Oil Drain Plug
- Thread starter Busa1166
- Start date
have always went by feel and snug it up, until i started seeing a few strip them and realized how easy it is to strip, so recently i picked up a nice 3/8" craftsman microtorque in/lb wrench and have torqued it the last few times. Will be interesting to see who has stripped theirs, and if anybody actually stripped it with the torque wrench
Guess it's good to be skinny and weak like me?
Never used a torque wrench on any of the dozen or so bikes I've owned and never stripped it. It only needs to be snug and stop oil from leaking !
Cinch it up , start it up , check it and turn it off, let it set for a spell and recheck . No oil no problem , easy .
Never used a torque wrench on any of the dozen or so bikes I've owned and never stripped it. It only needs to be snug and stop oil from leaking !
Cinch it up , start it up , check it and turn it off, let it set for a spell and recheck . No oil no problem , easy .
Funny you would bring this up now. I just had my oil pan replaced about a month ago for this. Tried tapping it out but the tap won't go all the way through. I was too busy to replace it myself so I took it to the dealer. I have never used a torque wrench. I thought the price was a bit much. What do you guys think?
ouch! I do not think i spent more than $100 for the IN-LB torque wrench I bought from SEARS.
Maybe because hemi just had a similar thread recently:
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/140508-torque-not-torque.htmlsmokeshow81
Registered
finger tight with a 1/4 turn? is there a nylon washer?
Reverendron
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I don't know about you but I like too get kiss after I get screwed.
aussiesuzukirider
Never Forgotten
Stripped the thread on mine and replaced it with a helicoil. Always replace the crush washer on the sump plug as it absorbs the torque pressure if you don't replace it you will strip it after a couple of oil changes.
Yikes! But hey, ya gotta get it fixed...
280.00 Not really sure if thats a lot or not. If you can change it out without removing or moving the engine, I would have made the time to do it
Labor for techs I think is at 90- 110 an hr.
ouch! I do not think i spent more than $100 for the IN-LB torque wrench I bought from SEARS.
Maybe because hemi just had a similar thread recently:
yes but no poll
I tighten by feel, never stripped one, nor do I replace the washer.
I guess I must be a Jedi
Never stripped the plug but stripped and cracked the oil pan.
If I did not already own a torque wrench from some other engine work I was doing years ago, I would probably just go by feeling. Since the torque wrench is there though, I may as well use it and be sure. I actually torque to 14 lbs, not 15 lbs as the service manual says.
Never had a problem with leaks or the thought that the bolt was stripping the pan.
Never had a problem with leaks or the thought that the bolt was stripping the pan.
If I was going to use a torque wrench on a drain plug, (and I'm not), I would use an inch/pound wrench. Taking a 10 to 150 pound 1/2 drive, torque wrench and using it at 10 - 15 pound range is not a great idea, especially when seating a steel plug in an aluminum chassis.
I change the oil more than most. Sometimes it's 2-3 times a month. Rather than wear the aluminum threads out and end up stripping the threads I choose a torque setting of 14 NM rather than the recommended 23 NM then safety wire the plug. Works very well and I never worry about the plug backing out and at 14 NM it doesn't leak. I never change the compression washer either but I always have a new one on hand just in case.
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