06 Hayabusa Clutch Chatter/Noise Loss of Power bike buckles on accel

busaboyn2o said:
Video doesn't work. But either way, like my first message said. Pull the clutch. You don't even have to drain the oil if u put it on the side stand.

Let us know how u make out bud.
Click to expand...
I tried to upload to my photo bucket but I'm getting an error. And a direct link is to big to upload. Ill try using Drop Box.
 
Remember the old carburetor four cyl bikes, when the carbs were out of sinc the clutch would sometimes rattle so much you were scared to ride it for fear that there was something "wrong" with the engine internals...?!! Personally I would say you are looking at a fuel problem, petrol is hyroscopic which means it attracts water particularly at sea level, if that bike stood for a long time like you say with about half a tank of fuel then you may have ingested some water into the system which may have damaged something like the injectors. Maybe you will be lucky with a full flush out, do yourself a favour and throw whatever is left in the tank away too.....
 
albatross said:
Remember the old carburetor four cyl bikes, when the carbs were out of sinc the clutch would sometimes rattle so much you were scared to ride it for fear that there was something "wrong" with the engine internals...?!! Personally I would say you are looking at a fuel problem, petrol is hyroscopic which means it attracts water particularly at sea level, if that bike stood for a long time like you say with about half a tank of fuel then you may have ingested some water into the system which may have damaged something like the injectors. Maybe you will be lucky with a full flush out, do yourself a favour and throw whatever is left in the tank away too.....
Click to expand...

I think carburetor 4 strokes were before my time, but I do agree with you that its a fuels system issue. My fuel filter was all filthy. I took my plugs out and they were wet but it didn't smell really like gas but more of a water and gas mix which smells really bad. I'm cleaning the injectors today and if that helps ill send them out to get professionally cleaned later.
 
Update. I took the bike out after inspecting the clutch, cleaning the fuel filter, cleaning the injectors, new plugs, TRE and new oil. Still the same issue. What i did notice is that the fast idle had no effect on cold start or when it was hot. The idle didn't go up with the fast idle. Isn't it supposed to? Also, when the bike does the little hiccups/bucking, the idle is very low and almost stalling. Only when the idle gets over 1500 rpm is when it starts to fully run properly.
 
Either bad TPS sensor or the adjustment on the idle cable is off.
First lift the tank and adjust the "choke" then fast idle cable, then set the acceleration cable, even a slight movement on the butterfly valves will stall/buckle the bike.
Make sure that the vacuum hose underneath the tank is hooked up and all other vacuum hoses as well.
 
Busarider007 said:
Either bad TPS sensor or the adjustment on the idle cable is off.
First lift the tank and adjust the "choke" then fast idle cable, then set the acceleration cable, even a slight movement on the butterfly valves will stall/buckle the bike.
Make sure that the vacuum hose underneath the tank is hooked up and all other vacuum hoses as well.
Click to expand...

I thought there was no choke? Only fast idle and idle. ??
 
Hey bro, just watched your videos, and everything looks fine.... EXCEPT... Your clutch plates. If you had it laid out in the video exactly how you had it in the basket that's a problem. You are supposed to have Drive Plates (Fibers) at both the Innermost and Outermost locations of the pack. In video 10/10, you had a driven plate (steel) as your innermost plate...

photo.jpg
 
busaboyn2o said:
Hey bro, just watched your videos, and everything looks fine.... EXCEPT... Your clutch plates. If you had it laid out in the video exactly how you had it in the basket that's a problem. You are supposed to have Drive Plates (Fibers) at both the Innermost and Outermost locations of the pack. In video 10/10, you had a driven plate (steel) as your innermost plate...
Click to expand...

Sorry for the confusion. That is correct, I had the fibers at both outer ends.
 
victor247 said:
Sorry for the confusion. That is correct, I had the fibers at both outer ends.
Click to expand...

That wear mark on that one steel plate you showed in that video looks to line up with the conical spring that goes between the inner most fiber plate and the basket. (Indicating that the steel plate was up against it while the bike was running). I would double check that buddy. I don't know of anything else that would cause that wear ring on a steel plate.
 
busaboyn2o said:
That wear mark on that one steel plate you showed in that video looks to line up with the conical spring that goes between the inner most fiber plate and the basket. (Indicating that the steel plate was up against it while the bike was running). I would double check that buddy. I don't know of anything else that would cause that wear ring on a steel plate.
Click to expand...

if I recall correctly, I might have had the steel plate first up against the basket but in mot 100% on that. I reinstalled the clutch after the video was taken and I put everything the way its pictured in the pic supplied in this thread and the bike still has the same issue. The steel plate I think got that ware there because the last fiber plate has a bigger inner diameter so the metal rings are able fit through and contact the steel plate. I think its a fuel issue because the bike has no power. I tried to do a burn out and it just dies. So it has no torque. fuel/air ration must be way off that when under load it dies or bogs.
 
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