TallTom
Registered
For some reason my thick head isn't coming up with the right work around on this. My Goldwing has aftermarket floodlights. Many times they simply plug into the factory harness easy peasy. In this case they aren't. They are wired on a separate harness provided by a known and reputable Goldwing aftermarket co. When I bought the bike the floods didn't work. I didn't think it would be a big deal to make them work again.
Now I'm getting into it. The fuse (15A) was blown. And the socket melted.
I have added a fuse block for other wiring in of upgrades. All works fine there. Now to the issue I'm having.
As it set in the failed condition as wired when I got it, it had both -12V lines and the relay negative trigger wired straight to battery negative. The + side had both bulbs going to one side of relay and the relay trigger switched that straight to a fused 12V line on Battery+.
The white trigger runs up to the foglight switch. That switch line was butt spliced into the Brn/Blu wire of the switch. That switch interrupts the hot side of the 4 pin factory harness. Those are the only 2 wired leads on that 4 pin connector.
I changed the fuse and verified the light switches on and off as they were wired to. My intent was to eliminate that relay and get the wiring away from what I assumed was water that got in there. Move the circuit up to the fuse block controlled by the new relay.
Now the problem. I can wire the + and - direct and the lights turn on. They stay on. So I know I have a constant 12V available and working off the fuse block.
I'm trying to trigger them on and off via the switch. That's the part that's getting me. That switch was the old relay energize source. It energized the relay and 12V was routed through the relay contacts. I can't figure out how to switch interrupt the 12V power. I'm sure it's going to be a simple thing. But my head just isn't getting it. All I manage to do is blow fuses. So I know I'm crossing + & - somehow. But I spent about 2 hours checking and rechecking. When I mock this up with a separate battery I can add in the relay again, hear it energize and the lights turn on. But now the switch has no effect. Now once the relay energizes, the only way they turn off, is by power disconnect from the battery. Switch does nothing.
Again I'm purposely trying to delete the old relay. And switch this circuit off the fuse block.
I'm also reminding myself that the initial failure seen was not only a blown fuse but a melted socket. So I'm considering that the relay may be contact welded. Meaning it could have been wired wrong from day one. And they just decided to not use the lights. There is no wiring diagram. I had to reverse my way through this. It could have effed up the hot side from day one. Unfortunately it's an oddball size relay so I can't just pop in another to assist my troubleshooting.
Again the intent is to eliminate it completely. I have a relay energizing the fuse block and all it's circuits.
I'm tired. Called it a day and will get back into it again with a fresh outlook. Wouldn't mind some spark chasers chiming in on this with me.
Now I'm getting into it. The fuse (15A) was blown. And the socket melted.
I have added a fuse block for other wiring in of upgrades. All works fine there. Now to the issue I'm having.
As it set in the failed condition as wired when I got it, it had both -12V lines and the relay negative trigger wired straight to battery negative. The + side had both bulbs going to one side of relay and the relay trigger switched that straight to a fused 12V line on Battery+.
The white trigger runs up to the foglight switch. That switch line was butt spliced into the Brn/Blu wire of the switch. That switch interrupts the hot side of the 4 pin factory harness. Those are the only 2 wired leads on that 4 pin connector.
I changed the fuse and verified the light switches on and off as they were wired to. My intent was to eliminate that relay and get the wiring away from what I assumed was water that got in there. Move the circuit up to the fuse block controlled by the new relay.
Now the problem. I can wire the + and - direct and the lights turn on. They stay on. So I know I have a constant 12V available and working off the fuse block.
I'm trying to trigger them on and off via the switch. That's the part that's getting me. That switch was the old relay energize source. It energized the relay and 12V was routed through the relay contacts. I can't figure out how to switch interrupt the 12V power. I'm sure it's going to be a simple thing. But my head just isn't getting it. All I manage to do is blow fuses. So I know I'm crossing + & - somehow. But I spent about 2 hours checking and rechecking. When I mock this up with a separate battery I can add in the relay again, hear it energize and the lights turn on. But now the switch has no effect. Now once the relay energizes, the only way they turn off, is by power disconnect from the battery. Switch does nothing.
Again I'm purposely trying to delete the old relay. And switch this circuit off the fuse block.
I'm also reminding myself that the initial failure seen was not only a blown fuse but a melted socket. So I'm considering that the relay may be contact welded. Meaning it could have been wired wrong from day one. And they just decided to not use the lights. There is no wiring diagram. I had to reverse my way through this. It could have effed up the hot side from day one. Unfortunately it's an oddball size relay so I can't just pop in another to assist my troubleshooting.
Again the intent is to eliminate it completely. I have a relay energizing the fuse block and all it's circuits.
I'm tired. Called it a day and will get back into it again with a fresh outlook. Wouldn't mind some spark chasers chiming in on this with me.
