a few questions- 1st time turbo

[BikeMasterBahrain]

I have a K8 busa, and a few weeks ago my valve retainer broke so i opened up my engine.. (completely) i did see the retainer but continued to open it up incase something else broke.
Anyway since my engine is open i was considering going for a stage 1 turbo kit, i have seen the velocity turbo kits but i cant seem to email them (rpm cycle performance) i get a email failed to send.
My questions are what turbo do you guys recommend? im a first timer for turbo and have little knowledge of it on a bike.

I dont want to spend a whole lot, i would like to build as i go, so i would like to install a turbo then maybe a few months down the line i will replace the valves to stainless steel, springs, etc.. so really im looking for a start-up turbo system. Also what and where can i get the spacer from to lower my stock CR? would i need the APE studs? My busa is stock except for a full system+pc3+ velocity stacks.

Any input?

 

[black diamond busa]

Cheap and Turbo don't go together. I would do the vavles before you put on the Turbo. Then you will only be in the engine once not twice.

 

[dadofthree]

Richard at RCC IMHO. Stage 1 kit wouldn't require you to do engine work, but Richard will be glad to help you and answer all your questions. He's regarded as the best or at least one of them.

He mocks his systems up, so basically you buy it from him and bolt it on.

Yes, turbo systems are not cheap.

NOT A MECHANIC NEVER HAD A TURBO ANYTHING


Contact - Richard Peppler

 

[turbo11]

+1 RCC got RCC stage 1 kit on my 06, couldn't be happier, his kits come pre assembled as much as possible, I think on Gen2 you will need stainless steel valves, base gasket spacer will drop comp ratio, I did MLS head gasket and ARP head studs and nuts on mine, and HD valve springs

 

[POWERHOUSE]

I have a K8 busa, and a few weeks ago my valve retainer broke so i opened up my engine.. (completely) i did see the retainer but continued to open it up incase something else broke.
Anyway since my engine is open i was considering going for a stage 1 turbo kit, i have seen the velocity turbo kits but i cant seem to email them (rpm cycle performance) i get a email failed to send.
My questions are what turbo do you guys recommend? im a first timer for turbo and have little knowledge of it on a bike.

I dont want to spend a whole lot, i would like to build as i go, so i would like to install a turbo then maybe a few months down the line i will replace the valves to stainless steel, springs, etc.. so really im looking for a start-up turbo system. Also what and where can i get the spacer from to lower my stock CR? would i need the APE studs? My busa is stock except for a full system+pc3+ velocity stacks.

Any input?

Stay away from Velocity/RPM and stay away from Hahn. RCC kits are the best quality off the shelf kits you can buy. On a Gen 2, you can literally bolt on an RCC Stage One and make 230 rwhp on pump gas at 4 pounds of boost. That motor is limited by soft valve springs and high compression. If you go into the motor, the same exact Stage One kit has the potential of making well over 300 rwhp on race fuel, but on pump - with stainless valves and valve springs - you can turn the boost up to 8 pounds, and you will see 260ish at the rear wheel. All of RCC's kits are warrantied for two years, and POWERHOUSE is still offering the only discount available to org members - we keep spacer plates, turbo pistons, rods, studs, water/meth injection kits, etc., etc., everything and anything you might need for a successful and reliable setup. And I strongly recommend that you have it professionally installed and tuned . . .

 

[BikeMasterBahrain]

Thanks for you input! i do want a kit for a daily driven bike.
As i live in the middle east (bahrain) i believe that ill be the first to install a turbo kit on a K8 in bahrain and will be doing it myself.
the spacer that reduces the CR, will that mean if installed i will need to get the APE head studs?
how much does a turbo weigh? i will need to know the weight of it for shipping prices.

my engine is already open now due to the retainer being broke, should i install titanium retainers? stainless steel valves and heavy duty springs, what will this achieve?
Do i need to replace the clutch springs only or the complete clutch kit? Barnett? EBC? Vesra?

What is water injection? is that like Meth kits for cars? what does that do? Our fuel here is 92 octane ( i think usa uses it as RON?)

 

[OZBooster]

Studs are a good idea anyway, spacer brings the compression down into the 10's

Quite surprised the std retainer broke, can you post pics ?? many of us use std retainers with very heavy springs and have no reliability issues

std Ti valves don't respond well to the added heat from a turbo or the extra spring pressure needed, thats why you upgrade to either the gen 1 valves or new stainless valves
Turbo clutch springs will be all you need if your clutch pack is in good order

 

[gulag]

I installed a turbo on my gen 1 last winter, I bought all the parts from here and there and made quite a few of the myself, mainly because working on my bike is for me almost as fun as riding it..

If you want to do the install fast and safe, buy a complete kit... reinventing the wheel like I did takes a lot of time and reading (and money),, and, a LOT of help from the guys on this forum.. hahaha...

Talk to Frank (powerhouse), great guy with a lot of knowledge...

 

[BikeMasterBahrain]

Studs are a good idea anyway, spacer brings the compression down into the 10's

Quite surprised the std retainer broke, can you post pics ?? many of us use std retainers with very heavy springs and have no reliability issues

std Ti valves don't respond well to the added heat from a turbo or the extra spring pressure needed, thats why you upgrade to either the gen 1 valves or new stainless valves
Turbo clutch springs will be all you need if your clutch pack is in good order

I was driving the bike and got a hiccup + black smoke..(was trying to pull a wheelie) when i slowed down i heard a familar sound, it sounded as if the main bearing was gone, the sound got louder as i rev'd.
So i thought maybe bad plug, opened the plug..nothing, so i opened up the engine, i noticed the retainer broke and i was like how? so i countined to open up the engine, to see where the other half of the retainer went and to check that my crank is fine.
turns out the only thing damaged was the retainer, it broke in half but the valve lock kept the valve from hitting the piston. I will post you a pic of the retainer.
So this is why i thought since all is open and i have a few $$ let me put it back with a turbo installed. I will now need new connecting rod bearings and main bearings, one retainer and i should be good to go.
depending on the cost involved i would decide weather to change the springs and valves now or @ a later date as i would like to start from some-where and i do do my own work so it wouldnt cost me any labour or much time to reopen the head and replace the required items.
My only fear is the hot climate and crap fuel we have here. I believe Califorina has similar crap fuel or so am told and shares some of Bahrain's weather , we run 92 octane, i need to find out if its MON or RON thou.
As a first timer i dont really know what i would need and what i wouldnt.
So far the only info i got was from the above posters.
Valves, springs, and turbo clutch springs. I am under the assumtion that i can install the RCC turbo without head-work to start out with, then do it at a later stage.
looking @ the RCC turbo pic it doesnt seem hard to install.
Frank @ powerhouse seems highly recommended here so im hoping he can sort me out and help me

 

[POWERHOUSE]

I was driving the bike and got a hiccup + black smoke..(was trying to pull a wheelie) when i slowed down i heard a familar sound, it sounded as if the main bearing was gone, the sound got louder as i rev'd.
So i thought maybe bad plug, opened the plug..nothing, so i opened up the engine, i noticed the retainer broke and i was like how? so i countined to open up the engine, to see where the other half of the retainer went and to check that my crank is fine.
turns out the only thing damaged was the retainer, it broke in half but the valve lock kept the valve from hitting the piston. I will post you a pic of the retainer.
So this is why i thought since all is open and i have a few $$ let me put it back with a turbo installed. I will now need new connecting rod bearings and main bearings, one retainer and i should be good to go.
depending on the cost involved i would decide weather to change the springs and valves now or @ a later date as i would like to start from some-where and i do do my own work so it wouldnt cost me any labour or much time to reopen the head and replace the required items.
My only fear is the hot climate and crap fuel we have here. I believe Califorina has similar crap fuel or so am told and shares some of Bahrain's weather , we run 92 octane, i need to find out if its MON or RON thou.
As a first timer i dont really know what i would need and what i wouldnt.
So far the only info i got was from the above posters.
Valves, springs, and turbo clutch springs. I am under the assumtion that i can install the RCC turbo without head-work to start out with, then do it at a later stage.
looking @ the RCC turbo pic it doesnt seem hard to install.
Frank @ powerhouse seems highly recommended here so im hoping he can sort me out and help me

Ali, as I told you in the pm you can install the Stage One Gen 2 kit on a stock engine but because of compression and weak valve springs you are limited to 4 pounds of boost and about 230 rwhp on pump fuel. If you buy the Ecu Editor kit, the stock injectors will take you up to around 350 with a built motor, but not on crap fuel. Anything over 8 pounds of boost will require better fuel, or some type of intercooler (air/air, air/water, or water/meth injection). If you have unlimited funds, you want the Ultra plenum, which will enable you to run 18 pounds on pump. With a limited budget, I would start with a Stage One Ecu Editor kit. The nice part about RCC is the fact that any future upgrades will involve the motor, the kit is already capable of making close to 450 rear wheel - with larger secondary injectors and race fuel. POWERHOUSE does stock everything you need, including oem rod and main bearings, gaskets, spacers, etc., etc. And as explicit as the instructions are with the kit, we will be more than happy to answer any questions you may have along the way. . . .

 

[black diamond busa]

Ali, as I told you in the pm you can install the Stage One Gen 2 kit on a stock engine but because of compression and weak valve springs you are limited to 4 pounds of boost and about 230 rwhp on pump fuel. If you buy the Ecu Editor kit, the stock injectors will take you up to around 350 with a built motor, but not on crap fuel. Anything over 8 pounds of boost will require better fuel, or some type of intercooler (air/air, air/water, or water/meth injection). If you have unlimited funds, you want the Ultra plenum, which will enable you to run 18 pounds on pump. With a limited budget, I would start with a Stage One Ecu Editor kit. The nice part about RCC is the fact that any future upgrades will involve the motor, the kit is already capable of making close to 450 rear wheel - with larger secondary injectors and race fuel. POWERHOUSE does stock everything you need, including oem rod and main bearings, gaskets, spacers, etc., etc. And as explicit as the instructions are with the kit, we will be more than happy to answer any questions you may have along the way. . . .

Listen to what this man has to say. I have never done business with him but have talked and seen how he treats people. I will never have a problem giving him my bike and walking away as I know when I come to pick it up it will be what he said. He is one of the best Turbo busa guys in this country for a reason.

 

[BikeMasterBahrain]

Ali, as I told you in the pm you can install the Stage One Gen 2 kit on a stock engine but because of compression and weak valve springs you are limited to 4 pounds of boost and about 230 rwhp on pump fuel. If you buy the Ecu Editor kit, the stock injectors will take you up to around 350 with a built motor, but not on crap fuel. Anything over 8 pounds of boost will require better fuel, or some type of intercooler (air/air, air/water, or water/meth injection). If you have unlimited funds, you want the Ultra plenum, which will enable you to run 18 pounds on pump. With a limited budget, I would start with a Stage One Ecu Editor kit. The nice part about RCC is the fact that any future upgrades will involve the motor, the kit is already capable of making close to 450 rear wheel - with larger secondary injectors and race fuel. POWERHOUSE does stock everything you need, including oem rod and main bearings, gaskets, spacers, etc., etc. And as explicit as the instructions are with the kit, we will be more than happy to answer any questions you may have along the way. . . .

Thanks Frank, i already have the ECU editor bench flashing kit and have used it before on my busa, i will need to look into how to use it for turbo applications. I didnt know meth kits existed for bikes! i installed a meth kit on my friends 350Z but his is Supercharged.
whats the prices for the meth kits for bikes? and where would i install it?

 

[The Big Red One]

Thanks Frank, i already have the ECU editor bench flashing kit and have used it before on my busa, i will need to look into how to use it for turbo applications. I didnt know meth kits existed for bikes! i installed a meth kit on my friends 350Z but his is Supercharged.
whats the prices for the meth kits for bikes? and where would i install it?

Installing the turbo kit is easy, it sounds like you have more than enough skills for the job. You just need to be thorough The biggest issue will be getting a good tune and not getting boost greedy with sketchy fuel. The biggest turbo bike killers are bad tunes and guys wanting more boost than their engine and the fuel can handle.

 

[POWERHOUSE]

Installing the turbo kit is easy, it sounds like you have more than enough skills for the job. You just need to be thorough The biggest issue will be getting a good tune and not getting boost greedy with sketchy fuel. The biggest turbo bike killers are bad tunes and guys wanting more boost than their engine and the fuel can handle.

Copy that!

Thanks Frank, i already have the ECU editor bench flashing kit and have used it before on my busa, i will need to look into how to use it for turbo applications. I didnt know meth kits existed for bikes! i installed a meth kit on my friends 350Z but his is Supercharged.
whats the prices for the meth kits for bikes? and where would i install it?

We generally refer to them as water injection kits: basically, a 100psi pump with a progressive controller and a water jet that shoots highly atomized liquid into the boost tube before the plenum. We normally use windshield washer antifreeze, the blue stuff that you get at a regular auto store for $1 a gallon. It is a mixture of water and methanol; the water cools down the intake charge and the methanol kicks up the octane a bit, enabling you to run a little more boost on the same fuel. The RCC kits are $800, including the tank. The tank usually goes in the tail along with the pump and a line runs up towards the plenum . . .

 

[BikeMasterBahrain]

Copy that!



We generally refer to them as water injection kits: basically, a 100psi pump with a progressive controller and a water jet that shoots highly atomized liquid into the boost tube before the plenum. We normally use windshield washer antifreeze, the blue stuff that you get at a regular auto store for $1 a gallon. It is a mixture of water and methanol; the water cools down the intake charge and the methanol kicks up the octane a bit, enabling you to run a little more boost on the same fuel. The RCC kits are $800, including the tank. The tank usually goes in the tail along with the pump and a line runs up towards the plenum . . .

Thanks Frank, thats interesting that bikes now have the option of Meth injection, althou i wont be able to get this now as ill need to get the turbo from you and the rest of the parts, but def something to consider for later.

 

[BikeMasterBahrain]

silly question, how do i set the boost to 8psi or lower or higher? :stupid:

 

[POWERHOUSE]

silly question, how do i set the boost to 8psi or lower or higher? :stupid:

You can order the kit with the base spring in the wastegate at whatever you want for the lowest boost. Many drag racers use a 4 pound spring in the gate and then use a boost controller to increase the boost progressively to whatever they want to run. An Ecu Editor Stage One Gen 2 will come with a 4 pound spring if you are installing it on a totally stock motor. Running 8 pounds on a stock motor will make for a really great first - and last - run.

 

[BikeMasterBahrain]

You can order the kit with the base spring in the wastegate at whatever you want for the lowest boost. Many drag racers use a 4 pound spring in the gate and then use a boost controller to increase the boost progressively to whatever they want to run. An Ecu Editor Stage One Gen 2 will come with a 4 pound spring if you are installing it on a totally stock motor. Running 8 pounds on a stock motor will make for a really great first - and last - run.

so it comes with the kit, sorry i meant 4psi. so i would not need a boost controller?

 

[POWERHOUSE]

so it comes with the kit, sorry i meant 4psi. so i would not need a boost controller?

A boost controller is used to go higher than your base spring pressure. If you are intending on running 4 psi, and just that one level of boost, a controller is not necessary.

 

[RYC1966]

do you have access to a shop that dial in / tune the air / fuel if value if you do get a turbo?