Electrical Work and PMR Install

RussellJ

Rick Rollin'
Registered
Alright so finally got everything and did all my electrical work this weekend. Came out pretty nice, I only blew one fuse :laugh: I actually blew my turn signal fuse rewiring my License plate lights.

It all fits very neatly inside that little section, nothing pokes out and its all in firm. I have it epoxied to the plastic piece. Looked kind of cramped but its about as neat as I could get it. I got the marine fuse block off ebay and the 60A relays from radioshack. One relay works my headlight because I have it on a manual switch. Second relay is for my radiator fan which will be fans in the future. The fans will still also come on as they always have when the temp switch kicks them on, this is just if I hit traffic I can just flip them on

The PMR switch isnt as clean as Omar's because I cant figure out what to put as backing, And i used bigger wire which probably wasn't a good idea but I did with what I had. I have a piece of foam I may be able to put in there that will hide the wires but you have to be looking for them to see them anyways. The only angle you can see them is where I took the picture.

The spade connectors that come with the PMR switches are impossible to use by the way for anyone that has not yet or plans on getting them. I soldered mine just as Omar did which I just now confirmed with Jack is the only way to do it. For those that do not know how to solder or have never soldered, do not be discouraged. Basic soldering such as this is very easy and can be accomplished with an instructional video via youtube and a trip radioshak to for soldering equipment that can be had for pretty cheap. I suggest anyone who likes DIY things, to learn to solder because it is very useful and a lot more efficient way to connect wires.

Oh and I included a pic of the "garage" :thumbsup: I try to keep it cleaned up inside

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You only need to add relays if you add accessories, adding driving lights for example, otherwise just switch the OEM relays that are already there. Saves the clutter of wire runs for no reason and uses the OEM fusing. The exception might be adding a second fan depending on the current draw. If the OEM relay were under rated for running both fans then replace it with a higher rated one in the stock location. Then piggyback off the normally open solenoid terminal to the new fan so as not to overload the OEM harness to the stock fan. May not need to do that either depending on the OEM wire size. In that case you could piggyback off the hot terminal on the stock fan. The benefit of a relay is that you don't need to run a large gauge wire to the switches. 22 or 24 should be plenty from the switch to the relay.

You might consider leaving the OEM fan as is, unswitched and connected to the temp sensor and running your add on fan to the new relay and only switch it. That way you could cycle on the new fan at will and the original will cycle on after that if the temp still gets too high.
 
You only need to add relays if you add accessories, adding driving lights for example, otherwise just switch the OEM relays that are already there. Saves the clutter of wire runs for no reason and uses the OEM fusing. The exception might be adding a second fan depending on the current draw. If the OEM relay were under rated for running both fans then replace it with a higher rated one in the stock location. Then piggyback off the normally open solenoid terminal to the new fan so as not to overload the OEM harness to the stock fan. May not need to do that either depending on the OEM wire size. In that case you could piggyback off the hot terminal on the stock fan. The benefit of a relay is that you don't need to run a large gauge wire to the switches. 22 or 24 should be plenty from the switch to the relay.

You might consider leaving the OEM fan as is, unswitched and connected to the temp sensor and running your add on fan to the new relay and only switch it. That way you could cycle on the new fan at will and the original will cycle on after that if the temp still gets too high.

I dont believe there is an oem relay for the headlight?
 
Looks good so far. Can you reach the fuses to replace them if you blow one?
 
Looks good, Russell!

We need to talk with Jack to see if they've ever considered making the double or triple barswitch for the brake side. I'd love to have another triple barswitch on the right... I may just get the single for now, but a triple would be much better!
 
Looks good so far. Can you reach the fuses to replace them if you blow one?

Looks like his fuse block is in the same place as mine...the only easy way to reach the fuses is to pull the tail. Not as quick as pulling the left inner, but not too bad...
 
Looks good man, that is a good location for the fuse block.

How is the trailer floor holding up now that you have had it for a short while?
 
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