What steering damper do you recommend

[black954]

Uhh Don't think I don't ride hard, I can get out there and push the busa to where it starts complaining. But here we have folks saying that the DAMPER is needed on the Busa cause it's used by "All THESE BIKES"... Insert list of track ready track designed bikes.

Then flash back to reality and the 560LB Suzuki Hayabusa. It's LOoOoOOong, Dead Stable, and when it does start to move around it's allways been a Push either front or rear. NOT a snatch and grab afair, not Slapper territory.

I stand by my contention that the High Dollar aftermarket DAMPERS on a Busa are little more ego dressing and cool factor. I'll go EVEN further and say if you've been experiancing headshake or slappers exiting corners, you need to worry more about your riding technique than a New Flashy Damper.

No I'm not being funny, rebuild your OEM. And your Good to go. Hanging Ohlins componants on a busa is like running Penske or Bilstien adjustables on a Cadillac Deville, or DTC... Sure you can, but there's little point.

That wasn't my arguement. You guys were saying that steering dampers are just band-aids. I say they are part of the suspension. If the busa is so da## stabil, then why does it have a steering damper FROM THE FACTORY? If you think it's stupid to spend $400-500 on an aftermarket damper then just say so. I don't think adding heavy oil to the stock one is a bad idea, i'd just rather spend the money on the adjustable one so I can fine tune it to MY riding style. From the looks of it, a majoriety of the busa owners are making alot more $ than the average jap sportbike owners and don't mind spending $ on their ride. And to say that "the high dollar aftermarket dampers on a busa are little more ego dressing and cool factor", is also what you could say about buying the 1300 hayabusa over the 600GSXR. But we all have busas......

 

[BusaCruise]

if the stocker doesn't leak ... just replace the oil with 80/90 wt...... it takes 30 minutes and might save you hundreds.
mine has been this way for more than a year.

 

[JINKSTER]

Point being?...i agree with IG in that steering dampers are "Band-Aid Science"..as they hide problems annnd..."Dampen FeedBack"....to the rider of....."What The Bike Wants To DO".

If this is true, then why do 99% of all professional, high dollar, extensive R&D, roadrace motorcycles have a fully adjustable steering damper installed? I believe the adjustable steering damper is part of a well tuned suspension. Conventional forks cannot resist every dynamic force placed on the front end of a motorcycle in varying conditions. Honda for years believed the same as you, but finally in 2004 decided it was hooey and has fitted their superbike class motorcycle (cbr1000rr) with an electronically adjusted damper.  If i'm not mistaken, every sportbike manufacturer has a steering damper on at least one of their models, and is usually their flagship superbike.
Ducati - all 749/999, some Monsters
Aprilia - all Mille's/Tuono's
MV Agusta -all Tambourini's/Brutale's
Suzuki - all GSXR's
Kawisaki - all ZX10's
Honda - all CBR1000RR's
Yamaha - all R1LE/R6S

why does your 954 handle better than a CBR1000RR w/ Elec. Steering Damping?...and yes...it does.

why did the hot riders in the know automatically bin the factory supplied steering dampers on their brand new TL1000S's?

could it be that through the years that the marketing of the supreme RR hypersportbikes has become so fierce that design engineers have turned a blind eye to the basics and attempted to compensate for rediculously steep rake and trails by adding technical doo-dads to bike designs that sacrafice "Handling & Stability" for.."Quicker Steering & Shorter Wheelbases"?...the later being things that even a average Joe Q. Public rookie rider can disconcern?...as he rants on at the burger joint on bike night.."How Quick The Steering Is"....on his new high tech RR?..which he.....uhem...."bought"?

No surprise that honda would be the first to introduce elec. steering damping...as they are also the same folks who brought us the Hondamatic and the Rune and every gimmick and marketing trickery inbetween..but to bad it still doesn't handle as well as your 954...or even a dated 929 for that matter...but because a relatively new rider/purchaser "Can Feel It Work"?...."it must be good".....right?

btw...it would be my best guess that Rossi runs an Ohlins steering damper because...

Unlike Scotts, Shindy Daytona, Hyper-Pro, GPR and a long host of others?...Ohlins typed the highest number above the dotted line that Rossi signed.

Want an eye-opener?...take a historical look at the lap-times over the past several years....as there's been damn few innovations that have truely aided pro level riders to signifigantly whittle those lap-times down...as over the past few years?.."The Big Hold-Back"...has...and will continue to be...."TIRES"...he11....when the 600's are only trailing the liter classers by a second or two per lap?...at daytona?...really...how large of a role do you think a "Steering Damper" is playing in that equation.

"Marketing" My Friend...."Marketing".

Not to mention...rossi's so damn good you could probably take his steering damper off his bike and he'd never even know it was missing till ya told'im.

L8R, Bill.

 

[tinbender0]

My bike was head shaking a little when coming hard out of a turns. The tires were at the wearbars..I Just replaced my tires a few weeks ago, It doesnt seem to do it now...

 

[Gunnybusa]

Sorry im not going to add to your drama ,I use the stock one.

 

[busatodd]

After reading all the input, I think I will change the stock oil.

 

[Tufbusa]

I see a lot of misinformed here? First off, Scott2, your damper is not necessarily worn out if you find little resistance when moving the damper back and forth. They are exactly that way from the factory. The disign is to increase resistance as the speed of the handle bars increase. Adding 90 weight oil does not necessarily improve the dampers ability to do it's job. It just makes it stiff to turn from center. Many guys who have adjustable dampers tend to run them to stiff for the job the damper is ask to do in a speed wobble or when a tank slapper is initiated. Agreed, the stock damper is not as efficent as an after market damper. However, in the same token, most will never get themselves in a tank slapper situation as long as they stay off the rear brake when riding fast, be gentle on the throttle when leaned over and set the front tire down straight when doing wheelies.

Speed wobble is usually the result of improper suspension set up such has having the front higher than the rear, loose stearing bearings etc. as Jinkster says. There are a wide viriety of reason for wobble, it can even be caused by having your head above the wind screen at high speeds or your elbows out to far etc. (Rider Position) Speed wobble is usually not a serious issue as it is rare to be the cause of a crash. A steering damper will help to calm this situation but will not cure it. You have to find the source and make appropreate actions. Sometimes its a hard one to find and fix?

However, the infamous tank slapper which is discribed as when the bars hit the stops at speed is an intirely different matter. A very serious matter! This is where the damper is worth it's weight in salt. There are only two ways of initiation a tank slapper (And I beg you to show me one situation caught on camera that will argue this point. Stories of you or your buddy getting a tank slapper in other situations don't count) There are only two things that will give you a tank slapper (Now remember, a tank slapper is a violent action in which the bars hit the stops both ways at speed not to be mistaken from a wobble) one is throttle and the other is the rear brake. (Actually there is a third one that is rarely a problem but has happened on occasions)

In order to get a tank slapper you must get the bikes rear wheel out of alignment with the front. This is the only way you can get your bike to slap the stops with the front wheel. First, the throttle, when the bike is leaned and you give her to much throttle causing the tire to spin is the most common track related tank slapper which results usually in a high side. I have watch many get pitched off their bikes in a high side which was initiated by a tank slapper which really began with spinning up the rear on corner exit. Most racers spin the tire on corner exit sometime during every race. This is where the damper earns it's keep. If the tire spins and the rider is skilled enough to counter steer and keep the tire spinning slightly so the bikes rear tire comes back to alignment with the front fairly gently, no harm is done and the steering damper takes out the wobble and everyone is happy. Where the problem occurs is when the tire spins and the rear steps out to far for counter steering to be effective. The rider is forced to cut the throttle allowing the rear to grab traction and launch the rear of the bike in the opposite direction with such force causing the infamous tank slapper and usually pitching the rider which most describe as a highside when actually it was a tank slapper first before the high side that caused the launching of the rider.

The second and most famous cause of street riders to find themselve wondering what the hell happened when their bars are ripped from their hands and suddenly they are traveling though space like a missle launched from North Korea (Kinda wobbly and misguided) is use of the rear brake while braking hard with the front. Using the rear brake while hard on the front will many times cause the rear to step out when it locks up and looses traction (As long as it's touching the pavement and rolling it has enough traction to keep it behind you). Once the rear locks up, it instantly steps out to one side or the other and the rider will almost always let go of the rear brake once he feels it step out and from that point on, it's no different than spinning it while leaned over. The rear tire will grab traction while it's out to one side causing the rear to violently come back past center and the next thing is the bars are ripped from your hands and you end up with a high side. This too, is a place where a good aftermarked damper may save you from disaster? But there is a point that even the best damper won't save you. Watch most any of the AMA or GP race flicks and you'll see lots of high sides that could not be saved with even the best dampers money will buy.

The third way to enter into a grand tank slapper is to loft the front tire into the air, turn the wheel off center a little to far and set it down. This will also get you into the infamous tank slapper just before the highside. Doesn't happen very often but it does happen. Most guys keep the wheel pretty straight and never get more than a little wobble when they set it down. I've never personally seen first hand a tank slapper from this senerio but I have watched a few on stunt videos.

An aftermarket damper is a nice addition to you bike no matter what you are riding. Hopefully, you will never need it? If you are just a casual street rider, chances are, you'll never have a need for one but it only takes saving your buns one time to pay for itself.

 

[StreetnTrack]

If you want to use stock location go with the ohlins damper.

 

[DaCol.]

If I changed, which I'am not cause I don't see the need, it would probably be a Scott adjustable rotary type. But since I've never needed anything more than the stock one, Money saved is Money for something else I need (or think I need   )

 

[MPH 200]

Uhh Don't think I don't ride hard, I can get out there and push the busa to where it starts complaining.  But here we have folks saying that the DAMPER is needed on the Busa cause it's used by "All THESE BIKES"...     Insert list of track ready track designed bikes.

Then flash back to reality and the 560LB Suzuki Hayabusa.  It's LOoOoOOong, Dead Stable, and when it does start to move around it's allways been a Push either front or rear.  NOT a snatch and grab afair, not Slapper territory.

I stand by my contention that the High Dollar aftermarket DAMPERS on a Busa are little more ego dressing and cool factor.     I'll go EVEN further and say if you've been experiancing headshake or slappers exiting corners, you need to worry more about your riding technique than a New Flashy Damper.  

No I'm not being funny, rebuild your OEM.  And your Good to go.  Hanging Ohlins componants on a busa is like running Penske or Bilstien adjustables on a Cadillac Deville, or DTC...   Sure you can, but there's little point.  

I will disagree w/ you. I have a Scott's damper on all of my bikes. Have you ever ridden a bike w/ one then the same bike w/ out? I race a 600RR & my Wife rides a 600RR on the street & track. It feels like a completely different bike when I get on hers w/ out the damper. There is a huge difference is stability in the corners w/ the damper.

My Busa is not a trailer queen, so I don't need something fancy on top of my triple tree. it is adjusted & suspension set for me & how I corner. I don't care about going fast in a straight line, just not my thing.

I would advise you to ride a bike w/ a damper & the same bike w/ out - there is a difference.

 

[99'busa]

 

[BigDiesel]

Uhh Don't think I don't ride hard, I can get out there and push the busa to where it starts complaining.  But here we have folks saying that the DAMPER is needed on the Busa cause it's used by "All THESE BIKES"...     Insert list of track ready track designed bikes.

Then flash back to reality and the 560LB Suzuki Hayabusa.  It's LOoOoOOong, Dead Stable, and when it does start to move around it's allways been a Push either front or rear.  NOT a snatch and grab afair, not Slapper territory.

I stand by my contention that the High Dollar aftermarket DAMPERS on a Busa are little more ego dressing and cool factor.     I'll go EVEN further and say if you've been experiancing headshake or slappers exiting corners, you need to worry more about your riding technique than a New Flashy Damper.  

No I'm not being funny, rebuild your OEM.  And your Good to go.  Hanging Ohlins componants on a busa is like running Penske or Bilstien adjustables on a Cadillac Deville, or DTC...   Sure you can, but there's little point.  

Sorry to say sir...but you're DEAD wrong here, compadre-I only say, because I know firsthand

Been in several tankslappers w/OEM damper, back at 6-7k miles when I first bought the busa and again early this year...fought back n saved both lettn off throttle n holdn bars, but scared the snot outta me both times.
Just mounted the Ohlins damper few weeks ago-and I just ordered a new front tire yesterday   Dude, you know my bike aint set up for twisties, but I can run w/the beat of the worst on interstates   got it wide open several times and I am here to say HONESTLY-the Ohlins makes a HUGE difference in the handling of the bike....
*but only when you are riding it at speeds that would make you a complete AZZHOLE on public roads*
I did notice slightly better handling at slow speeds with the damper turned down-if you have the thing set near/at HI (stiffest of 18 settings) it takes MORE effort than OEM to turn the Busa at low speeds, but even then it "soaks up" bumps n vibrations better than factory damper even at lowest/softest setting.

All in all, I love this damper to DEATH, and will not buy another bike that I dont throw one on-IF i plan on riding the crap outta it; no point adding one of these to a DRZ or M109R, but when you're leaned over DEEP in a turn at _ _ _mph, you WANT one of these on your bike. PERIOD

and for my parkin lot pimps out there: *note:me n my r-tard buddy mounted it backwards, the bracket is made to go on the other way, so the dial is adjusted by the left hand while riding*

 

[Revolution]

stock modded with heavier oil

 

[Revolution]

stock modded with heavier oil

 

[Blazing-Saddle]

I use an Ohlins unit; works great!

 

[TXBusa05LE]

stock modded with heavier oil  

+1

30W...

 

[kennym4]

Why I would get an after market damper is because........I'm smart enough to know I ain't jumping on ANYTHING that can do tripple digits, that has something I worked on, and attached it to my steering !! I would not know where to begin with replacing the oil, and if by some miracle I did get it back together, I would NEVER feel comfortable on it !!

 

[Revolution]

yo kenny man i hear ya, me no mechanic but the mod is easy, messy but easy

there's a how to somewhere, check it out.

 

[S-R Racing]

Heres a Matris, complete with cheap brackets, although not worn out yet after 2 years

 

[pashnit]

Holy thread revival Batman!

Lot of good info in this thread. I actually like all of your pro & con views. If you really are in the market for one of these, gives you some juicy material to sink your teeth into.

Worth mentioning you can get the new GPR Stabilizer V4 Sport (V1 is older generation) in the PashnitBusa.com store.

Also offer the Ohlins which was also mentioned.


Maybe group buy time.