will an o2 bung plug fall out

Mythos

Mythos

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I might want an o2 bung welded into my pipe before it is ceramic coated just in case I ever choose to use the ZAFM automatic tuning device.

My question is how do you make sure that stubby screw never shakes loose and falls out of the bung?

I guess a hose clamp would work. Any other suggestions?
 
Presently I own the Autotune unit for the PCV and it has a bung with a bolt that is put in place of the sensor exactly as you mentioned. The bung is not welded in yet.

It just occurred to me that when installed, the bolt or the sensor for that matter, may vibrate out of an exhaust. Sounds like you feel this would not be a problem if properly tightened.
 
Safety wire it to the motor or some other place on the bike.
 
"If your bung is that loose the plug could fall out."
Click to expand...

I've been refraining from making jokes of my own what with all the talk of humps and bras and such. There's quite a bit of potential.:laugh:

Safety wire it to the motor or some other place on the bike.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I was thinking that to. Some people do that on the oil drain plug. There would be no need to weld any eylets to the exhaust. You could just drill a lateral hole through the bolt head and run a wire through it. Tie the other end to something down there and if it ever did fall out, at least it would not be lost.

Blue locktight couldn't hurt. I don't know if the high temp would melt/burn it, though.

I think if there is no big problem with header nuts coming loose, there should be even less probs with o2 bung/plugs comming out if they are properly torqued.

Thanks for ideas, all. I will check the bung when I check the header nuts. Maybe do some kind of wire up fail safe.
 
The bolt that goes into the exhaust bung that I have has a copper washer. I just tighten it down and it's never gotten loose yet. I even throw some anti seize on the bolts threads. Each time I swap Lambda's the bolt is always still in there tight as ever.
 
From your first post you state you want the bung "in case" you want to use it. Why don't you do like Brocks' does and weld it on but don't drill the hole until you need it. Very simple to do after it's welded-just be sure to drill a pilot hole dead center and you can even wrap the sides of the larger drill bit with masking tape so you don't bugger the threads.
 
Don't know about using locktite. Just put it in good and tight and then check it at every oil change. Shouldn't be an issue my brother...
 
jefro said:
From your first post you state you want the bung "in case" you want to use it. Why don't you do like Brocks' does and weld it on but don't drill the hole until you need it. Very simple to do after it's welded-just be sure to drill a pilot hole dead center and you can even wrap the sides of the larger drill bit with masking tape so you don't bugger the threads.
Click to expand...

I like that idea. I did not know the bung hole was not drilled in a Brocks pipe. No hole, no need for a plug. You just label the plug and put it away with all the other little parts you accumulate for the bike.

For something that is largely a non-issue, you guys sure come up with a lot of good ideas. :laugh: Thanks.
 
How do you make the bung hole for the Auto Tune Sensor?? I have the R55 full system on my 09 Busa
 
First you buy the bung so you know how big of a hole you need to drill. Then you drill it, clamp it and weld it. There are special instructions on what angle to place the bung to avoid contact with condensation. The bottom of the pipe would be the worst place in this regard. Also, the bung should be placed before any catalytic converters and preferably in a place where it contacts zuast from all 4 cylinders. The collector seems the place to go, right about between 2 and 3 o'clock as viewed from the rear.

HPC attaches bungs to pipes they sell for a fee. You might ask them about the cost of shipping and labor and parts. Look for "GPW" here on the forum. That's the man.
 
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Mythos said:
Blue locktight couldn't hurt. I don't know if the high temp would melt/burn it, though.
Click to expand...

dadofthree said:
Don't know about using locktite. Just put it in good and tight and then check it at every oil change. Shouldn't be an issue my brother...
Click to expand...


If you decide to go with a thread sealer (loctight) I would double check the temp range. I know the blue definitely would not hold up under this heat.

+1 antiseize - i know loctight makes a copper based high temp antiseize, but I'm not sure about the rating...:thumbsup:

aaaaand how's this one?? I need TP for my bunghole!:laugh:
 
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Munchie said:
If you decide to go with a thread sealer (loctight) I would double check the temp range. I know the blue definitely would not hold up under this heat.

+1 antiseize - i know loctight makes a copper based high temp antiseize, but I'm not sure about the rating...:thumbsup:

aaaaand how's this one?? I need TP for my bunghole!:laugh:
Click to expand...
Copper anti seize rated at 2k degrees. Don't use it on O2 sensors.
 
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