Thanks guys for the responses but my main problem is that i don't know the maximum permissible diameter: how wide can be the spacers -not the height of them (this will be variable!)
The soupy's are 1" wide,but i calculated that i need at least 1,3" wide (at diameter) spacer- is this possible or the wider spacers conflict with upper triple tree or top clamp?
Of course i read every related thread before post something new but i don't find this information or a similar concept.
(ok,four bolts only for a self inspection but i am super busy right now and the bike is the only transport..)
@sixpack:your set up seems to be the perfect solution (except optical factor maybe) but i want your feedback about high speeds..
@dadofthree: good one! the handlebar theorem remain unsolved..
I had the 1.5" spacers alone first. They were just ss round stock cut off in the lathe and drilled so a factory size bolt would fit through them. I then bought bolts 1.5" longer.These style spacer lifts can also be bought for around $25.
When I bought the heli-bars the same spacers were cut to .75", as the brake/clutch lines length, and windsheild clearance wouldn't allow the spacers to be any taller. I also needed shorter bolts for this, but longer than stock. The bolts from the 1.5" spacers stick through the bottom too far with the .75" spacers and contact the frame preventing a full turn either direction.
If you remove the handlebar mount(not the upper triple clamp) you'll see that the casting is not flat across the bottom.
There are raised round sections less than 1.25" in diameter around the bolt holes. It is only these four areas and the thin outer trim that actually contact the upper triple clamp. So the difference in structural support with the spacers in is not dramatic. 1" diameter round bar stock is all that is needed, and all that can be used without interference from the casting shape of the underside of the bar mount.
I think it is Soupys that makes a 1" block that fits the casting shape between the bar mount and topclamp, completely filling in the gap.
Unless you are a machinist or engineer (my dad is, he makes me lots of parts
)it is much cheaper and easier to buy this for around $125 than to have someone make it for you. The difference in the block and the spacers is only going to be looks. As mentioned, once you see the underside of the bar mount you'll see that you're really not losing any structural support. Only a very minimal amount that will not cause any issues. The thin outer trim of the bar mount isn't going to do much of anything as far as preventing a handlebar from breaking off.
I rode at least 10k hard miles combined with both setups and never had any issues. That included several thousand wheelies, with a few hard emergency landings in there too.
I definately found each one an improvement. The .75" and heli-bars more so, as the heli-bars actually angle the ends of the bars higher too.
I then switched to the LSL topclamp with dirtbike bars. They are about the same heigth as .75"spacers and heli-bars, but are closer to the rider.
There are several bends of bars available too to get the perfect fit for YOU the individual. The bars are only $20 each too, so it'll be easy to try others. The money is in the top clamp.
They also come with +3" brake/clutch lines. I had to trim the windsheild for these bars too. Only a small half circle cut out is needed at the front edges of the winsheild where it meets the fairing, but I cut out much more(I'll be getting another stock sheild and cutting out the minimal amount soon, as I prefer that look better).
You also need to remove the throttle cable clamp that is on the throttle side of the frame in front of the gas tank(with any of the setups mentioned). Put the bolt back in the hole and you'll never notice the clamp was ever there(you can see the bolt in the pics).
All 3 bar combos mentioned change the bike, obviously. I have done top speed runs, standup wheelies, and dragged knees with all. I have no problem doing any of that either. It's just a personal preference.
I went for a ride a couple weeks ago with a friend on his stock gen2, and we switched for a while.
It felt like 2 completely different bikes. I also have a Corbin seat and Vortex rearsets, so the whole riding position is different.
I still prefer mine, but can do the same things with either bike. It's all what YOU find more comfortable.
Here's pics of all, and let me know if you have any questions.
