Valve Adjustment Service; Should I?

[PADEROLIS]

Okay; I plan to drop my Busa off at the shop later today to get new tires installed (PPR4s), and also planning on having them install my steel braided brake lines while it's in there. My bike is sitting around 25,400 miles and has never had the valves inspected/adjusted. The bike rides great, IMO! The only gripe I have is, when I've ridden a few miles and turn off the engine, then start the bike up again, the engine dies unless I hold the RPMs up slightly. After a few seconds I can let go and it idles fine on its own. It never tries to die once I get moving.
I've posted about this issue before and tips led me to the fuel pump and associated items. All those have been addressed, including doing the external fuel filter mod, but none of it cured the hard to start after engine is warm issue. I haven't priced the valve service but I assume it would cost upwards of around $250-$300? Is that reasonable? Just trying to get things ready for the Busa Stampede in a few weeks.

Just a note: The hard starting issue has been going on for well over a year now and has not gotten any worse. It started all of a sudden right after I filled it with gas before a ride. Initially I thought it was bad gas, but several tanks later, Sea Foam, and Berryman, the issue still exists.

[sixpack577]

Tight valves can cause hard starts.
But they need to be way out to really cause problems. And they are likely in spec.
I've adjusted several over the years, allenhead and box end wrench, and the shim and bucket like the Busa and most sportbikes.
Rarely do you notice any difference after a valve adjustment.
It's easy to do. The only advantage to a shop doing it is that they have shim kits.
So, either you buy an entire shim kit, and use zero to 5 or 6 of them. Or you measure, find what sizes you need, order individually, and wait.
But for $250-300 for shop costs, I'de buy a shim kit and do it myself.
Sometimes you get lucky and can swap shims from different valves and not need any new ones, but don't plan on it.

[PADEROLIS]

Thank you! I actually just talked to the shop where I planned to take the bike, and I was given the quote of $385 for the valve job alone! About $450 for the tires, installed, and about $110 for the brake line install and fluid change. Would tight valves cause hard starting only after the engine is warm, or at all times? The bike starts fine at first start up or after it has sat for a little while.

[sixpack577]

Thank you! I actually just talked to the shop where I planned to take the bike, and I was given the quote of $385 for the valve job alone! About $450 for the tires, installed, and about $110 for the brake line install and fluid change. Would tight valves cause hard starting only after the engine is warm, or at all times? The bike starts fine at first start up or after it has sat for a little while.

at all times

[Turbo-Torch]

I checked my valves last year @ 24,000 miles and all were dead on perfect in the middle of the chart.
A bit of a waste of time but at least it's out of the way and I no longer have to worry about it. Probably won't bother again until 50,000.
I believe if you break a bike in properly (NOT using the retardotune method) and use a quality synthetic oil, it'll be a long time before the valves get out of spec. The recommended 15,000 is probably a CYA for the manufacturer.

Hard starts when hot...I'd suspect coil packs breaking down.

[TheWTF]

I did mine valve inspection at 33,000 miles and only one valve was out of specs - I've paid £250 so it is around $325 (I've done it at Suzuki dealer). I don't know if it was just me but I could hear the valve out of sync when I started the engine, there was like a tapping noise which went away as soon as the engine warmed up. Not the case after doing the valves.

I also had a problem with hot start - exactly the same as you but on occasion even keeping the revs up didn't help. I've replaced the battery and all the problems went away (got the Yuasa YT12B-BS) - although the voltage and everything seemed to fine, it was the cranking amps that dropped (the battery was only 2 years old but may have been faulty - not sure).

I recently replaced the brake lines myself and it took about 4 hours and wasn't too hard. Just make sure you get yourself the bleeding kit (I've got this https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/oxf...4Vw_tYYIMavGAtfBoqvtdRWwF9eV6CN9KEaAnpU8P8HAQ). Here is a video on how to bleed the brakes if you have never done this before:

.

In regards to the tires to save some $$$ you can take the wheels off yourself and take it a tyre shop and just have new tyres fitted. That is what I do and I usually just pay about £15 on top of the tyre price.

[Samaki]

I would recommend getting the valve check done. I recently did mine at 45K miles and had four exhaust valves out of spec on the tight side. The price that you have been quoted ($385) is not bad either; it is quite a tedious task to perform. Of course you can do it yourself for free but this is not a job for the mechanically declined, if you happen to be so.

[ColdBusa]

Download the shop manual, buy a shim kit and do it yourself for sure!

I would also tend to think they will probably be in spec, but it doesn't hurt to check.
How are the plugs looking?
Have you had your injectors cleaned/replaced?

[202mphbusa]

I would do my own brake line WAY before I would attempt a valve adjustment
Checking the vales no problem but to adjust them the cams have to come out

[dave s]

I dought they would be out at 25000,unless the bikes been living on the red line. Personally by putting in the shop I would be worried that they have said they need adjusting even when there in spec. You would never know!!!!

[fallenarch]

Part of the reason to have the valves checked is peace of mind. Do it yourself not knowing what you are doing and you will panic every time the engine clicks! Let a shop do it or pay someone you trust to show you how to do it.

The brakes are pretty simple, and if they work at all they are probably safe enough to trust. Just check the lines regularly for a couple weeks to be sure no leaks. Also be sure to get brake fluid off of painted surfaces right away!

[PADEROLIS]

at all times

Thank you!

[PADEROLIS]

I checked my valves last year @ 24,000 miles and all were dead on perfect in the middle of the chart.
A bit of a waste of time but at least it's out of the way and I no longer have to worry about it. Probably won't bother again until 50,000.
I believe if you break a bike in properly (NOT using the retardotune method) and use a quality synthetic oil, it'll be a long time before the valves get out of spec. The recommended 15,000 is probably a CYA for the manufacturer.

Hard starts when hot...I'd suspect coil packs breaking down.

Thanks for your input! Coil packs; that never crossed my mind! Thanks again!

[PADEROLIS]

Download the shop manual, buy a shim kit and do it yourself for sure!

I would also tend to think they will probably be in spec, but it doesn't hurt to check.
How are the plugs looking?
Have you had your injectors cleaned/replaced?

Thank you for responding, ColdBusa! I recently replaced the plugs myself, they've probably got less than 5,000 miles on them. The closest I've come to cleaning the injectors is running Sea Foam and Berryman through the system. They have never been sent out.

[PADEROLIS]

I did mine valve inspection at 33,000 miles and only one valve was out of specs - I've paid £250 so it is around $325 (I've done it at Suzuki dealer). I don't know if it was just me but I could hear the valve out of sync when I started the engine, there was like a tapping noise which went away as soon as the engine warmed up. Not the case after doing the valves.

I also had a problem with hot start - exactly the same as you but on occasion even keeping the revs up didn't help. I've replaced the battery and all the problems went away (got the Yuasa YT12B-BS) - although the voltage and everything seemed to fine, it was the cranking amps that dropped (the battery was only 2 years old but may have been faulty - not sure).

I recently replaced the brake lines myself and it took about 4 hours and wasn't too hard. Just make sure you get yourself the bleeding kit (I've got this https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/oxf...4Vw_tYYIMavGAtfBoqvtdRWwF9eV6CN9KEaAnpU8P8HAQ). Here is a video on how to bleed the brakes if you have never done this before:

.

In regards to the tires to save some $$$ you can take the wheels off yourself and take it a tyre shop and just have new tyres fitted. That is what I do and I usually just pay about £15 on top of the tyre price.

Thanks you very much for your input, and the video link! I never considered the battery could be the issue! It is a lithium battery that was in the bike when I bought it, the brand escapes me at the moment. With all the extra electronics I have installed, that actually makes sense! I will look into it!

[PADEROLIS]

I dought they would be out at 25000,unless the bikes been living on the red line. Personally by putting in the shop I would be worried that they have said they need adjusting even when there in spec. You would never know!!!!

I've considered that exact thing! Okay everyone, here is what I've decided. I dropped the bike off at the shop on Friday, to get new tires and the valve service done. The tires were a buy here and install is included type of deal. the price for a set of PPR4s with installation is $420. The charge for the valve inspection is $220, however if they do need adjustment it is an additional $80. He said he's not like some other shops where it's a set price whether they need servicing or not. The guy was recommended by my buddy who also rides a Busa, and says the guy is very fair and knowledgeable. The owner has his own built Busa set up for drag, it was in his waiting area when I dropped off mine! He said the bike should be ready by today, no later than tomorrow. This is mainly because the tires needed to be ordered and wouldn't arrive until today.

As far as the brake lines are concerned, my buddy is going to help me tackle it at his house! He recently did his own on his 09, so he says he has everything we need and the know how!

Thanks again, for everyone's input and suggestions!!!

[dave s]

Let us know what he finds

[PADEROLIS]

Let us know what he finds

Will do!

[PADEROLIS]

UPDATE: Just talked to the owner of the shop; he says all valves are within specs and no adjustment is required! He will finish the bike tonight, but I won't be able to pick it up until tomorrow morning.