Working on a friends "rollin turd" pics w/question

[rubbersidedown]

Bro has a Toyota (ever notice that "a Toyota" spelled backwards is " a toyota") anyways 4x4 truck. He refuses to let the thing die a peaceful death with at least some dignity intacted. Anyhoo...I dove into the brakes. May be the worst shi7 sandwich I have ever got to not enjoy. Not one thing came apart without breaking. Ever connection. So far new shoes,wheel cylinders,lines and hoses.Just about everything is obsolete. The question...it has one of those valves which applies more breaking force to the rear wheels as more payload is put in the box. No chance of replacing this archaic part. So,my plan is to take it out of the equation.I think I can get away with a simple "T" in place of the valve. 2 lines come down the frame,enter the valve,1 line comes off to a t,then gets split to each rear wheel cylinder.The only downfall will be,in theory will be less braking force with a heavy load.
I thought about substituting a valve in from another application but can't recall this "technology" being used on anything I have ever worked on. Thoughts/idea's ? Its kind of cool,pretty low tech and cant recall this type of gizmo on any other vehicle,but then,I dont get out much. I'm fabbing all the lines myself and using new hoses that are the right length,etc. Some of the line between the front and rear is ok and a PITA to get at,so I have joined the two with connector blocks.
Its ugly under there...
He removed the fuel tank...broke every mounting bolt leaving us with snapped off bolts in a box frame which I cant get to the inside of. I may have to cut small holes in the frame to put a new nut inside. There wont be enuff usable material left after drilling to cut new threads insert heli-coil or nuttin. I was thinking I may cut out the rotten and slip in a piece of metal with a nut welded to it. Grrrr.

 

[Red05]

I'd go with your idea of bypassing the valve and see how it stops. If it locks the rear wheels too easily, GM cars used an inline proportioning valve, one for each rear line, that might work. I can check tomorrow what's still available. I'd say by the look of that undercarriage, I wouldn't take on too heavy a payload anyway!

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Bro has a Toyota (ever notice that "a Toyota" spelled backwards is " a toyota") anyways 4x4 truck. He refuses to let the thing die a peaceful death with at least some dignity intacted. Anyhoo...I dove into the brakes. May be the worst shi7 sandwich I have ever got to not enjoy. Not one thing came apart without breaking. Ever connection. So far new shoes,wheel cylinders,lines and hoses.Just about everything is obsolete. The question...it has one of those valves which applies more breaking force to the rear wheels as more payload is put in the box. No chance of replacing this archaic part. So,my plan is to take it out of the equation.I think I can get away with a simple "T" in place of the valve. 2 lines come down the frame,enter the valve,1 line comes off to a t,then gets split to each rear wheel cylinder.The only downfall will be,in theory will be less braking force with a heavy load.
I thought about substituting a valve in from another application but can't recall this "technology" being used on anything I have ever worked on. Thoughts/idea's ? Its kind of cool,pretty low tech and cant recall this type of gizmo on any other vehicle,but then,I dont get out much. I'm fabbing all the lines myself and using new hoses that are the right length,etc. Some of the line between the front and rear is ok and a PITA to get at,so I have joined the two with connector blocks.
Its ugly under there...
He removed the fuel tank...broke every mounting bolt leaving us with snapped off bolts in a box frame which I cant get to the inside of. I may have to cut small holes in the frame to put a new nut inside. There wont be enuff usable material left after drilling to cut new threads insert heli-coil or nuttin. I was thinking I may cut out the rotten and slip in a piece of metal with a nut welded to it. Grrrr.

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Hi. I had a 1977 Toyota Pickup, it had 457,xxx miles on it. The frame broke 7 times I just keep welding it back togather.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Hi. I had a 1977 Toyota Pickup, it had 457,xxx miles on it. The frame broke 7 times I just keep welding it back togather.

Nice work Mike!
Here in NZ we call that “no.8 wire technology” lmao!

The Genesis of Kiwi Ingenuity - 'Number Eight Wire'

Many of you reading this would have heard of 'Number Eight Wire'. A common phrase as familiar as the old kiwi favourite, pavlova.

www.motovated.co.nz

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Nice work Mike!
Here in NZ we call that “no.8 wire technology” lmao!

The Genesis of Kiwi Ingenuity - 'Number Eight Wire'

Many of you reading this would have heard of 'Number Eight Wire'. A common phrase as familiar as the old kiwi favourite, pavlova.

www.motovated.co.nz

HI. I bought the truck in 1984 I had rusted out been fixed, and rusted out when I bought it. It had 94,xxx miles when I got it. It was in my friends junkyard, it was roled over. In all years I had it I only replaced 3 crankshaft seals and 1 A frame bush. At that time I replaced the front shocks. I went through a lot of tires [all bough used] I ran a speed shop for cars. I used a lot of brake parts the front pads were $5.00 my cost. It had the 7 ft bed I could put in 4 SB chevys and ! bb chevy It would drop 1 inch and ride a hole lot better. I loved that truck. Coming back from a race with 2 bikes and 3 people I got 44MPG. I wish I could find another one.

 

[rubbersidedown]

I'd go with your idea of bypassing the valve and see how it stops. If it locks the rear wheels too easily, GM cars used an inline proportioning valve, one for each rear line, that might work. I can check tomorrow what's still available. I'd say by the look of that undercarriage, I wouldn't take on too heavy a payload anyway!

Thanks Bro. I'm right up to the point of hooking to a proportioning valve of some sort.Lines are done.Under the drums are done. New fuel line and filter. Normally a 5 minute job for a filter right.Nope.Rotten fittings etc,90 minutes. Tackle the tank,lines,pump and sending unit 2morrow.

He's run out of money so I joined old and new,cut out all the bad line,should be good.Tight quarters when you can't disturb anything for fear of breaking something else.

Left the stickers on,like a newbie Busa owner.

I had to tape the t to the read end to make up lines,all the mounting bolts are broken.

Yup,kind of a turd,but he likes it.

Thanks Red.
Rubb.

 

[Red05]

Good work Rubb. Helping him like that is really cool of you

 

[Red05]

My Mercedes has a similar valve measuring suspension height that controls oil pressure to the rear shocks, keeps the car level under acceleration or load. All hydraulic, no electronics, engine driven pump. System still works on a 25 year old car.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Nice work Rubb . . . shudder, I'm soooooo glad those days are gone for me, I did years of working on ol' sh!t boxes like that, I even had one dripping blood on me, in the rear tray was a dismembered calf belonging to some farmer that couldn't be arsed removing the carcass before bringing it into the workshop. It was covered up with a tarp so I never saw it before I felt the drips . . . lol.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Nice work Rubb . . . shudder, I'm soooooo glad those days are gone for me, I did years of working on ol' sh!t boxes like that, I even had one dripping blood on me, in the rear tray was a dismembered calf belonging to some farmer that couldn't be arsed removing the carcass before bringing it into the workshop. It was covered up with a tarp so I never saw it before I felt the drips . . . lol.

THAT is nasty my Brother. Yuk.
Rubb.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Good work Rubb. Helping him like that is really cool of you

Do what I can Red. When you need your vehicle and don't have the cash for hours and hours of pro shop labor you gotta ask for help right.
I don't mind...I'd just be spending all that time riding me T-Busa,going for lunch...chasin' chics.krap like that.
Rubb.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Tackled the last of the fuel line issues today.Some twat put in his homemade line from the motor to the fuel filter. YUK.
Crummy work. IDK but stripped threads on a fuel line using compression fittings.
It's all better now. New lines,I flared the ends,proper fittings...less than 20 bucks to fix that issue. OEM from Toyota...$160 dollars + labour. OUCH.

He's happy so far. He's made a choice on a proportioning valve from the rear split to each rear wheel cylinder.
Load up the box with heavy cargo...give the valve a few twists. He's chosen one from Summit Racing so I'm hoping it won't be Chinese junk.
It's my name on the line here,and I won't hand over something I wouldn't trust with my loved ones.
I'm sure I can work out a loose formula based on load weight as to how much to turn the valve. It will not be an' exact science as the valve has no digital input/output or anything,no exact weight values,etc, but I will get it close by "locking them up" at highway speed with a full load. Prolly a little "rinse and repeat" required to compute an' answer to that equation. LOL.

Party on peepul...
Rubb.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Tackled the last of the fuel line issues today.Some twat put in his homemade line from the motor to the fuel filter. YUK.
Crummy work. IDK but stripped threads on a fuel line using compression fittings.
It's all better now. New lines,I flared the ends,proper fittings...less than 20 bucks to fix that issue. OEM from Toyota...$160 dollars + labour. OUCH.

View attachment 1623441

He's happy so far. He's made a choice on a proportioning valve from the rear split to each rear wheel cylinder.
Load up the box with heavy cargo...give the valve a few twists. He's chosen one from Summit Racing so I'm hoping it won't be Chinese junk.
It's my name on the line here,and I won't hand over something I wouldn't trust with my loved ones.
I'm sure I can work out a loose formula based on load weight as to how much to turn the valve. It will not be an' exact science as the valve has no digital input/output or anything,no exact weight values,etc, but I will get it close by "locking them up" at highway speed with a full load. Prolly a little "rinse and repeat" required to compute an' answer to that equation. LOL.

View attachment 1623444

Party on peepul...
Rubb.

Effin brilliant Rubb! I mean it man, you done real good on this truck and you are certainly on the right path to working out how to set that valve for a loaded rear deck. Your buddy has to always remember to reset it after losing the load . . . or she's gonna be a little tail happy under brakes lol.
I like your commitment to your friends by giving up time and effort, and $$$, to help them out and make their lives better.
Good man . . . now, carry on.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Effin brilliant Rubb! I mean it man, you done real good on this truck and you are certainly on the right path to working out how to set that valve for a loaded rear deck. Your buddy has to always remember to reset it after losing the load . . . or she's gonna be a little tail happy under brakes lol.
I like your commitment to your friends by giving up time and effort, and $$$, to help them out and make their lives better.
Good man . . . now, carry on.

10-4 Boss. Hey Kiwi,my Skype...she no workie? Did you do something to my computer last time we were chattin' ? I know you've got 'puter skillz. Whats the deal with my Skype?
Rubb.

 

[rubbersidedown]

10-4 Boss. Hey Kiwi,my Skype...she no workie? Did you do something to my computer last time we were chattin' ? I know you've got 'puter skillz. Whats the deal with my Skype?
Rubb.

OK,I think I fix.
Rubb.