steering dampner mod

dewie

dewie

Registered
I'm trying to do the 80w oil change in the dampner. I figured the easiest way to fill it back up was submerge it in the oil vs the little funnel, and try to get all the air out. I have the dampner in a big Poweraide bottle and the fill whole is always in the oil. For two days air bubble have been coming out!
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I have been leaving it in the oil and about once a hour I would compress it and pull it back and there is always the same amount of air coming out. Does the whole dampner have to be in the oil or as long as the fill hole doesn't surface is that fine??

Sorry for the bad description, I can take a picture if that would help.
 
here is how I did mine.

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fill bucket with enough oil so the damper is submerged and then just pump that thing repeatedly until the air is out and you can feel the resistance is way more than with the stock oil. should be done in about 3minutes tops
 
Completely submerging is the easiest way. If you just have part of it in a poweraid bottle it won't work. Even if the hole is always in the fluid. (I know because I tried it that way for like 20 min. Had the same problem) You have to get a container big enough to submerge the whole thing and move the rod all the way from one end to the other. Move it all the way back and forth several times. You'll find that you can only get it about half full, then once you get to that point only push it till you start getting some resistance and then pull it back. Repeat this until you have the rod pulled all the way to one and if you push it it'll have resistance. Then put the plug back in and make sure it's full of oil. (make sure there is resistance all the way) If so, you're good to go!. If not, put it back in the oil and try again. But once I fully submerged mine and did what I just told you it filled right up! Hope this helps! There may be a better way, but this worked for me.
 
Thats how I did it as well (heavy's way) and it was quick and easy. Plus, you dont get gear oil all over everything. By the way, if you get that stuff on your floor, you'll be WEEKS getting rid of the smell.

Not to nitpick, either, but its "damper" and not "dampner"
 
when I did mine, I just cut the top off the oil bottle to make it big enough to stick the damper all the way it ( after emptying and cleaning the damper thoroughly first!) kept cycling it till it was full. ( about 3-5 minutes) poured the rest of the oil into a clean oil jug,( I usually keep one from oil changes since they make good funnels) marked the label, and called it good. worked like a champ.
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Well, I tried mine like everyone else said to and for some reason mine didn't work. It would only get half way full. I had to do it the way described in my other post in order to get it completely full. Don't really understand why, but that's the the way it was. It sounds like dewie is havin the same problem I was, so I figured I'd let him know how I did it.
 
thanks for the tips fella's
I'll get a bigger container and get the whole damper under. You would think something this easy would take 5 min. Not me!!
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Riding with a damper too stiff (Unless you are doing stoppies) can get you into trouble just as quickly as too little resistance. A misconception concerning steering dampers is the stiffer the better. I see lots of guys come to the track with their ohlins damper cranked all the way up. Not a good thing! IMO, I think 80/90W may be a little excessive and you may very well be more prone to a high side than with the stock unit?
 
Tufbusa @ Jan. 04 2008 said:
Riding with a damper too stiff (Unless you are doing stoppies) can get you into trouble just as quickly as too little resistance. A misconception concerning steering dampers is the stiffer the better. I see lots of guys come to the track with their ohlins damper cranked all the way up. Not a good thing! IMO, I think 80/90W may be a little excessive and you may very well be more prone to a high side than with the stock unit?
Click to expand...
Really? Is that because you cant steer the bike fast enough?
 
Tufbusa @ Jan. 04 2008 said:
Riding with a damper too stiff (Unless you are doing stoppies) can get you into trouble just as quickly as too little resistance. A misconception concerning steering dampers is the stiffer the better. I see lots of guys come to the track with their ohlins damper cranked all the way up. Not a good thing! IMO, I think 80/90W may be a little excessive and you may very well be more prone to a high side than with the stock unit?
Click to expand...
Yea, I got to thinkin a little more after I did it and am thinking of changin to 30w before I install it.
 
Personally, I would never use 80/90W oil in my damper. Of coure the best application is an adjustable damper. But if that's not an option, I would not use anything heavier than 30W myself.

There is a reason the little guys with no ass put hydraulic oil in the damper. As we all know, the reason for a damper is to keep the bike from oscillating into a tank slapper and ending up with both bike and rider airborn like an F14.

If your bike developes head shake, the faster the bars oscillate back and fourth, the faster the oil in the damper is forced through the orifice creating more and more resistance. The intent is to slow the movement down. The faster the oil is pushed through the orifice the more resistance it developes. If you increase the oil weight by ten fold or more as the steering ocillates it can eventually lock completely up and toss your ass to the asphalt!

What I have experienced is when a bike is picked up after a highside crash, checking the movement of the bars I've found their adjustable damper is usually adjusted way to stiff.

I'm not trying to tell anyone how to set their bike up, just a note of wisdom from my experience.
 
humm, I never looked at it that way Tufbusa. But it does make sense.
What is the weight of oil from the factory?? I've read 5w to 15w.
Anyone know for sure??
 
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