Alarm warnings and conditions

My wiring diagrams from the manual only show where the harness connects to the combination meter which is the gauge cluster. That would be your indicator lighting.

If you're about to install an alarm contact me. This bike is not alarm friendly. I have information I have yet to post in a thread.
 
D@mn, I wish I posted this earlier. I tried to install an alarm on mine and you hack into the wiring harness to flash the left and right turn signals, well the front turn signal circuit is separate from the rear, and in the process of installing that 12 V wire from your alarm to flash the signals, you probably shorted out the rear turn signal relay. And the turn signal in the rear tail light assembly. The only way to fix that light is to replace the tail light assembly for $450. I just bought one, I have a friend in San Diego they can repair the gauge cluster if after you replace the rear turn signal assembly you have no turn signal on that side. I should've posted this earlier I haven't had time,

The wiring voltage for the turn signals is between 2 1/2 V and 8 1/2 V. When you hook up the 12 V wire from your alarm it shorts the poop out of everything.

Call me, Adam, 702-521-0214.

PS The manual is very specific, if you damage the rear turn signal relay which is embedded in the gauge cluster, combination meter, or you blow out one of the LEDs in the rear turn signal assembly you have to replace the unit. Now that's true for the rear turn signal assembly, but the gauge cluster can be repaired. My guy is working on it right now. I'll have a solution for you shortly.
 
I spoke with the gentleman who designed the alarms and as an electrical engineer, he has recommended that anyone with a 2021 or 2022 Hayabusa or any other modern bike with LEDs in the signals that we should install LED strips rated for 12 V in an inconspicuous place that will flash intern in place of the turn signals. You just wire a little differently and you don't hack into the wiring loom and damage the turn signal circuit.
 
By the way the LEDs in our turn signal assembly are the raw variety, which means they have to be specific voltage for our turn signal relay. They are not resisted.

My apologies to everyone on the board that has had troubles with this issue, I could've posted earlier but I've been working out the logistics for the repair and I wanted to post it as a group offering.
 
In the rear turn signal circuit, the left and right turn signal wiring, When tested should show 2 1/2 to 8 1/2 V as it flashes. It should ascend, or go up 2 1/2 V, then 4V, then 5 1/2V, then like 8, or 8 1/2V. Then start over. Very limited, very controlled. The front turn signal relay does the opposite. It starts high and goes down . When testing that rear circuit after you install a good gauge cluster with good turn signal relays your left and right turn signal should show that voltage. If they show different voltages then it's damaged. do not connect a good rear turn signal assembly to this wire loom until you validated those voltages. If it shows steady voltage, or no voltage, the turn signal relay has been damaged but it can be repaired. My shop in San Diego has a genius there, and he figured it out.

Many motorcycle alarms have that 12 V wire to light up the turn signals when it arms and disarmed, we can't wire into those wiring rooms anymore. Because the new bikes with the LEDs have different voltage requirements.

That's where the 12 V LED strips come in to play. Will have to use them to indicate arming and disarming instead of the motorcycles wiring loom.
 
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Don't know about the factory option, but I found a replacement chip. I'm working on the logistics right now.

I just wanted to make sure we got the word out so that anyone that was thinking about doing this does his homework first. If you install four diode's in the wires that go into the gauge cluster from the turn signals you block the surge from the 12 V arm and disarm wire out of the alarm.

Then you tap into the wire next to the bulb and you can still use the LEDs as flashers for yhe alarm.

That would be the absolute minimum you would have to do to use the lights on the motorcycle. Or, you install 12 V LED light strips underneath the bike in some area and use that instead. Much simpler. Either way will work now that we know what the trappings are.
 
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This is the Texas instruments chip that is in each and every Combination meter/gauge cluster. There are four total. If you damaged the rear turn signal assembly relay, you only have to replace the one. The others are unaffected. This chip is not available from Texas instruments here in the states, or from digikey.com. I'm making arrangements to order a minimum of 10 Texas Instruments 92630 from Alibaba which should be here in a few weeks. Cost is $.44 plus tax plus shipping per chip. Less than a dollar repair plus labor to have an electronics expert take out the old chip, and replace it.
 
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This thread is now for those that currently have had issues with alarm installation, and turn signal relay damage, and future members that may have this same situation.

I just ordered 20 of the chips shown above, Texas Instruments 92630, the breakdown on cost looks to be something about $6.33 for each chip shipped to my door. One is going to Australia, the other 19 are up for grabs,

I have two sources that can remove and reinstall the chips. I will post labor charges at a later date. What that means is if you have a damaged turn signal relay' gauge cluster, and you mail it to me, I will take it to my NASA aerospace electrical engineer friend, or my San Diego partner in chrime, and they will be happy to pop the old chip off, and install the new one. They will then validate all the circuits before we box it back up and send it back to you.

The second scenario is you send me $6.33 for the chip, you cover shipping by mail, or FedEx, or whatever, and you can source out your own local electrical expert to do the R&R. Whatever you pay for the labor to remove, and install, nothing will be added beyond what they expect for their trouble, and shipping to and from.

i'm glad we were able to find the chip, we know what's inside the gauge cluster for future reference, and for those that haven't made this mistake you now have fair warning to be very careful.

The factory alarm sounds fine, I prefer to run an alarm that has a pager alert and other qualities like perimeter sensor, motion sensor, that sort of thing. I don't know what the factory alarm does but I've run the same alarm for years. I just have to repair my bike and get it to work right.

If anyone in the ORG community runs into people that are having problems like this, just send them the link to this post. The beauty of Doug's site is that things I posted back in 2005 are still here somewhere, and considering this is a new model bike, and we've discovered flaws in the machine, we can be more helpful to new owners, and other members of the Hayabusa community. :thumbsup:

PS i'm still a bit surprised that the Suzuki electrical engineers didn't see this possibility. An advisory would have been helpful.
 
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OK kids, chips are on the way. Adjustment in price total with shipping to my door per piece $8.36. The company didn't update their Alibaba website so I had to pay an extra two bucks a chip.

My repair contact in San Diego quotes $100 for removal and reinstallation of new chip. So total for San Diego vendor would be $108.36 plus shipping cost, i.e. Fedex, DHL, UPS, USPS. Also please be advised my vendor in San Diego noted that there are four of these chips in our gauge cluster. Considering the front turn signal circuit and the rear turn signal circuit are isolated from each other, unless there are extenuating circumstances, one chip should repair the gauge cluster. We are in business.

With shipping and handling included, whatever that costs, a new unit from Suzuki costs you $1499 plus tax and shipping. I think we have succeeded in amending this repair issue as it makes it's self evident.

I still hold Suzuki responsible for not giving us a heads up, Brian in Suzuki warranty in Brea simply didn't offer any options, not the bike's fault, but in this case we found an affordable repair option. It just took a little foot work.

My repaired unit is on the way back from San Diego as we speak. I'll plug in the gauge cluster, validate all voltages, and report back.

Spud out.

PS

By the way, both my repair guys said you send 12 V up that line to that chip it's toast. Even an accidental short will toast these chips. I guess we got to be more careful from now on. The old dedicated 12 V systems with incandescent bulbs were a lot more durable.
 
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