A shake at 130

[ktw88q]

So I am out playen with my cous and my friend on his new 08 gsxr 1000. We get a clear light 5 lanes I junp hard click 2nd 3rd feel a wobble let off he goes by. I know something is not rite. I go to hooters up the road to find all 6 of my sprocket bols snapped dam glad I let off.Wow I love the new tune and rims but dam the bolts dont.Back at home limped it 2 miles.

 

[ktw88q]

And

 

[ktw88q]

I Cant beleve well fu*k grade 8.

 

[ktw88q]

well

 

[ktw88q]

few pic

 

[ktw88q]

....

 

[ktw88q]

sucks it will be 65 and sunny in the morning.

 

[needlepimp]

Grade 8 have greater pull strength, you want Grade 5 for greater shear strength.

 

[pcosho]

You were very lucky my friend. Glad to see nothing bad came out of that and that exhaust is what I would like to have on mine, looks good.

 

[SHADiGUY1]

thankfully the chain didnt bind up and rip through your engine casing

 

[proud dad]

great to see you made it home ok

 

[rockadaous]

that could have been nasty. glad you made it home ok

 

[DR1300R]

Glad you and the Busa are ok..

 

[Tufbusa]

Wrong bolts to use in that application. Try the OEM bolts with a flanged head, throw those lock washers away, apply a single drop of blue locktite, use a torque wrench and your problem will be solved. Unless of course the theads in the wheel are all fukered up?

From looking at the length of bolt that broke off, I'd guess they were all loose enough to let the sprocket move out in order to get enough leverage to break the bolts. You'd never break 8 grade bolts if the sprocket was tight.

It also appears from the first pic that the bolts were moving around by the marks around the holes? At the very least, get a bolt that has a short shoulder in order to properly fill the holes in the sprocket. I use a little dab of silicone on the threads rather than locktite. Works great for me. My guess is, the main reason the bolts backed out is from hand tightening them. Always use a torque wrench and stager the bolts as you torque them just like you would on an engine head.

You are fortunate your problem is not MUCH more severe!

 

[99'busa]

that could have been scary. glad you let off.

 

[Luvanicebum]

Wrong bolts to use in that application. Try the OEM bolts with a flanged head, throw those lock washers away, apply a single drop of blue locktite, use a torque wrench and your problem will be solved. Unless of course the theads in the wheel are all fukered up?

From looking at the length of bolt that broke off, I'd guess they were all loose enough to let the sprocket move out in order to get enough leverage to break the bolts. You'd never break 8 grade bolts if the sprocket was tight.

It also appears from the first pic that the bolts were moving around by the marks around the holes? At the very least, get a bolt that has a short shoulder in order to properly fill the holes in the sprocket. I use a little dab of silicone on the threads rather than locktite. Works great for me. My guess is, the main reason the bolts backed out is from hand tightening them. Always use a torque wrench and stager the bolts as you torque them just like you would on an engine head.

You are fortunate your problem is not MUCH more severe!

+1000
Loctite, torque wrench.

 

[ktw88q]

Both loctite and torqued with allen.The marks are from the bolts what you see in the pic is halph the bolts ,other halph still loctited in the hub all 6 will need to be drilled, I would never hand tight sprocket bolts.Oem bolt is not used in this app with no crush drive.

 

[Benesesso]

I wouldn't use Loctite for this application. The bolts need to be tight enough to not loosen w/o stuff like Loctite. Consider the nuts on con rods. No Loctite, torque them way up, and they almost never loosen. Loctite is for stuff you can't tighten way up, like soft gasketed joints.