2008 Hayabusa stops running after long rides

[Busaboi03]

Hello gents!

I have a 2008 hayabusa (stock) which for some reason now every so often when I fill up the tank and take a 30-45 ride and stop for a quick break the bike does not want to start as if I had I dead battery. I am on my second battery as the first (new) caught on fire when trying to start the bike multiple times. Purchased a second battery and I notice that the negative pole gets hot and behind a to smoke but if I wait 15-20mins then, the bike starts without an issue. I am puzzled to what it could be but I’m predicting is related to the fuel pump. Any help, advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!!

 

[wreckwriter]

If it was the fuel pump it should crank. If if won't crank it's electrical.

 

[Jakegsxr11]

I think this is somewhat normal for a busa. The negative shouldn't smoke though. These things start hard when hot. Make sure the battery is good and get as much cca as you can fit.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Welcome to the forum @Busaboi03.

What is the history of the bike ownership and is there a documented record of maintenance? Was any maintenance performed recently? Was the bike touched at all?

If it draws excessive power due to loose or corroded connections, or a chaffed and shorted wire, such will generates massive heat. I would not ride this bike but begin thorough testing. As easy as it is and due to the symptoms, I would first do a short-circuit test. That will rule out the battery power dumping quickly from a short.

I am not a tech but it seems if wires have loosed to the fuel pump, that it could draw significantly more power. It is a high power device already. If it has not been touched it would be time for a thorough inspection.

Do you have a service manual and what are your skills?

 

[Busaboi03]

Thank you all for the feedback. So, as far as the history it is unknown prev owner def neglected the bike. I done basic maintenance and found and extremely dirty air filter, awful spark plugs and a descent oil filter. Also, I replaced the battery according to the prev owner battery was new and got it tested at 3 different places but one day I got stranded and as I tried to start the bike over and over the negative caught on fire-it melted the negative terminal completely. Luckily I was close to home so I pushed it home. Since then, I replaced the battery to the OEM recommend and was working fine until yesterday. I went on a 1.5 hr ride and as I stopped to get gas bike would not start again. Waiting 20+ minutes and it finally cranked but had to rev it as I hit the switch. I noticed that this usually happens when I fill up or when the tank is full. I traced the ground thinking maybe it was grounded wrong but couldn’t find a fault on the ground. The more I been reading some ppl w similar issues had mentioned issues w the vapor Lock but not sure if that’s the case for Gen2s. So, lead me to believe maybe a fuel pump issue as you can smell the gas as I try to get it started. I’m somewhat technical and do t mind getting my hands dirty. I have an electrical engineering background yet a bit diff. but alike, currents and voltage are somewhat the same. Open to any suggestions, would hate to spend $600 on a new pump for it not to fix the issue rather start at the low end and start replacing parts as needed. Thank you Gents!

 

[sixpack577]

If the battery got hot I would think that it was being overcharged, and the regulator/rectifier was bad.
There was a recall for them on early gen2's, and they do fail over time anyway.
It could also cause the bike not to start until things cool back down again.
The fuel pump was priming every time you turned the key or kill switch on/off, so you possibly could have flooded the engine while it was not firing, which caused it to be hard to start once spark had returned.
You may very well have a clogged fuel filter and/or failing pump as well, as that is not uncommon, but those symptoms tend to show up when riding, and when the engine is under a heavy load or at higher rpms.
I would start by having the battery tested, then check to see what it is reading in the bike, with the engine running, and then off.
There is no other way to test a regulator/rectifier.

 

[wreckwriter]

Please note that testing the battery doesn't amount to putting a multimeter on it and seeing 12v so it's OK. Properly testing a battery requires a gadget called a load tester. You can get one at an auto parts store or Amazon. This is the only sure way to test a battery.

I agree with above, I would swap out the rectifier too.

 

[LC4CARL]

the bike does not want to start as if I had I dead battery.

So the starter does not crank the motor? Does the headlight dim when you thumb the starter button?

 

[Busaboi03]

If the battery got hot I would think that it was being overcharged, and the regulator/rectifier was bad.
There was a recall for them on early gen2's, and they do fail over time anyway.
It could also cause the bike not to start until things cool back down again.
The fuel pump was priming every time you turned the key or kill switch on/off, so you possibly could have flooded the engine while it was not firing, which caused it to be hard to start once spark had returned.
You may very well have a clogged fuel filter and/or failing pump as well, as that is not uncommon, but those symptoms tend to show up when riding, and when the engine is under a heavy load or at higher rpms.
I would start by having the battery tested, then check to see what it is reading in the bike, with the engine running, and then off.
There is no other way to test a regulator/rectifier.

Thank you for the feedback will look into the recall and to see if Suzuki can replace it otherwise, it be out of pocket. Will start w these and see how it goes. Thank you all for the feedback and I’ll keep you posted.

 

[Busaboi03]

Please note that testing the battery doesn't amount to putting a multimeter on it and seeing 12v so it's OK. Properly testing a battery requires a gadget called a load tester. You can get one at an auto parts store or Amazon. This is the only sure way to test a battery.

I agree with above, I would swap out the rectifier too.

Thank you just looked into Amazon and def worth adding this gadget to the garage.

 

[wreckwriter]

Thank you just looked into Amazon and def worth adding this gadget to the garage.

Right up there with torque wrenches on the essential tools list. You can't properly test a battery (in any vehicle) without one.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Right up there with torque wrenches on the essential tools list. You can't properly test a battery (in any vehicle) without one.

I had a shop test my battery and it passed. Not too long after that it failed all at once. Also, a tech verified for me that load testing of motorsport batteries is unreliable.

I know that car part shop testers tend to not know the devices well but merely know to push a button. While it is possible the tech is wrong, he seemed to have experienced the exact same issues over a long period of time.

I am curious if there are devices with distinct modes for motorsport batteries.

At this point I do not think that we can rely on load testers to definitely exclude possible failures in motorsport batteries, and that is the one thing we need, to be assured we will not be stranded.

 

[wreckwriter]

I had a shop test my battery and it passed. Not too long after that it failed all at once. Also, a tech verified for me that load testing of motorsport batteries is unreliable.

I know that car part shop testers tend to not know the devices well but merely know to push a button. While it is possible the tech is wrong, he seemed to have experienced the exact same issues over a long period of time.

I am curious if there are devices with distinct modes for motorsport batteries.

At this point I do not think that we can rely on load testers to definitely exclude possible failures in motorsport batteries, and that is the one thing we need, to be assured we will not be stranded.

As far as I know it's the most reliable way to test a battery. Of course it can drop a cell after testing.

 

[VIPER]

Do NOT load test the battery on the bike. make sure you have it on a bench. I second the rectifier and potentially spark plugs if they aren't new. Make sure you have the correct plug, it makes a huge difference on these machines. i can not recall the proper plug but there are 2 recommended depending on outside average temps.

 

[Busaboi03]

Thank you for the feedback will look into the recall and to see if Suzuki can replace it otherwise, it be out of pocket. Will start w these and see how it goes. Thank you all for the feedback and I’ll keep you posted.

So I checked the local dealership and the rectifier was replaced last year right before I bought the bike. But noticed that the rectified was relocated near the bottom of the bike close to the exhaust is visible and at hands reach. Next is to test the battery… I wonder if this is related to the fuel pump or system. I tried starting it today and it struggled a bit until it turned into we at the 2nd try. But I’m telling you you can smell the gas as if was running too rich

 

[Busaboi03]

Do NOT load test the battery on the bike. make sure you have it on a bench. I second the rectifier and potentially spark plugs if they aren't new. Make sure you have the correct plug, it makes a huge difference on these machines. i can not recall the proper plug but there are 2 recommended depending on outside average temps.

Thank you for the comment and last year I research the “best” and compatible spark plugs so ended up buying some ngk 6289 cr9eia-9. I checked different places and most ppl recommend these batteries. I’m in TX (Houston) and couldn’t find anything negative about these plugs.

 

[Busaboi03]

Hey guys… so I did all the recommendations checked the rectifier readings came back good, checked w the Suzuki dealership and it was replaced by the prev owner in 2021, purchased a battery load tester and readings came back good (battery is brand new less than a month old). Started checking the cabling around the fuel pump and noticed that one of the wires on the connector for the fuel pump was coming out as I took it apart the cable came out of the plug all the way. I retighten the connection and sealed the bottom of the connector so the cable would stay in place. So far, I did a handful of cold starts, let the bike run until hot and try to restart yet no issues - starts on the 1st try! But still havent taken the bike out on the road to do an actual test drive so, once all this T-Storms clear I’ll give it a shot. Not sure what the issue truly is and hope the fuel pump plug had something to do w the issue. The negative terminal is no longer getting hot still hot but not hot enough for it to catch on fire. Any additional comments & feedback please feel free to share but thought I should share an update.

 

[Busaboi03]

Bad news guys so, back to square one! Bike still dying on me… I ordered a new Yausa Battery OEM recommended and debating on ordering a new rectifier but want to get your feedback on a reliable rectifier. If you check EBay or Amazon these things range from $25 to $300. Found an OEM replacement (new) for $85 plus shipping and also a rectifier plus the stator for $149. I looked at videos for the replacement of the stator which seems easy but a bit intimidating as I do not have a precision torque wrench and thanks to YouTube knowledge they mentioned that a torque wrench is needed. So plan a) starting w new OEM recommended battery, b) getting rectifier (asking you guys for a brand recommendation aftermarket or stick w OEM), c) anyone have any pointers when replacing the stator ?

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Next: Charge the battery. Even if it is damaged it should work for testing.

Do the short-circuit or leakage test from the service manual. With the bike off, take a multimeter, set it to the highest current rating (10 or 20 amps?), connect it between the negative battery cable and the negative battery terminal. Turn the amp rating down until a measurable reading shows. It is important to know exactly what the reading is, and it should be .003 A / 3 mA or less. If the current is higher, pull fuses until it plummets and that identifies a circuit with a short. Find out what circuit it is and troubleshoot the devices on it.

My opinion is to use OEM charging parts. Others can get the electrical part right but I question if even some of the leaders understand the punishment of heat, vibration, and corrosion that motorcycles generate. So many failed Rick's stators...

 

[Bumblebee]

Is the fuel pump cycling when you turn on the key?

Are you getting any codes or have the bike in dealership mode to pick up codes?

What is displayed in the LCD screen when you turn on the key and is the FI light flashing...

It could be a number of relays...one being the fuel pump relay or the starter relay....