Electrical add-ons simplified

[Shibumi]

I have already added wiring to my battery for my Widder electric vest, and now that I bought a TomTom GPS unit of course I need a way to plug an adapter into the bike for power. The GPS has up to two hours on battery, but for longer trips obviously that won't do. I remember seeing someone on the board do this already, so I went to my local O'Reilly Automotive and found a six-fuse block for about ten bucks. Uses standard blade-type ATC fuses in any amperage.




As you can see in the next picture, I used 10 gauge wire to run power from the positive post of the battery to the post on the bottom of the fuse block. On the left in the picture is a 1/4" bolt I ran 10 gauge wire to the negative post of the battery to use for ground connections.





Next picture shows it all buttoned up, ready for any new mods that require power- radar detector, grip heaters, etc.



Not difficult at all to do, and keeps my anal soul all warm and fuzzy not having wires stacked up on the battery and running all over getting in the way.

Highly recommended for anyone adding mods that require electrical power from the bike. I am no expert by any means, so any comments or suggestions are welcome.

 

[Don Hardcastle]

Nice

 

[Spike]

Man that is exactly what I have been thinking about doing. Good info, thanks!

 

[GSXcite]

Good post. Great way to fuse all those add ons.

 

[extreemachine]

Looks good!! Nice job!

 

[Shibumi]

Thanks guys!

Anyone know anything I could use to cover the spade connectors so there is no chance of shorting across it with something metal i.e. prop rod when pulling it out?

 

[psycobusa]

good job

 

[heavybusa]

nice work, not pretty but gets the job done.

 

[Red05]

(Shibumi @ Dec. 30 2006,22:40) Thanks guys!

Anyone know anything I could use to cover the spade connectors so there is no chance of shorting across it with something metal i.e. prop rod when pulling it out?

We have weather-proof spade connectors at work that have rubber boots on the back side, where the wire comes out, that seals and insulates the connection. You would have to re-crimp but if you want I can drop some in the mail to you. Good idea and nice job

 

[nitrousjunkie]

 

[BusaCruise]

that's TOO DAMN FUNNY !!!!!


I just spent the last two days with my own little project back there!

I stared with this ... and then went onward!

this block look familiar? lol plus I added a terminal strip to the back side of it for a common ground point.

a MUCH cleaner battery area!!!

and less cluttered dash.

 

[Rhythm]

Hey Shibumi, thats a very creative application you've done there

. Personall speaking from experience I would suggest splicing into your main fuse wire located on the bottom side of the stock fuse block. The stock battery isn't made for discharging and recharing (like a deep cycel battery). Let the generator (not alternator like most think) do the work supplying power to your add on's verse's the battery. Granted, with no choice anything below 2k and the battery will be powering all add on's.


Keep your knees in the breeze.
Rhythm

 

[Rhythm]

Oh yeah, whichever way you decide to finalize where you tap into as a pwr source. I would suggest turning off you're heated equipment while at idle.

 

[johnnycrash]

I have been planning on doing something like this before spring.   I've got wiring for ATRE, nitrous, nitrous pressure guage, air shifter, various relays, bottle heater and speedohealer all jammed in there.  Underneath my seat looks like a big old bowl of colored spaghetti.

shibumi and Busa cruise just gave me my next project - great thread.  Great writeups and pics.  Thanks!

 

[thepushercg]

nice work on both bikes with the wiring.

 

[Shibumi]

Cruise that is funny! Great minds, eh?

By the date stamp on your pics you get the credit though, I didn't start until the 28th!

My task was easier, I didn't have to pull the tail section off like you did. Looks like you recessed the lighter adapter into the side of the trunk area? If so, cool idea.

A lot of accessories have lighter adapters, any reason not to cut it off and wire it to a fused connection, other than ones with reduced voltage? I can just see 3-4 of those receptacles lying around back there, kinda messy.

Nice job labeling and wire-tying everything together! Where did you get the labels?

Nice to see other anal types in action! After I got married, the first time my wife and I bought groceries we were at home putting them up, and I was putting cans in rows on the shelf and facing the labels all forward. I turned around and saw her staring at me with eyes as big around as my exhausts. That was when I knew I was in for an interesting relationship!

 

[Shibumi]

(Red05 @ Dec. 30 2006,23:54)

(Shibumi @ Dec. 30 2006,22:40) Thanks guys!

Anyone know anything I could use to cover the spade connectors so there is no chance of shorting across it with something metal i.e. prop rod when pulling it out?

We have weather-proof spade connectors at work that have rubber boots on the back side, where the wire comes out, that seals and insulates the connection. You would have to re-crimp but if you want I can drop some in the mail to you. Good idea and nice job

Thanks for the kind offer Red, I saw those at the parts store. I'm going to look further to see what I can come up with. I've seen something... little rubber tips... saw in a catalog to repair dishwasher racks that the rubber has worn off... I'll get back on that.

 

[DNGrumpy]

I need to do this... I tapped the pigtail up front by the right blinker for the power for my GPS and have my COM hooked to the battery, I bought the right parts months ago and have just been lazy...

 

[Shibumi]

Hey Cruise, do you work off the "don't need no stinking speedometer" philosophy, or are these not in their final placement?

 

[rockadaous]

good one. I'll be sure to refer back when I start my LED project