What's your redline???

[money mike]

Hey guysI heard that balancing your crank increases your redline.. how do you know what your new redline is???
Thanks

 

[BUBBA]

Hey guysI heard that balancing your crank increases your redline.. how do you know what your new redline is???
Thanks

Shouldn't your crank be balanced at Production? But I know that you can increase tolerance and make it better. But how do you relate this to redline output? I am no expert, so I hope someone can clarify this.

 

[money mike]

Well according to alot of people... the factory does a horrible job at balancing, they just put it in the bike and go. and from what i've heard, balancing, frees up power as well as makes the bike run smoother, and increase your redline??

 

[slatroni]

balancing is a good thing!

 

[fredvance]

The factory does a fair job of balancing the motors. A good balance job is a good thing. To have a higher redline you have to reflash the ecu, balancing the motor alone will not raise your redline.

Fred

 

[mestona]

Balancing is only a small part, if you really want increased rev range, you need to lighten the reciprocating mass, put in stronger valve springs and bigger cams. Without these mods, there would be no point to "balancing to increase red line" because your top end power begins to fall off before the factory red line anyway.

 

[Commuta_Busa]

+1 your valve train is the first limiting factor. After that you've got to think about piston speed.

Balancing is only a small part, if you really want increased rev range, you need to lighten the reciprocating mass, put in stronger valve springs and bigger cams. Without these mods, there would be no point to "balancing to increase red line" .

 

[O Holy P]

a 12 pack

 

[aitch]

when we re-flshed my ecu using petriks software we raised the rev limiter to 11.400rpm this is considered fine on a stock gen1, with a totally stock bike this would have been pointless as the power is falling off so much, however with race exhaust large airbox and all short stacks its now pulling the power all the way up past 11.000 rpm, would never use such high rpm on the road but makes a big difference for me in the standing mile, where i need to change from 5th to 6 and still be on top of the power

aitch

 

[Petey Wheatstraw]

11k+ Stock bore...a lil motor work.:mboesgrins:

 

[arthur39]

i think balancing your crank will get you to your redline quicker, less rotating mass, most people balance the crank and remove the counter balancer, reducing quite a bit of mass, factory rev limit is 10800, like others have said you need to increase the rev limiter by reflashing the ecu, but it would be pointless without other mods to pull more power after about 10200 rpms where torque and ponies begin to drop from the factory.

 

[BiggDaddyBusa08]

My redline is set @ 11,700( flashed with ecu editor) Now there have been a few times my air shifter didnt work and the engine went 12,000(as indicated on the factory tach) then I hear it cut out the ignition. My tach was off by 300 rpms, it was reading higher than what the engine was actually turning. This was verified by comparing the tach to the ecu editor engine data screen. I was shifting at 10,750 as inticated by the tach but it was actually 10,450. I raised the shift rpms to 11,000 and my ET's started to drop, finally raisng it to 11,500 and it dropped even more 9.902 best so far.
I guess what im trying to say is check the accuracy of you tach it might be off.

 

[ogre]

Would a 1397 with a built head and balanced crank be safe to run up to 12k or so? I mean if it's no longer making power, it'd be pointless, but say it's still pulling, would the motor make it?
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[GIXERHP]

Would a 1397 with a built head and balanced crank be safe to run up to 12k or so? I mean if it's no longer making power, it'd be pointless, but say it's still pulling, would the motor make it?
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I the bike is tuned correctly, you then set the redline, according to where the power falls off.

 

[ogre]

i mean will the motor physically survive. how high can you wind a 1397 at various stages of being "built"?

 

[Ft Campbell Busa]

I started off building cars and anything other than a factory low horsepower rebuild we balanced the rotating assy. I know some folks have slapped some stuff together and survived but for performance and RPM a lite weight balanced rotating assy was key to making power. I would take it to a dyno and see where peek power is on the 1397. If your valve train is up to speed and you are not experiencing valve float, coil bind, etc.... then adjust accordingly over peek HP.

 

[ogre]

Yea, I will get the crank balanced and knife edged when I build the motor. I was just curious. Small airbox mod, some 385 cams, a little port work on top of the 1397 and we'll see where the power is. It's a long way off still tho
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[busa2001]

Balance and lighten the crank, it will get you to red line much quicker, but will not increase rev limiter, i currently have my rev limiter set at 12k, and while my tach indicate well above 12k when i hit the limiter in 3rd gear my logger showed 11.7k, never go my what is indicated on the tach at high rpm it's way off.

 

[BiggDaddyBusa08]

Balance and lighten the crank, it will get you to red line much quicker, but will not increase rev limiter, i currently have my rev limiter set at 12k, and while my tach indicate well above 12k when i hit the limiter in 3rd gear my logger showed 11.7k, never go my what is indicated on the tach at high rpm it's way off.

I have that same problem on my GENII. The factory tach is off by 300/400 rpms. It reads @ 11,000 but the engine is actually running at 10,700.