies. I.E., wrong gear under
load up hill wide open. Several times a day!!
-No oil company ever said that using car oil will Break your engine. When you
need the extra protection its there. After the zillion miles are done and you
tear down the engine how many parts are RE-USABLE! That is the question.
Q. The friction Modified SJ oils ECII and SOON ECIII are just plain no good
for high HP. (YAMAHA now has lables stateing "NON FRICTION MODIFIED")
· RINGS don't seat, scraper RINGS don't scrap, roller bearings don't roll they
flatten.....
Q. Viscosity Retention cause of loss.
· Simply put, Petroleum oils need POLYMERS added to make them act like a
MULTI GRADE oil. The polymers look like long spaghetti. When high shear
applications arise such as the pinch and drag of the GEARS in a bike, the long
strands get CHOPPED UP. When that happens, good by MULTI-grade oil.
· The so called fair test done by a magazine, tested synthetics against petro
oils. Synthetics need far fewer polymers to reach the grades and therefore
last longer in retention. This expert tested different grades against
different grades, different times of the year with different temps outside.
Different routes and different loads, and it took 18000 miles to do. The motor
I suppose was exactly in the same condition every time a new oil was used. Oh
please.
For those who compare your car or truck experiences with that of your bike,
remember the differences. HP per CC, Quantity of oil in the sump, cooling
capacity, engine bulk, size of components, RPM....
Remember MOTUL "ESTER" synthetics can handle high temps before burning up,
I.E. Butter verses vegetable oil in a pan. One burns fast and leaves deposits
one can take the heat without leaving much at all. Think of that when a rock
hits your radiator on the top of your canyon run.
If anyone wishes to have some more info on cars verses m/c send e-mail for syn
in America.
motulusa@aol Dave
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