2007: 1397 Project Bike: Question

[Professor]

I started with the YTS14s then went to the FBG battery. The best solution is the 24v. I could kick myself for not doing it sooner. It'll spin the engine right up with hardly cranking needed for the start.

Do you know if it will do say 50-75 restarts before charging the secondary battery? I'd like to avoid recharging it at the track more than anything.

 

[Commuta_Busa]

50 sounds like alot. ??? The best approach is to get that auto relay from schnitz that allows the aux battery to charge with the primary on the charging system. It only switches the voltage to 24v (series circuit) to the starter then auto magicaly switches things back to normal (parallel circuit) so that both batteries are being charged by the charging system.

I use a similar home made setup for LSR events and my voltage stays consistant for the entire weekend without a charger.

Since your runs are so short and doesn't give much time for a re-charge from the system. I would think eventualy both batteries would be down on voltage but probably after the 50 mark.

Do you know if it will do say 50-75 restarts before charging the secondary battery? I'd like to avoid recharging it at the track more than anything.

 

[Professor]

50 sounds like alot. ??? The best approach is to get that auto relay from schnitz that allows the aux battery to charge with the primary on the charging system. It only switches the voltage to 24v (series circuit) to the starter then auto magicaly switches things back to normal (parallel circuit) so that both batteries are being charged by the charging system.

I use a similar home made setup for LSR events and my voltage stays consistant for the entire weekend without a charger.

Since your runs are so short and doesn't give much time for a re-charge from the system. I would think eventualy both batteries would be down on voltage but probably after the 50 mark.

That would be the route I would want then.

Last year I made 20 passes in one event. I went to finals in both classes, 1 practice, 3 qualifications each class and 13 elimination rounds. Toward the end the times slips were showing between 5-10 minutes per pass.
Starting before each pass,
Stopping at the truck for fuel or whatever and going back to the lanes.
Starting from the lanes to go to the front or get heat back in it. (earlier passes)

So I think I could have easily started it 50 times that day but I was pushing it to the line at the end.

I've won a pass from a strong competitor because he couldn't get it to start. After a few minutes he waved me on. I don't want to be on the other end of that.

 

[Commuta_Busa]

If I were you esp in a competition I would want a charger so I'm always getting full voltage. In the least I would bring a fully charged spare battery incase there's an emergency. I would hate to hear about a semi old battery slowly loosing it's charge and failing. These bikes suck alot of electrical power at full throttle.

Just because you run a 24v start isn't going to increase the longevity of the primary battery by much. No matter what route you follow 50 starts with only a very very short time to recharge is going to take a toll on your battery. I hope you disconnect the headlight during racing.

 

[GPW]

I'm interested in how it works. My 1340 is 13.2:1. With a ytz14s (230CCA) it is marginal when hot, but it does spin it without kickback. Even restarts after runs in the stagging lanes it would start. I'd rather it spin just a bit faster. I was thinking about trying a FBG 380CCA. If not, I'll be in the 24 volt camp.

I can get 400CCA batteries as well I use them on the Turbo T-Rex projects I build. If you give me the largest demensions your battery craddle will hold, please be exact. Height, Width and Length and I will match you up just right.

I will set you guys up with a reasonably priced high quality battery that comes with a 2-Year warranty. I get them 10 at a time so pricing is pretty good.