best turbo for price

Nicholas

Registered
when i mean best i mean like just all around best for the money, with my tax returns come in in a few months i would like to get a stage 1 turbo kit, and i have a few questions about turbo-ed bikes in general aswell too..

i heard from few people that u cant stay WOT for that long on a turbo bike cause it will mess it up, and when purchasing a turbo kit what all should be done to the bike to make sure it will stay healthy.. just wat are the pros and cons on a turbo... i like to open my bike up on the high ways and heard that on turbo bikes its all good and manageable under 6k rpms on streets..

about my bike. 2003
33kmiles i have my engine on my table and split sending out trans to FBG for undercutting. it has pc custom map (i know it will need another tune*) small airbox mod pair removed. all basic simple mods done
 
i would almost think about freshening it up a little before a turbo but thats just me. Bearings, maybe piston rings drop the compression just a little with a spacer plate that comes with the turbo kits i think. others will chime in here soon. good luck.
 
while the motor is out, its the best time to rering and bearing it. arp headstuds, crank and rod bolts "just to be safe":whistle: have all the valve seals replaced and springs checked for strenght, all new motor seals. just do an all around tune and maintenance on the bike and get it ready for the boost. with all done above your motor can hold 300hp all day long if tuned properly. good luck on the build and keep us all updated with pics and info.:beerchug:
 
or for an extra few hundred snag yourself some turbo slugs. personally i'm a fan of bullseye turbos, but they're not exactly the cheapest around.
 
when i mean best i mean like just all around best for the money, with my tax returns come in in a few months i would like to get a stage 1 turbo kit, and i have a few questions about turbo-ed bikes in general aswell too..

i heard from few people that u cant stay WOT for that long on a turbo bike cause it will mess it up, and when purchasing a turbo kit what all should be done to the bike to make sure it will stay healthy.. just wat are the pros and cons on a turbo... i like to open my bike up on the high ways and heard that on turbo bikes its all good and manageable under 6k rpms on streets..

about my bike. 2003
33kmiles i have my engine on my table and split sending out trans to FBG for undercutting. it has pc custom map (i know it will need another tune*) small airbox mod pair removed. all basic simple mods done

Replace all engine bearings, put studs, valve springs and turbo pistons in it. Get some H-beam Wossners if you are going near or over 300 rwhp.
Replace the cam chain! Do a valve job, and . . .

get yourself an RCC turbo kit! :laugh:
 
Last edited:
i would almost think about freshening it up a little before a turbo but thats just me. Bearings, maybe piston rings drop the compression just a little with a spacer plate that comes with the turbo kits i think. others will chime in here soon. good luck.

visually the bearings look perfect no scuffs or anything, and the cylinder walls look perfect as well still have their honing marks and stuff... but of course i have no idea what the piston crown looks like. but i guess before turbo replace rods and pistons then move on down the list from most expensive to least..
 
or more compression for a given octane. fighters in wwII used it to avoid detonation in their supercharged V12's at altitude. people think it's new tech, that's what gets me, lol.
 
IIRC cools down the intake charge that essentially allows for more boost on a given compression ratio.

just want to point out that im mildly retarded... been knee deep in C# all day. GOGO Sharepoint 2010 Developement...


If you increase the boost you increase the effective CR. so my previous statement isnt entirely correct. Ogre is correct. given that everything else is constant(Octane, timing, static CR), adding water injection can let you turn up the boost slightly.
 
given that everything else is constant(Octane, timing, static CR), adding water injection can let you turn up the boost slightly.

And give you more insurance on a long, boosted run - although I would opt for high octance fuel, like C16, instead . . .:beerchug:
 
And give you more insurance on a long, boosted run - although I would opt for high octance fuel, like C16, instead . . .:beerchug:

so if i wanted to run longer periods of time while in boost with pump gas the water injections *slightly makes it safer*?
 
what about E-85, that has a high octane rating... i think its rated at 105... if im correct.. and its waaay cheaper...
 
what about E-85, that has a high octane rating... i think its rated at 105... if im correct.. and its waaay cheaper...

Yes E-85 will allow you to run more boost. But you need a specific tune up for E-85, which will not allow you to go back to pump gas, and also keep in mind if on pump fuel you get 160 miles to a tank, on e-85 you will be closer to 100 miles per tank,

Richard
 
Yes E-85 will allow you to run more boost. But you need a specific tune up for E-85, which will not allow you to go back to pump gas, and also keep in mind if on pump fuel you get 160 miles to a tank, on e-85 you will be closer to 100 miles per tank,

Richard
depending on which ECU you can setup a switch for which fuel you run
I know we can do a switched map on our MS if we need to
and I think its possible with the stock ecu if you setup the switch right??
(similar to a NOS map in stock ecu)
the big problem with that is the stock injectors wont hang with E-85 that i do know
 
Probably would work ok with ecu editor map switching the std ecu , fit your big injectors and apply the injector size compensation, tune ,and you will be able to get it to run quite well on pump gas , then map switch and tune that fuel table to e85

For a streetbike that is fairly short and ~300hp potential i'm not sure i agree with everyone that you NEED pistons and rods , stock stuff is pretty good quality, and a poor tune will kill both std and aftermarket .

personally for my streetbike for 6 yrs have run spacer , studs,valve springs,clutch springs ,and ceramic coat the std pistons , and have once landspeed raced this combo without probs after hurting my racebike on the dyno
and now after replacing the gen 1 with a gen 2 have built the same and included valves to the list.

A bike built to use hp better, long wheelbase lowered, sticky tire and running higher boost, definitely do the better motor build .
depends what you want

and back to the original question, i like RCC stuff ,Richard has great quality at a very reasonable price with exceptional backup :beerchug:
 
Yes E-85 will allow you to run more boost. But you need a specific tune up for E-85, which will not allow you to go back to pump gas, and also keep in mind if on pump fuel you get 160 miles to a tank, on e-85 you will be closer to 100 miles per tank,

Richard

Its a race bike.. miles per gallon are not a concern any more... thats why i plan on buying a second hand street bike...
 
Replace all engine bearings, put studs, valve springs and turbo pistons in it. Get some H-beam Wossners if you are going near or over 300 rwhp.
Replace the cam chain! Do a valve job, and . . .

get yourself an RCC turbo kit! :laugh:

If your planning on holding that Turbo Busa wot on the highway for extended periods of time. :whistle:


guardian angel.jpg



Good luck an enjoy. :beerchug:



RCC gets my vote :thumbsup:

guardian angel.jpg
 
i had the same question when I was researching what turbo to go with. Ultimately I made a excel sheet comparing everything and including an itemized list of what the kits include. Side by side you will be VERY surprised at how similar some of the kits are. I even found that they have great discrepancies in price for the spacer plate, 50mm tial bov, and air to air intercoolers. I am sending this from my phone, but I can give you the excel sheet later if you are interested.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
Back
Top