Drain Plugs and Drain plug gaskets

OB_KawAbuser

Registered
HAve you ever noticed the sh*t that collcts at the end of a drain plug and how the gaskets get crushed just so!

How tight do you tighen your drain plug?

How often do you change your oil?

Always a new filter or do you skip every other change to save a buck on filters?

Ever send your oil out for analysis?

Read any good oil articles on the web or in print?

Have you stripped out the drain plug threads?

Any good aftermarket drainplugs?

The drain plug as a heat sink and remote heat removal systems?
 
That crap on the end of the drain plug is metal particles.There is a magnet on the end of the drain plug.Some racers go so far as to epoxy magnets inside the oil pan.There is a magnetic adapter that screws in behind the oil filter that does this also.
 
Kaw, consumer reports did a test between synthetic and non. N.Y.C.taxi cabs,tore engines down checked clearences and so forth, ran cars with both kinds of oils changed some at 3000 and some at 7500. I don't know how many miles they put on but they then tore them back down and remeasured them. NO MEASURABLE DIFFERENCE. I use mobile1 in my truck and golden-spectro in my bikes, change bikes every 1000-1500 with filter.
 
how about after 12000 ?and they don't have transmission gears to chop up those polymer strands or the heat factor which i see as its greatest advan.over petrol.oils?why not run synthetic during your breakin?
 
this is a valid point and a flamable subject
not only trans gears also clutches and the high rpms do not know many cars that run at 8k all day.
I change mine with new filter every 1,000-1,500 miles.Use Golden Spetroil 10w40wt.
Ok the asbestos suit on fire away!
 
I'M WITH YOU GUYS ALL THE WAY THERE NOT THE SAME AND I USED TO USE REDLINE UNTIL IT WENT OVER $8/QT JUST RELATING SOMETHING I READ. IWON SOME ROYAL PURPLE LAST YEAR IN DAYTONA WHAT REPUTATION DOES THAT CARRY?
 
I don't think you'll find the air inside your airbox sitting around long enough for the packs, or to much of anything else, to absorb any moisture. Someone much smarter than me will have to tell you how to dry out the incoming air. Jack
 
I don't think you'll find the air inside your airbox sitting around long enough for the packs, or to much of anything else, to absorb any moisture. Someone much smarter than me will have to tell you how to dry out the incoming air. Maybe cool it! Jack
 
Dyno your bike first before doing any mods.If you want you can seal the airbox between the inlet and the frame.Nothing more than some type of rubber tube like a bicycle innner tube will work,.Just make sure it's tight.It works well
 
Change oil 3000 miles. Filter too. I use Golden Spectro and either stock or FRAM filter.
USE A TORQUE WRENCH ON THE DRAIN PLUG!! Overtightening can cause not only stripping of the threads, but cracking of the pan as well. 14 - 16 ft./lb NO MORE!!!
Haven't replaced the drain plug gasket yet. 3 changes so far.
 
I honestly started this thread as a Joke of sorts, While asking for input from you guys on a new airbox, I had only limited replies.

While other topics like "spark plugs" will see 80+ posts I figured I would start with the "drain plug" and work up from there and see what happens.

(MOTORHEAD and CHEESE you guys are the Best)

While this thread sat for a day or so, soon enough it is picking up speed with some vitaility and worthiness.

Any more though on the airbox wish list!
 
I am new to this we have very humid weather down here.How can I make my air box get drier air?
should I put some dessicant packs in the air box?
this would absorb mositure right?
What about A tube running from the front right to the throttle bodies?
 
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