2001 Restore

[Crow]

Hello

I’m in the process of restoring a stock 2001 Busa and wonder if I could pick some brains, please?

Background: been stood for about 3 years, wasn’t in great shape when it was garaged.

Issues:

1. gas escape from PAIR pipe, can hear it slapping horribly.
2. Front brakes binding
3. Coolant decided to dump its entire contents when I started the bike yesterday.
4. Gets hot quickly. Has never fully overheated, but I recall the fan kicking in after about 5 mins and temp rising to about 2/3 quickly.

Today I went out with the intention of replacing pipe 2 of the PAIR system. Having removed the fairing, you can see it’s corroded to hell and is basically about to disintegrate. The other pipes are also terribly rusty.

Removed radiator (took a nice bath in coolant) and noticed that it looks ina bad way. No leaks, but a lot of the fins are mashed, small stones embedded into it.

Question 1: it isn’t leaking, should I just try to straighten out the fins / what happens if one snaps? At what point would you replace a radiator?
1.1. Worth adding a second fan? I’ve seen a lot of people do this on YouTube.
2. The BIG question, really the one I came to ask, but I’m being sequential

I have a perfect spare PAIR system, bought it for £40 as a replacement for the damaged one. Was going to replace the single knackered pipe, but that felt shoddy so i decided to remove the whole one I unit.

Should I even bother replacing it, or is it better to just cap off the ports with blanking plates? Whenever I research the PAIR system, everyone says to just rip it out. But I do have a compete spare in pristine condition... bin it?

3. This one is just weird. Pulled my bike out of the garage on a sweltering hot day, went into house, came out 5 mins later and the rev counter clock lens had shattered. The whole thing is all cracked up.

Is it possible to replace the rev counter lens?

Today I was intending to just replace the PAIR, throw it back together and get her out for a blast, but when I got her stripped down, she just looked rusty, sad and neglected. Decided to ask a few questions and do this right, the bike deserves it

Many thanks in advance of any tips.

 

[sixpack577]

Front caliper seals, master cylinder and clutch mc rebuild kits, and now is a good time for stainless steel brake lines.
3 years sitting is enough for dry rot of anything rubber. Tires AND valve stems, put 90 degree stems in then, you'll thank yourself later.
Check pad condition, replace if you can.
Lots of info on fuel pumps, fuel filters, differences between years, how to repair, etc
Search for that here.
Old gas has likely gummed things up.
You said pounds for money, so I assume you're in Europe. I would check with MOT inspection laws if the Pair must be on there.
You may even need it to pass emissions.
I would hang on to it.
You can still buy and use block-off plates too, just keep the Pair valve just in case, don't throw it out.
Welcome to the org.

 

[sixpack577]

You can get a used lens, or entire cluster for the lens.
It is easily removed and replaced.

 

[ali123]

first things first.... compression and leak down test... make sure motor is good.... and food for thought.. just because there is no coolant in the oil doesn't mean that the bike has a good head gasket.. it could be blowing it out of the pipe..... compression and leakdown test.... then as long as motor and tranny are good.... HAVE AT IT....

 

[Crow]

Thanks for the replies.

Engine and transmission are good, in fact it’s not in bad condition for its year, just some rust and general neglect.

Decided to leave the PAIR out and just cap off the ports, but hit the inevitable problem: one of the studs sheared off leaving about 3MM poking out of the head.

I’m thinking, couldn’t I just block off the ports by filling them with instant gasket, then mounting the port covers over the top? I could work around that stud...

Oh, and how embarrassing is this? It’s a 1999 model, not 2001. I just noticed that, only had it about 10 years :|

 

[Crow]

You can get a used lens, or entire cluster for the lens.
It is easily removed and replaced.

Thanks man.

You are indeed correct

 

[Crow]

Is it possible to edit this thread title? I’m embarrassed that I’ve had a bike for a decade and didn’t know what year it was...

Anyway.

Went ahead and pulled the PAIR valve out, capped the ports, removed pipe to air box and capped that.

Took it out for a quick spin, opened it up and it quickly overheated: red light.

Let it cool, limped back.

I’m looking at my radiator (first time I’ve had it off) and it looks pretty beat up, some big mashed up sections.

Does anyone know if it’s expected to overheat after removal of PAIR until the engine is remapped, or does this sound unusual and I’m going to need a new rad?

Hope not, one of my front brake disks has cracked, going to have to replace the pair.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

...”Is it possible to edit this thread title? I’m embarrassed that I’ve had a bike for a decade and didn’t know what year it was”

Nope, we’re gonna tell everyone!

 

[Crow]

That’s alright, I’m already having to do the rounds with my mates,

“You know how I always told you that I have a 2001 Busa...?”

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

That’s alright, I’m already having to do the rounds with my mates,

“You know how I always told you that I have a 2001 Busa...?”

But now you’re the owner of a first year Hayabusa. My only claim is having the last Gen 1 LE, the 06. SuzyInc didn’t make one in 07...but it ain’t a first year Hayabusa. I do however have a first year Honda CBX Six though and it is currently selling for more than my Busa.

 

[Crow]

Yeah, I can’t say I’m unhappy with it being a G1, just embarrassed that I have only just realised after the best part of a decade

Thanks for your help so far, lads. Went and had a chat with our regional Hayabusa specialist who put me right on everything, free advice (could easily have robbed me: shout out to “John Warrington Motorcycles in Malton”)

1. Engine doesn’t need a remap after removing PAIR.
2. Current overheating issue was due to my not “burping” the radiator pipes after refitting it. Immediately cured the problem.
3. Really struggling to find new lenses for clocks, but that’s a minor gripe.
4. Bought a new set of front disks for £90 on eBay, £50 for pads. Happy enough with that.
4.1. Remembered I don’t have a paddock stand so I’m now sat with two axle stands, car jack and a plank of wood wondering how the hell im going to get the front wheel off!

All in all though, I’m fairly confident that a 1999 Busa will be back on the road by this weekend

Thanks again for all advice.

 

[Crow]

So I fucked it up a bit, but finally got her sorted.

Now purring like a content pussycat.

Basically I have learned basic motorcycle engunerring in a 1999 Hayabusa and managed to restore her back to full running condition after many years of abuse and 2 year’s standing with your help.

I’ve learned how the cooling system works, end to end. How the fueling system works, the ignition and electrical systems, and airflow.

End to end, bolt by bolt.

You’ve been a real help in this, many thanks and see you out on the roads.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

Good to hear! Feels good huh?

 

[BigBSBusa]

Good job getting her going again. Now we need pics to help us see all the work you have done.

 

[Crow]

I’m really sorry for they delay, due to site being blocked in the U.K. due to new EU digital data legislation.

Here she is, did 200+ miles on her on Sunday, just getting back into riding after a couple of years off the saddle.

My arse hurts. :o

 

[ky busa]

Nice busa