Changing Brake Lines - Need Advice

[PaLVBusa]

Changing out OEM brake lines for SS lines I got from Pashnit. I have never changed out brake lines and want any suggestions you guys have to make this a smooth transition.

3 biggest questions are:

1) Im not seeing a master cylinder bleeder, am i just missing it or is there another way to bleed the MC?
2)Do I need to tighty-tie the lines to prevent them from flapping around or can I reuse factory holders/clips/what ever it is thats holding the old one on?
3) Do I (or should I for that matter) need to remove any fairings to change out the front line?

Thank you guys in advance.

[Big E]

No bleeder valve on the stock master.

You should not need any zip ties.

Nah, just place a towel underneath the master cylinder or surround the area around the master with a towel.

Only thing I would remove is the windshield. Makes refilling the master easier.

[lil charlie]

I will be watching this thread. I just ordered lines from tim too.

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[PaLVBusa]

:bump:

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[sixpack577]

No bleeder valve on the stock master.

You should not need any zip ties.

Nah, just place a towel underneath the master cylinder or surround the area around the master with a towel.

Only thing I would remove is the windshield. Makes refilling the master easier.

This, and do you have a mighty vac to pull the fluid, or a syringe to push it?
If you just plan on filling the master cylinder, pumping the lever, and opening/closing the bleeder...you're in for a long day. That way takes a very long time to fill the lines, and even longer to try and bleed all the air out.
If you pull fluid down the lines with a vac or push it up them with a syringe you'll fill the lines very quickly and eliminate most of the air before you even bleed them.

[PaLVBusa]

I have a mity-vac and found these on youtube with really good reviews.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

[skydivr]

That mity-vac will help you greatly.

Also, Galfer has some good videos too.

One thing that is very important that everyone seems to miss. When you bleed by squeezing the brake while loosening the valve at the bottom to bleed, DO NOT LET UP ON THE BRAKE UNTIL AFTER YOU TIGHTEN BACK UP THE VALVE. I've seen instructions where that was not very clear and if you don't to that, you are just sucking air back up into the lines. Charlie, YOU remember this, don't you?

[sixpack577]

That mity-vac will help you greatly.

Also, Galfer has some good videos too.

One thing that is very important that everyone seems to miss. When you bleed by squeezing the brake while loosening the valve at the bottom to bleed, DO NOT LET UP ON THE BRAKE UNTIL AFTER YOU TIGHTEN BACK UP THE VALVE. I've seen instructions where that was not very clear and if you don't to that, you are just sucking air back up into the lines. Charlie, YOU remember this, don't you?

Sorry, I thought that was understood.

[Twist The Throttle]

Get a Mityvac it's a great tool to have to bleed your brakes/fill the lines.

1. The bleeder on the front brakes are at the calipers (both sides)
If you're doing rear brake, there are two on caliper. One inside and one out.
2. No tie-tie's required as said by Big E
3. No need to pull fairings.

Things I do..

Fronts:

Take the seat off
Lift the tank and support.
Turn the handlebars to get the phillips screwdriver over screws. Won't need to pull off
windshield.
Get a syringe and pull fluid out of master cylinder.

Remove lines at calipers first to let fluid drain down into bottle. Then bag the banjo's so you don't drip on anything. Remove bolt at top and bag.

Rear Lines..

You need to remove the tail section to get to rear fluid bottle.
Lift tabs holding rear brake line. I used long thin screw driver, went under the clip and lifted. I hate marring my bike.

This part is purely optional. Remove right side footpeg bracket. If you have big hands or find it hard to get to the banjo behind the bracket. This can messy due to working room.

Bleed fronts and rears. You're trying to put fluid into the lines. You want to bleed out the big pockets of air. Now a trick that I was taught and it works. Squeeze the brake lever and secure it with a rubberband or wire for 24 hrs. Try and hold down your rear brake as well for the same amount of time.

Finally take some soapy water and go over areas of bike that MAY have come in contact with fluid.

Hope this helps..

[skydivr]

Sorry, I thought that was understood.

Sometimes you just gotta state the obvious, but I've seen that issue more than once when someone is doing that the first time. I'm fortunate I had some members here help me thru it too.

[PaLVBusa]

Awesome advice guys.. Thank you.

[mitchluv1]

can we get Twist the Throttle post pinned cause i'll be changing my line soon

[lonner]

couple more tips that aren't mentioned

firstly bleed left first

bleed by undoing nipple 1/4 turn pull lever to bar and hold then nip up bleeder .

repeat until fluid is clear of air in the bleed pipe.

do the right caliper in the same fashion .

turn bars left so mc is pointing downwards and tickle the lever a few mm as this bleeds the mc (do this with the fluid level half full so you dont spill it)

if you have a lot of travel after changing lines and a solid lever but 30mm travel undo the calliper bolts and slide the calliper back so the pads are just touching the disc by 5mm then pull the lever a couple of times as this will remove the slack in the lever.

push the calliper back on and re torque bolts.

repeat on other side and you should have solid lever if all air is out.

tokico 6pots are troublesome but the above works trust me lol ive done many