Vortex Rear set Stop light Switch





Fernando

Registered
Hello Team!! I need your advise. Currently
I bought a Vortex rear sets for my busa but I noticed I can't use my OEM rear brake light switch, spring & lever return
spring. In race form these rear sets no longer activate rear brake light from rear
brake lever. Street use requires rear brake light to be activated by rear & front
brake levers. If any of you guys have this set up done could you addressed me in the right direction to put my stop light to work properly.
Thanks in advance.
 

SSGT_B

Registered
I have the same setup. I never hooked it up mainly cause I don't use the rear brakes. The light will activate off the front brakes as well. Sorry couldn't be of more help
 

Fernando

Registered
I have the same setup. I never hooked it up mainly cause I don't use the rear brakes. The light will activate off the front brakes as well. Sorry couldn't be of more help
SSG thanks for your fast response!! do you have an idea how this switch works???

Screenshot_20190310-204429_eBay.jpg
 

mabupa

Registered
Hello Team!! I need your advise. Currently
I bought a Vortex rear sets for my busa but I noticed I can't use my OEM rear brake light switch, spring & lever return
spring. In race form these rear sets no longer activate rear brake light from rear
brake lever. Street use requires rear brake light to be activated by rear & front
brake levers. If any of you guys have this set up done could you addressed me in the right direction to put my stop light to work properly.
Thanks in advance.
Need to use a hydraulic pressure switch. Same deal when running a brembo RCS clutch master cycling.
 

Fernando

Registered
Oops, posted previous comment too fast. This switch replaces the banjo bolt at the rear MC. When you apply pressure on the pedal, it activates the switch and tail lights come on.
Miguel, which size is the correct one? 10MM+1.25 Pitch?
 

GAmedic

Registered
Revzilla lists the 1.25 thread pitch as being for most Japanese bikes and the 1.0 thread pitch for ml post European bikes. Placed my order based on that. To my surprise, I had to place a new order for the other one which was the 1.0 thread pitch.
 

Mythos

Registered
I have Satos. Same setup pretty much. I used a pressure sensor with a 90° boot and it seemed to work a little nicer than the ones where the wires come straight out of the top.

Anything like this:

Universal 10mm x 1.25 Pitch Motorcycle Hydraulic Brake Light Switch Banjo Bolt | Alexnld.com

Make sure it is the correct thread pitch. Looks like they're saying 10mm x 1.00 is the correct pitch

Check out my pics at the end of this thread:

I Think I Am Missing The Stop Light Switch?? | Busa problems

The pressure sensor switch installs exactly as the banjo body would with metal gaskets. The fluid passes through the hole at the tip of the thread and the fluid pressure pushes against a spring inside. If there is more than normal brake fluid pressure, the spring compresses and the switch makes contact completing the brake light circuit. Lights on!

You will not be able to use a torque wrench so be very careful you don't over tighten it----but don't under tighten it either! Feel the torque of the banjo bolts and try to duplicate that with your open end on the pressure sensor switch. If it leaks, tighten it a just tick more.

You do not need the brake pedal return spring at all. The fluid pressure returns the pedal and it is a lot more powerful than the little coil spring. The coil spring is just there if you loose brake pressure. It will bring your pedal up so it can't hang down and scrape in a corner if you loose rear brake pressure. I do not use the springs but I guess they're a good safety precaution.
 

GAmedic

Registered
Here is a pic of my switch mounted on the bike and a pic of a switch with the wrong threading to show what you'll be working with. These are Spiegler switches. I'm sure the Vortex switch is similar on the wire end. What I ended up doing was I took off my tail section body work and found where the factory switch plugged into. I depinned the factory switch and pinned the switch into the factory plastic connector once I figured out which wire goes to which spot. Put everything back together as if it came factory with my setup. Not a problem at all. The first pic shows where the sensor goes. It's the 90° wire angle you see. The second pic shows the wrong thread sensor and the OEM sensor side by side. As you can see, the pins are identical so they will work great in the factory plastic connector. The third pic shows the final product. My rear sets do not have the return spring so it relies only on fluids pressure to return back.
20190312_120536.jpg


20190312_121251.jpg


20190312_121404.jpg


Hope these pics help. I'm happy to help further via phone call when you get to that point.
 

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