90w in Steering Dampner how-to?

Bookmarked this mod will be doing it for sure.. Thanks for the hook up..
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(Wag @ Jan. 07 2007,20:42)
(TALYN @ Jan. 07 2007,18:04) Charlie, after working the dampner in the oil which position do you finish in to make sure you have the proper amount of 90W?
As I understand it, it doesn't matter. It's a closed loop system.

--Wag--
the rod should be extended...as in a full left turn.
hiem joint away from dampner body.


the way I do the mod...I have observed that oil is pushed out the hole, when going in the other direction.
 
(BusaCruise @ Jan. 07 2007,18:41)
(Wag @ Jan. 07 2007,20:42)
(TALYN @ Jan. 07 2007,18:04) Charlie, after working the dampner in the oil which position do you finish in to make sure you have the proper amount of 90W?
As I understand it, it doesn't matter.  It's a closed loop system.

--Wag--
the rod should be extended...as in a full left turn.
hiem joint away from dampner body.


the way I do the mod...I have observed that oil is pushed out the hole, when going in the other direction.
Thanks BC, that makes sense....
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THANK YOU! i have been trying to figure out the best way to do this mod. and the play by play with pic's really helped. i weigh about 260 and i am going to shoot for the 40w oil and get a feel for it.
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(CAT3 @ Jan. 07 2007,16:10)
(heavybusa @ Jan. 07 2007,12:24) Cat you are a regular bike mechanic now.
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Thanks Heavy...I'ma trying and learning more about these things everytime I get on here....
I'm right there with you
 
My "syringe" was nothing more than a small adapter from my Mini-mighty vac kit connected to the top of the 90w bottle (has the conical tip you cut to deisred orifice size). I cut the tip small, slid it inside the adapter, pushed that into the SD bleed hole, and squeezed, repeated a few times, while working the dampner thru its travel. Once I felt it give resistance the entire travel, I replaced the bleeder screw, and worked it full extension to both sides, feeling for any air pockets. None. Besides, if nothing else its finally clean!
 
Charlie, what does your friend charge to paint bikes? I know he is giving you a deal but what are his regular fees?
 
I'll ask, but I am sure its less than $250 total (mine was cost of paint $70). He's only here until end of Feb, then packing out for Alaska. There is a guy down here that paints lots of bikes, works at a local car dealer painting there as well, he charges $400 if you take the plastics to him. He also works with a guy who does custom airbrushing. I've both of their work and its pretty nice. I was going with them, but then my buddy offered to hook me up, so couldn't pass it up.
 
(BusaCruise @ Jan. 07 2007,19:41)
(Wag @ Jan. 07 2007,20:42)
(TALYN @ Jan. 07 2007,18:04) Charlie, after working the dampner in the oil which position do you finish in to make sure you have the proper amount of 90W?
As I understand it, it doesn't matter. It's a closed loop system.

--Wag--
the rod should be extended...as in a full left turn.
hiem joint away from dampner body.


the way I do the mod...I have observed that oil is pushed out the hole, when going in the other direction.
Also, after you install the screw, pump the piston a few times, then put it back into the oil bath, take the screw out and pump it a few more times before putting the screw back in and finishing it up.

--Wag--
 
Just did this mod while my forks were off to GP Suspension getting revalved and sprung.

Easy to do- used a syringe and small catheter.

Watch out you don't loose the small plastic washer attached to the torx drain screw when you start pumping the old oil out!
 
(cutter @ Jan. 10 2007,08:38) Just did this mod while my forks were off to GP Suspension getting revalved and sprung.

Easy to do- used a syringe and small catheter.

Watch out you don't loose the small plastic washer attached to the torx drain screw when you start pumping the old oil out!
what oil did you use literally and which weight did you go with? one thread said no more than 50w and others say 90w. thanks!
 
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