Turning stock into street drag

[Cyber_Wolf]

Hi guys,

I want to turn my stock 01' into a street drag. Here are my thoughs..any input truly appreciated:

1. I want to put on an air shifter..I was told that the tranny will need to be under cut to do this...Is that correct ? Is it difficult to remove the tranny ?
2. What about the clutch ? Several years ago I installed heavier springs and a part from MTC that keeps the clutch from chattering on launch. I have also heard that it may be a good idea to also install a billet steel basket.
3. Dog bones, and strap the front end...What size bones?
4. Swingarm extension. What is practical for the strip and the street ?

Finally, I think I am going to leave the engine/exhaust stock for now. I just want to get used to the bike on the strip before I start playing with the mill.

I am not new to the srtip. I used to race Kaw triples when I was a bit younger.I have been thinking about doing this for quite some time...I figured I would come here and seek some advice from the guys that are doing it..

Thanks in advance.....!

 

[Commuta_Busa]

Air shifter is a good idea. You don't have to backcut the trans gears.
If it were me, I would have the trans gears back cut by R&D. You have to split the case to get the trans gears out. So if you don't know what you're doing it's gonna be a bit pricey.
Sounds like your clutch setup is fine I wouldn't add a bilet basket, it's just not needed.
For lowering the bike I would go with the adjustable bones and NOT the three hole links. For the front I wouldn't strap it. A better approach is to get a different tripple tree top mount so you can slide the fork tubes up.
Since you're running a stock engine I wouldn't worry about extending the rear until you get your sprockets sorted out, your suspension dialed in, and your tire psi down.

 

[Mr Bogus]

seems strapping the front would be a far better option. Weight shift and inertia are still an issue with a dropped front end, the strap stops this issue

Professor either posted a link or the thread on the 3 or 4 best things to do for drag racing..

I did find a link he posted I saved to Brocks for a kit with the bare necessities:

Brocks Race kit

 

[johnnycrash]

I would do Brocks ultra clutch mod or welded stock clutch hub, lowering strap for front and adjustable dogbones for back, and a 16 tooth front sprocket.

Those things alone will help a ton. And I agree with commuta, stretching isn't really needed yet.

Look at the Brocks site - they have a starter package that is a pretty good deal.

 

[Professor]

1) The tranny should be fine but there is a potential to have 2nd gear issues. Undercutting it will prevent it, but I have seen several last just fine without it. With high HP bikes sometimes mods are needed to make them shift easier. You should be fine. My bike has 250 or more passes on the stock transmission. (but I have a spare ready to go this winter). The engine has to come out of the bike and the cases have to be split to get it out.

2) A billet (still will be aluminum) basket is not necessary until higher horsepower levels or maybe lockups, slippers and slicks. Inspect everything very well. Check for warped steels, and build the stack to 1.98-2.00"￾

3) Start with 2"￾ in the rear might go to 3"￾. You need to lower the front as well. Change the top tree or tree cover so you can slide the forks up an inch. Get the rest with the strap.

4) You mentioned Street Drag. It is going to be difficult hooking on the street. Traction is going to be much more of a problem on the street than the strip. A longer arm is going to make it worse. You'll also need to work the shock and change springs to make the most out of it. It will be more of an issue on the street. I'd say limit it to 3-4 inches on the street and 5-6 inches at the track. Tire will make a difference but there is only so much a tire can do on the street.

 

[Professor]

For lowering the bike I would go with the adjustable bones and NOT the three hole links.

Was wondering why you are against the 3 hole links? I've ran both and while I like the convenience of the adjustable ones, I actually prefer the 3 hole links. Mainly because they are lighter but I go back and forth so much it is easier for me to swap the links and get it back to my exact settings. I have a lift so that may be an issue.

 

[Cyber_Wolf]

1) The tranny should be fine but there is a potential to have 2nd gear issues. Undercutting it will prevent it, but I have seen several last just fine without it. With high HP bikes sometimes mods are needed to make them shift easier. You should be fine. My bike has 250 or more passes on the stock transmission. (but I have a spare ready to go this winter). The engine has to come out of the bike and the cases have to be split to get it out.

2) A billet (still will be aluminum) basket is not necessary until higher horsepower levels or maybe lockups, slippers and slicks. Inspect everything very well. Check for warped steels, and build the stack to 1.98-2.00"￾

3) Start with 2"￾ in the rear might go to 3"￾. You need to lower the front as well. Change the top tree or tree cover so you can slide the forks up an inch. Get the rest with the strap.

4) You mentioned Street Drag. It is going to be difficult hooking on the street. Traction is going to be much more of a problem on the street than the strip. A longer arm is going to make it worse. You'll also need to work the shock and change springs to make the most out of it. It will be more of an issue on the street. I'd say limit it to 3-4 inches on the street and 5-6 inches at the track. Tire will make a difference but there is only so much a tire can do on the street.

Professor, when I said street drag I meant a bike I can still ride on the street. I know what happens when you try to do power launches on crappy asphalt. hehehe

Soo..not undercut needed for that air shifter eh ?

 

[Professor]

Professor, when I said street drag I meant a bike I can still ride on the street. I know what happens when you try to do power launches on crappy asphalt. hehehe

Soo..not undercut needed for that air shifter eh ?

Gottcha... just wanted to make sure you were not trying to get it to hook on the street.

I'd say run it like it is for now. You are talking about more mods to the motor later. Use that as an opportunity to have it cut when it is down. Mine has well over 100 passes with the air shifter. I did have an issue on a couple of passes. I never could confirm what happened and it has put down 20-30 passes since. I will be tearing mine down over the winter to take a look at it. So while it is down it will get cut.

I have seen several busas that have not had issues from drag racing and having an air shifter. Actually I have seen more that were damaged street riding and foot shifting.

As long as the pressure is good, it is adjusted correctly, and the delay is sufficient, you should not have any issues.

 

[Commuta_Busa]

For lowering the bike I would go with the adjustable bones and NOT the three hole links.

Was wondering why you are against the 3 hole links? I've ran both and while I like the convenience of the adjustable ones, I actually prefer the 3 hole links. Mainly because they are lighter but I go back and forth so much it is easier for me to swap the links and get it back to my exact settings. I have a lift so that may be an issue.

I like them better for three reasons.

1. you're not limited to three specific adjustments.

2. you don't have to worry about any interference with the brace that supports the belly wing.

3. ease of use. You don't have to dissasemble things to adjust/change swingarm positions.

For me a like the fact that if I change my preload on the rear shock I can easily maintain the exact same swingarm angle every time.

 

[SANDFLEA85]

make sure you get an onboard compessor with your shifter,I have mps setup, and always have it filled at 120lbs before launch.works great with NOS too.
shinko ultra soft tire is good for strip but sux on the street,so you may want to have two rear rims with seperate tires to just switch them out,doesnt take but 20min to switchout.
lower front AND strap it,i have a custom front strap if your interested,pm me.I have no experience with adjustable lowering links for the rear but have 3hole dogbones and with a 2ton floor jack it takes 10min to raise or lower by yourself.
and your gonna need a kill switch also,dont forget that,you cant race without one