very disappointing results w spray.

[FTMFW]

So I went out saturday to test the kit and it sucked.spraying all gears but first, my et didn't change much, and mph only came up by 2. What's the issue? I've got an mps kit single nozzle, .028 jet. Pressure at 875 (I know a bit low but not bad) and I didn't even feel it hit. Nozzle is before the filter, using a nitrous filter and about 4' of line between bottle and jet. This is on an airshifted 08 btw. I need to get results asap as I've got a race sat that I'd like to win. Thanks!!!
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[mestona]

Possibly because the spray nozzle is pre-filter you are allowing the nitrous charge to dilute into the air too much before the engine sees it. Try moving the nozzle into the air box near the ambient temp sensor. Everything I have run the laughing gas on has been post-filter injection/manifold injection (on cars).

 

[mestona]

Also the closer to the valves you put the spray, the harder the "hit" you will feel. This is due to fewer obstructions to ruin atomization prior to the combustion chamber, equating to better density and a more effective Hp boost.

 

[FTMFW]

ive only really sprayed one other vehicle and that was like 2" in front of the throttle body. on a stock genII how what size jet can i put in it without really pushing the envelope? ive gotten so many different answers...

 

[afterhours]

have it dyno tuned, see how mcuh hp you are really making. .028 jt and low pressure do not add up to big hp numbers.

 

[Draco1340]

A 2 mph gain is approximately 10 HP. Your 28 jet in a perfect world would give you 30 HP, resulting in about 5.5 mph (based on some rough assumptions on your weight, etc.).

As you mentioned, your bottle pressure hurts you. If you started at 875 without a purge, then within half a second you will drop pressure down to around 800. Discount the theoretical 30HP by 800/1100 = 22 HP. For pressures above 500 HP, this is a good rule of thumb thats pretty accurate.

The next thing that hurts you is tune. A drop in that much pressure could drop your A/F by a whole point. If you were at 12.5:1 tuned at 1kpsi, then your only running around 11.5. Again, this is all assuming you were tuned in the first place. The point is, you can't go changing A/F that much and expect it to make power. So in retrospect, 2 mph is explainable.

Where you inject the nitrous doesn't become important until you start to shoot more than 60 HP. Lots of threads on that topic exist. I inject my Nitrous in front of the air filter, and I'm going 165 to 170 mph. Getting the tune right is much more important.

If you can't reliably control bottle pressure, or if you don't feel like running a bottle heater setup, consider using a nitrous regulator, and tune your setup for a pressure of 700 or 800 psi. Bigger jet at lower pressure work well. I have to put a plug in for the guys at Cold Fusion - after using their regulator for 3 years, I called up and asked about rebuilding the unit and they sent me out all the parts and information for free. Nice company.

 

[busaduivel]

i did learn alot on this board.there is also one thing that you need to check ,your bottle mounting orientation.this is very important.

 

[BATTMAN]

check your plugs after you run. your plugs will tell you everything

 

[Commuta_Busa]

I have to put a plug in for the guys at Cold Fusion - after using their regulator for 3 years, I called up and asked about rebuilding the unit and they sent me out all the parts and information for free. Nice company.

I thought you were running some of Trevor's Highpower Systems LTD. (Wizard of NOS) products?

 

[Draco1340]

I thought you were running some of Trevor's Highpower Systems LTD. (Wizard of NOS) products?

Nope. After years of running extremly complicated nitrous systems, I've gone back to basics. Two 36 jets in the ram air tubes with progressive control and adjustable pressure controller (set around 650 psi) from Cold Fusion. I log pressure and solenoid activation, and as soon as I see pressure fluctuation over 50 psi, I rebuild the regulator. I usually rebuild the solenoid twice a year as preventative maintanence.

I will be adding a second stage spyder system this summer for 3rd gear through 6th after I bump up the exhaust lift and duration, but I like the much softer hit you get with a fogger in the first two gears. My bike comes out of the hole so smoothly and civilized you would swear you were driving a texas caddillac.

 

[Gixx1300R]

Gixx1300R Spray Bar Nitrous 2008 GSX-R750 Video by ????? - MySpace Video

spray bar Video by ????? - MySpace Video

- Performancefirst Dry Nitrous Spraybar 2008 ZX10R[/url]

- PerformanceFirst Single Stage Dry Nitrous Spraybar[/url]

 

[bobber]

Also make sure that your siphon tube is in the right postion, I took mine out because I mounted it in the hump[04 model], Also get rid of that filter,,I do my own refills,,I have a NOS billet inline filter,but not on the bike,,If you know the people well who are filling your bottle and its filtered,,no need for one on the bike,,Its is a hinder to the shot,,,Also by your speech,,it sounds like you dont have a fuel adder[PC ect} just shooting N0S will not give you the HP that is marked on the jet,,,you said you were useing a #28[30 shot hp] you will not get 30 hp without the extra fuel...you need 10% more for that jet by the NOS standards,,Im running a 40 shot[#34 jet],,,,when I first put the kit on,,,I felt the hit but when I pulled over[on my solo run to test the kit],,,I could smell the metal in my exhaust mufflers,,,they were too lean,,I called schnitz raceing and they told me about the need for the extra fuel,,you can go to their site and click on a NOS kit and printout the jetting recommendation chart,,,,So i found a PC on line for 265,00 and it made a huge difference,,my motor stays cool,,im running 16% more fuel @ 7000rpm at full throttle only for the NOS and the extra fuel not only gives you a bigger punch,,it saves the motor,,,,good luck,,,,,,by the way,,,when i first bought my kit from themthey dont recommend anything over a 12hp shot[#18] for a stock bike without a fuel adder[PC ect],,because with a 12hp shot,only 5% more fuel is needed,,,,,

 

[dblock]

Doing all those things said above works I have a Upgraded my NOS to support 100 shot but I had t6o increase the available fuel and get a good after market regulator changed the rail to support the new go go juice but I love it. I have the old Dry system for running around and having fun and the WET for when its time to get ugly.
The research of what works best for you is timely cuz we all ride diffrently and all like diffrent products. I had my system Dyno'd then Had the Staging done on the Dyno so it kicks in where I need it for my altitude. I had another map made when i was at sea level just so I can go between the 2 when needed so the oxygen intake varies.

 

[bobber]

When i built my systom,,,I bought a nice kit from schnitz,,all steel braided lines and used black loom for the wires and the steel braided lines,,although , Its a cleaner job,,the braided lines hidden within the loom takes away the sweet look,but it protects the lines themselves and any wireing that he may come in contact with,,My motor is stock,,to me 50HP shot is allowed without mods,,I have a 40 on it instead,,I also used ryans recommendation of putting the Nozzle in between the ram air tubes to ensure that by the time it goes up stairs into the upper floor of the airbox thru the filter,,,Its a even distribution of NOS on all 4 cylinders,,and I also took into consideration,,that it would also be a softer[turbo like] hit ,,instaed of a direct hit,,I was very tempted to put a spyder configuration on it,,but when I did the math,,I like the bike,,im not going to spray all the time ,,more show than go,,,and Its not ever been raced,,,,private fun,,after talking to ryan at schnitz and pingel HP,,,I dont want to hurt the motor and a direct spray is hard on the drive train,,everythingon a direct hit,,,,I dont have deep pockets,,no sponsors,,im soon to be 50 yrs old with 2 failed hip surgerys,,,I just enjoy the ride ,,It was also opted to me to buy a cheaper kit and aim the nozzle at the temp sensor to get [ so they say 10% more fuel,by tricking the bike into thinking it was still in warm up mode,,,,and thee Pc was 265 bucks,,,but you gotta protect the motor,,I didnt know about gregs rig at the time,,but without extra fuel,,you can only run about 10-12 HP,,,if that anyway,,,Dont get me wrong,,if i had a 2nd bike and deep pockets or a sponsor,,,sure Id make a better build,,Lord knows ,,I know how to,,but I am happy with the way she runs without the PC or Nos,,and with the PC tweaked with this custom map,,,when she getsto the upper rpms,,the motor shows no signs of slaveing,,,cheaper to keep her,,,LOL,,,Although the PC tweaked map gives the bike a few extra ponies alone,,,,It [ from what Ive been hearing lately,,they puke way faster than the factory ECU,,,

 

[FTMFW]

FIXED IT.

got rid of pcIII and the window box, went with ecu editor, and it made some power....now to see what it does at the track....

 

[8secBusa]

Need to shoot it very early.... waiting till late in 1st gear cuts its impact....on a 30 shot in 2nd gear only made .15 and 4mph, then hit it in 1st gear and it lowered the et by ..25-.30 and 6-8mph