What steering damper do you recommend

What steering damper do you recommend -

  • Scotts

    Votes: 85 52.8%

  • GPR

    Votes: 36 22.4%

  • Olhins

    Votes: 26 16.1%

  • Other

    Votes: 14 8.7%
  • Total voters
    161
Very good thread guy's, lotz of good info from both sides:beerchug: i've been debating myself on wether to spring for an aftermarket dampener, but i think after reading all this good info i will do the 80-90wt mod, and see how that works out, and save some cash for GOFAST parts :laugh: Thx again guy's for the brain food!
 
great thread and very debatable too. Everyone has valid points. IMHO, a stock damper is more than enough for most applications. headshakes and slappers, more often than not, are a result of rider input, suspension, condition of the steering head/front end triple assembly and/or bike geometry.

The busa is heavy and "raked out" enough with a long wheelbase that it provides plenty of stability. A stock damper should provide plenty of safety, but an adjustable aftermarket one is good insurance.

I run the stock damper on my Gixx1K. 100 lbs lighter than busa, WAY LESS RAKE geometry wise, especially since I raised ride height 8 mm in the rear with the new Elka shock. It is very prone to headshakes, slappers, and front end tucks. I experience headshakes occasionally at high speeds when WFO and the front powerwheelies out of corners or straights and back down. But as soon as I relax my grip, stay on the throttle WOT, the headshakes go away and resolves themselves. The bike wants to track a certain way and it will find a way to correct itself, as long as the rider inputs don't interfere with it. Keith Code even mentions that. For me, stock is more than sufficient. I don't consider myself a slouch either when it comes to riding. I ride hard on the track--100%: go big or go home attitude. I do make some rider errors once in a while and the bike will definitely let me know. But as soon as I back off on the inputs and stay on with the power, she fixes herself real fast. Anyone who thinks all tracks are "smooth," HA!!! Try riding Reno/Fernley! That place will put Speedbumps to shame! :rofl: Reno will teach you real quick about rider inputs.

But take note, I am not For or Against an aftermarket damper, it really depends on the application and type of riding one is doing. Not to mention how much influence a rider has on their steering, and whether or not they have built a sensitivity to the overall feel of the bike.
 
Revlis said:
I'll go EVEN further and say if you've been experiancing headshake or slappers exiting corners, you need to worry more about your riding technique than a New Flashy Damper. wink.gif
Click to expand...

couldn't have said it better myself. Even Keith Code, whose CA Superbike School I'll be attending in a couple of weeks, sez that with good rider form and technique a damper is not necessary. But the problem is, most of us don't have good form or technique, that's why the OEM's put dampers on the big bore bikes-which I feel is plenty sufficient.
 
GPR on mine, until I tried one... I did not understand the difference they make.
Would not be without it now.
 
Are'nt scotts and ohlins same,same? I voted Scotts that's what I use on my 10, and my old 954. 0 problems saved my butt a couple of times on the track.
 
The ohlins are over rated IMO. Pick one that's adjustable, mounts easily (plug n play), and might even allow you to raise the tank easily without complete disassembly.

I have a hyperpro rsc damper mounted on mine and am satisfied with it but I wish I would have gotten one that didn't need to be disassembled when using canyon dancer tie down strap, or when the tank needs to be raised, or had to grind the yoke mount so it would fit after market top yoke.
 
damn I just noticed this was an old post that someone rekindled :banghead:

so what did you end up buying or using?
 
gtrpimp76 said:
couldn't have said it better myself. Even Keith Code, whose CA Superbike School I'll be attending in a couple of weeks, sez that with good rider form and technique a damper is not necessary. But the problem is, most of us don't have good form or technique, that's why the OEM's put dampers on the big bore bikes-which I feel is plenty sufficient.
Click to expand...


What does Keith have on all the Kawasaki's at Superbike school?


that is a pretty good endorsement in my book :thumbsup:

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I just thought I would throw this out there:
I don't care what damper you get, it should have 90W oil in it.

:whistle:
 
Revlis said:
Hanging Ohlins componants on a busa is like running Penske or Bilstien adjustables on a Cadillac Deville, or DTC... Sure you can, but there's little point. laugh.gif
Click to expand...


I beg to differ. The Ohlins R&T fork and SU 406 shock made a world of difference even at a moderate pace.

cheers
ken
 
mike1180 said:
I just thought I would throw this out there:
I don't care what damper you get, it should have 90W oil in it.

:whistle:
Click to expand...


Bad advice..and dangerous, 90w would make the bike impossible to steer.
 
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Alot of great terrific points of views from lots of experts here.

My point of views>get a ohlins and mount it at the stock position.Its not eye catching,although its a bit more difficult to adjust.Hell i just turn the handle bar to the far left.Its ok for me.Top mount ohlins will pose a threat cause of the bracket and etc,if you do hard braking .You may unknowingly move forward and hit your throat with it.Instead of helping it will cost your life.You never know.Top mount is true that its much more easier to adjust and got the X factor Bling Bling.Its eye catching for the thieves too.The cheapest alternative is to change to thicker viscosity oil.Of course dont expect too much from it compared to the aftermarket ones.
 
A stock damper is not any damper. 90W in a stock damper may be fine, just don't do it in all dampers. Read the past post.
Just because it works for you in a stock damper, does not mean it will work in every damper.
 
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