Turbo gen 2?

[wreckwriter]

Hey guys, I've read that one should not turbo it gen 2 without reducing the compression ratio. Obviously this would add a huge expense and amount of effort to the build.

First off, how true this?

Secondly, any better options to greatly increase the power without pulling the motor? Nitrous doesn't seem like a good option due to space limitations and constant refills being needed.

Thanks as always
Tom

 

[01smokes]

That is a lie. You can most definitely turbo a gen2 pump 93 octane stay around 270wheel. E85 keep it around 330wheel factory engine, and enjoy it!

Oh don't do back to back pulls to high gear let it cool down.

 

[202mphbusa]

VALVE SPRINGS!

 

[01smokes]

VALVE SPRINGS!

Not needed at that power. I'd say studs would be needed before springs. But if you are doing one might as well do the other.

 

[202mphbusa]

Not needed at that power. I'd say studs would be needed before springs. But if you are doing one might as well do the other.

Valve springs on gen2 are softer than gen1. Boost pressure on back of valve makes it even worse. Valve float

 

[shade]

Pill the engine. You'll regret it later

 

[01smokes]

Valve springs on gen2 are softer than gen1. Boost pressure on back of valve makes it even worse. Valve float

Mine have never floated yet.

 

[Redcurbjumper]

Stay at 4psi and get a seriously good tune. Respect the fact the ring gaps are set tight from the factory and you will have to cool down between pulls. Watch your fuel quality and get rid of the stock iridium plugs. Detonation is the demon waiting to claim ur motor if you get sloppy. All that said turbo torque is a BLAST,,, !!! If ur not grinning after every twist of the throttle check ur pulse, you may be dead.

RCC and Scott Davis are the best choices for kits = quality components and service after the sale put these guys at the top of the mountain.

 

[VNE]

For what it costs to buy a turbo kit, you may as well pull out the engine anyway because there's still a lot to do.

4 psi is only fun for a while. For the price of a kit, probability says you'll eventually want more power anyway-- which is what I was also told back in 2021.
All that money paid out for 4 psi seems like a big self-limitation. What's a little bit more money in addition to the already large investment? Wait a bit longer if need be and build the engine up to allow higher boost in the future. You'll be glad you did because of the versatility you'll have.

Top and bottom end studs, pistons and conrods. With the oil restrictor removed, the oil pressure is still ok. Use high grade synthetic oils only for a turbo - never use mineral oil. I cleaned out my engine fully and inspected all internals before installing the new parts.

Stiff Valve springs won't be needed for 4 psi. It's just added tension and wear on the buckets for not much gain in HP. Depending on miles, check shim clearances anyway before strapping on a turbo. It's always good to pull apart an engine and inspect the internals for current wear to help determin its health and future. Upgrade the gaskets while you're there, chain and sprockets.
I'd be more concerned about upgrading the clutch springs and a better front brake master (unless you already did that).

Using fuel of too low an octane will cause detonation. Learnt that in pilot school. I raised mine to 98 for my specific build. Yeah it all cost a bit, but I still consider mine a good value build. Once you jump in, just commit to it all the way.

It's not a huge job. Took me (alone) just under 4 weeks from start to finish, 6-14 hours per day, and Sunday's off. Prep in advance with manuals, tools and parts before starting anything. Running to the shop and ordering online is the biggest progress staller. Some specific tools such as the engine mount 4-pin socket 3/8" drive is needed and an impact wrench to remove the fuel injection rail without stripping those poop screw heads.
The list can go on... but just do it YOLO.

 

[Hotstepper]

Pull the engine. I have a rcc stage 2 kit with stock internals runs great but i cant wait to pull the engine. I shouldve did it from the getgo but money ran out.

 

[Hotstepper]

For what it costs to buy a turbo kit, you may as well pull out the engine anyway because there's still a lot to do.

4 psi is only fun for a while. For the price of a kit, probability says you'll eventually want more power anyway-- which is what I was also told back in 2021.
All that money paid out for 4 psi seems like a big self-limitation. What's a little bit more money in addition to the already large investment? Wait a bit longer if need be and build the engine up to allow higher boost in the future. You'll be glad you did because of the versatility you'll have.

Top and bottom end studs, pistons and conrods. With the oil restrictor removed, the oil pressure is still ok. Use high grade synthetic oils only for a turbo - never use mineral oil. I cleaned out my engine fully and inspected all internals before installing the new parts.

Stiff Valve springs won't be needed for 4 psi. It's just added tension and wear on the buckets for not much gain in HP. Depending on miles, check shim clearances anyway before strapping on a turbo. It's always good to pull apart an engine and inspect the internals for current wear to help determin its health and future. Upgrade the gaskets while you're there, chain and sprockets.
I'd be more concerned about upgrading the clutch springs and a better front brake master (unless you already did that).

Using fuel of too low an octane will cause detonation. Learnt that in pilot school. I raised mine to 98 for my specific build. Yeah it all cost a bit, but I still consider mine a good value build. Once you jump in, just commit to it all the way.

It's not a huge job. Took me (alone) just under 4 weeks from start to finish, 6-14 hours per day, and Sunday's off. Prep in advance with manuals, tools and parts before starting anything. Running to the shop and ordering online is the biggest progress staller. Some specific tools such as the engine mount 4-pin socket 3/8" drive is needed and an impact wrench to remove the fuel injection rail without stripping those poop screw heads.
The list can go on... but just do it YOLO.

Those fuel rail screws do suck