WHEN ARE BUNS DEAD?

OB_Dirty Pete

Registered
I'm concerned that I may be throwing rear tires out when they've still got lots of useful life in them.

I replace tires when they hit the wear bars.

Let's forget about rain/wet for a moment. I'm aware that when you're down to wear bars your tire's ability to channel water out to the sides has already been severely compromised.

But if dry safety is the only criterion, can I let these lightweight modern buns wear down until, say, the cords start to peek out?

Do they even have cords?

If I could extend tire life by 20% past the wear bars, that's good $avings.

Any tire experts out there, or people who have done 190 repeatedly on a fried tire and lived?
 
dirty pete ask your self this question for approx 180 dollars for a new tire for a savings of 20 percent compared to wrecking your bike and killing yourself, possibly someone else or at least wrecking your bike all over 40 or 50 bucks savings which would you choose. tires in good condition are good insurance. The tires are the only thing between your motorcycle and the road, why compromise? Dude.........think about this. Think long and hard and you will come to the common sense thing to do.................
 
...you pullen our leg about this , rite? I stopped trying to sqweez the last mile outa hi po tires back when radials were for cars...yes I learned the HARD way...now I givem to guys running on baldies that burn off their tires anyway...maybe you could make shoes out of your partly worn skins...I ditchem when the profile goes on the rear and the fronts get cupped so you notice...
 
mez3 race compound at cycleworx in indianapolis was 280.00 mounted + tax.
wasnt all that far off from all the other local shops "in stock 190's that'll hook a busa" tires. other choices were a dragon, or another ax . mez3 was the most expensive and the guy promised i would love it !!!
SO I BOUGHT IT !!! ya get what ya pay for right ???
 
So I take it everyone thinks that when you're down to wear bars, it's trash time.

Just for the record, I wasn't looking to risk my skin for a few more miles. I was just concerned that I was being over cautious.

It drives me nuts that this bike goes through tires like this, and that I have to rationalize constant replacement as a 'great opportunity to find the best tire combo.'

BTW the tx25 200 has proven to wear considerably better than either the OE tire or the ME Z3 did.
 
Aside from the rain question, a bald tire actually grips the road better. There is more of a contact patch. The chance of a puncture is the same - bald or new. I ride till it is close to or cords STARTING to show. But at this time never get caught in the rain. The tire is structurally just as strong regardless of tread depth.
 
Pilot Sports 190/50 120/70 do not have any of that nasty slip that the oem's exhibit over the tar patch on the blacktop cracks. The Bridgestones slid every thime you crossed that stuff, these Pilots have not slid yet. Very happy with them and you should consider them as a replacement.
 
Michelin is comong out with a 200 pilot in a street series now. With the race front that will probably be a good setup.
 
Na... ride it till you see the threads show'n. It will hold together :) Change it when you get scared. I just ride it until the a.s.s.(***) end starts to get squirrelly, operative work being starts.

It will talk to you and tell you when it needs new rubber. when the handle characteristics of the bike start to change its time for the new tire. Of course this does mean you have to account for rain/damp roads... if they are bald beEXTREMELY careful when you see a wet road, ie from sprinklers or morning dew.



[This message has been edited by speed (edited 14 October 1999).]
 
I didn't pay $180 for my tx25 200 series. Does anyone have a lead on them since they stop making them? I think I paid $165 for the tire and had it mounted and balanced for 5 or 10 bucks.
 
I paid 187.90 for my 190 MEZ on my Falcon at TC&S in Tucson. Mounted and balanced 15.00 more for road hazard. Bikes that run like this are going to be hard on tires. No prob for me. I love the Hayabusa and I have no plans to trade or replace the bike for any other.
 
Pete,
You only need groves on wet surfaces. Channels water out to minimize hydroplaning.
Slicks give more traction in the dry. The more rubber in contact with the road, the more traction.
Maybe you should save the worn ones for track days.
For street use, I would recomend changing when they hit the bars.
 
Cbx, the front Michelin Pilot Sport works great as it really sticks like riding as rail. These are the best tires I have ever used. Pilot race tires must be used with caution in the wet, they are not a rain tire.

Time will tell, how these tires are going to last. A lot of my riding is high milage days at over a 100mph.

The Busa can not be beat as a high speed sport touring mount.
 
I'm convinced that 200 size tires are not the way to go. It seems that 190 are just about right, they do corner much better. The 200's do have a larger contact patch, but will not provide that patch when cornring.

Dunlop 207's are great, they have a new 207GP* "star" tire comming out that is simply a great tracking tire. We used this tire at Road Alanta last week, they were much better than the standard 207GP.

This does not help with finding of the TX tires, but it's my $.02 anyway.
 
Pete: I wouldn't recommend riding the tire untill you see cords. The tire is very thin once you are down to the wear bars and it wouldn't take much to puncture that tire! Also, take a look at a bald tire once it is off the bike, the profile is so bad its a wonder you can ride on it. Going into corners should be an indication that the tire it shot (riding the worn edge). Bottom line -- too risky! Dish out the $$$ early.

Also, this is kind of interesting, take a look at a new 180 and a 190 tire, not mounted, check out the depth of the tire in the center. The 180 should be alot thicker. Some guys install a 180 on a 6 inch rim to get extra miles out of the tire, BUT of course it wil be a different profile than the 190.

Why not put a street compound on the rear (say D207ZR) and a race compound on the front (D207GP). Thats the best bang for your buck...
 
hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.......wonder why superbike races they change the tires for every race they are lucky to finish the race with one set, as tire managment is part of the race...........any takers.........??
 
...hey Speed! I used to watch you race when I was a kid! How is Chim Chim? Has he been returned to the wild? Any way, you sound like one of them like I was talken about, so maybe we all aoutta donate our used skins....sorta recyclem ...the guys like that down at the dealer get plenty, so you can have mine...my last set ended up on a GSXR 600 and causing mucho air pollution...I guess I scare easy, but I got pretty old, too...HEY! This could lead right into another thread..."When Are Riders Dead?"

[This message has been edited by Hapo (edited 14 October 1999).]
 
180.00 ???? is that u.s. $$$ ? you must know something or some one i dont. i paid 280.00 for my new tire . help a brother out ...hook me up with your connection ! or is a mez3 just a really overpriced tire ?
 
CrazyBill, what kinda tire did you get for $280.00? I sure hope it wasnt the MEZ3...

[This message has been edited by Best Cycle Parts (edited 14 October 1999).]
 
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