today i was in traffic,..it was 94 degrees high humitiy, sitting at a couple red lites and my busa heat gauge started climing up,.....it usually is one neddle width below the halfway mark, but today it got about two neddle widths above the halfway mark, is this gonna be a problem for me , its a stock bike
06 busa
- Thread starter rocktober
- Start date
Yes in slow bumper to bumper traffic the Busa with little air flow across its radiator will over heat! Both my 04 and my 06. Two things you can do is wrap your pipes, this makes a world of differance, both in heat and it also lowers the noise level in the front of the bike. Second you can change out the plastic fan to the muzzy aluminum one.
Just thought of this try some "engine ice" it too helps with the cooling.
Hope some of this helps. Stay COOL.
Just thought of this try some "engine ice" it too helps with the cooling.
Hope some of this helps. Stay COOL.
Watch the gauge and ride on. If you are typically in heavy traffic then consider mods.
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You guys are all hitting bits and pieces but not hitting directly.
First, the Muzzy fan will cool 15% better than the stock fan and does not have the ability to melt!
Next - cooling; it has been discussed ad infinitum as to whether or not wrapping your pipes is a good idea or not and from everything that I have read from all of the sites I have been on throughout the years indicates that wrapping DOES NOT give your pipes the proper ability to cool. Air is supposed to move around the pipes. Who cares about quiet. You are on a sport bike for God's sakes.
Route your IAT sensor by re-locating it from the bottom of the airbox (where it reads hot air from the engine inside the airbox) to the left ramair tube! If you need instruction or can not find them, PM me.
Running no thermostat in hotter areas can be a good resolve, but not in others where weather is more inclement.
Engine Ice is good, but knowing the right percentage of how much "distilled water" ONLY (so as to NOT rust internals), glycol and coolant additive will be right. Usually, I run Prestone's orange 'DexCool' and distilled water. I mix 50/50 in a separate container and when filling my rad,, pour in the Engine Ice or Redline's 'Water Wetter' recommended amount,, then pour in 50/50 mix until full. Burp, run till fan comes on, cool, top off and repeat until done!
Water (again "DISTILLED ONLY") cools better so a larger percentages can work better in some areas depending on where you are geographically. However, glycol is definitely need for intermediate use.
A clip on no cut "jump"wire loom that can be had from any Home Depot, can "jump" connect from the two wires coming from the temperature sensor on the left side of the radiator to a remote manual switch that will let YOU decide when the fan turns on/off or not.
ANDddd,, you can re-wire and install a 'Honda Accord' (part number is 37760-P00-003) temperature sensor that has a lower temperature setting that will turn the fan on at lower temps. The wiring is a wee bit different, but if you are somewhat mechanically inclined you will do just fine.
Lastly, if after doing ALL of the above and you are still super worried or have a turbo bike and are running into inter-cooler clearance issues, you can install a 'Temperature Switch Relocator'. It moves the temp switch from the stock location to the hot side radiator hose. It makes the fan come on sooner since it sees coolant before it gets cooled by the radiator. The only thing is that you are not going to move the stock temp switch and I'll explain below.
Second fan! - Mount a Gixxer 600/750/1k OR even a Busa fan on the right side. It will fit. Wire up a relay for the second fan and run the ground wire for the relay through the temp switch in the relocator. The second temp switch will turn on your second fan without the need for a rocker switch when the temp rises. If the coolant temp continues to rise, the stock fan comes on (both fans on now) until the temp drops and then shuts off. No more forgetting to shut a fan off once you get up to speed. Run a Muzzy through that one too.
I hope that info dump helps a little.
You will be
First, the Muzzy fan will cool 15% better than the stock fan and does not have the ability to melt!
Next - cooling; it has been discussed ad infinitum as to whether or not wrapping your pipes is a good idea or not and from everything that I have read from all of the sites I have been on throughout the years indicates that wrapping DOES NOT give your pipes the proper ability to cool. Air is supposed to move around the pipes. Who cares about quiet. You are on a sport bike for God's sakes.
Route your IAT sensor by re-locating it from the bottom of the airbox (where it reads hot air from the engine inside the airbox) to the left ramair tube! If you need instruction or can not find them, PM me.
Running no thermostat in hotter areas can be a good resolve, but not in others where weather is more inclement.
Engine Ice is good, but knowing the right percentage of how much "distilled water" ONLY (so as to NOT rust internals), glycol and coolant additive will be right. Usually, I run Prestone's orange 'DexCool' and distilled water. I mix 50/50 in a separate container and when filling my rad,, pour in the Engine Ice or Redline's 'Water Wetter' recommended amount,, then pour in 50/50 mix until full. Burp, run till fan comes on, cool, top off and repeat until done!
Water (again "DISTILLED ONLY") cools better so a larger percentages can work better in some areas depending on where you are geographically. However, glycol is definitely need for intermediate use.
A clip on no cut "jump"wire loom that can be had from any Home Depot, can "jump" connect from the two wires coming from the temperature sensor on the left side of the radiator to a remote manual switch that will let YOU decide when the fan turns on/off or not.
ANDddd,, you can re-wire and install a 'Honda Accord' (part number is 37760-P00-003) temperature sensor that has a lower temperature setting that will turn the fan on at lower temps. The wiring is a wee bit different, but if you are somewhat mechanically inclined you will do just fine.
Lastly, if after doing ALL of the above and you are still super worried or have a turbo bike and are running into inter-cooler clearance issues, you can install a 'Temperature Switch Relocator'. It moves the temp switch from the stock location to the hot side radiator hose. It makes the fan come on sooner since it sees coolant before it gets cooled by the radiator. The only thing is that you are not going to move the stock temp switch and I'll explain below.
Second fan! - Mount a Gixxer 600/750/1k OR even a Busa fan on the right side. It will fit. Wire up a relay for the second fan and run the ground wire for the relay through the temp switch in the relocator. The second temp switch will turn on your second fan without the need for a rocker switch when the temp rises. If the coolant temp continues to rise, the stock fan comes on (both fans on now) until the temp drops and then shuts off. No more forgetting to shut a fan off once you get up to speed. Run a Muzzy through that one too.
I hope that info dump helps a little.
You will be
Liter or maybe a better pitch, it just moves more air.(slep_rock @ Jun. 27 2007,15:26)okay, what's the difference in the cooling fans, plastic stock vs aluminum on by muzzy?
When I changed out my exhaust system I noticed that the head pipes were very close to the radiator. So in stop and go traffic or when the bike isn't moving the heat rising off the pipes goes back through the radiator. I think that is why we see a very fast temperature rise in traffic.
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