starter motor woes

O

OB_bigabusa

Registered
On tuned motors the 'busa has an achilles heal. the starter motor reduction gears and the starter clutch. if the motor kicks back (which it will with high compression big bore)it will keep destoying the above parts. it also twists the spline on the end of the crank. i hope my stroker cranks spline will be better able to cope.

i don't see an easy answer to this one other than keeping the compession down.

i have also heard of the actual case splitting. my Billet case should cure that though.
 
put a kill switch on the bike,so you get the motor rotating then turn on the ignition.this will allow enough momentum to be achieved by motor that the ignition lead won't kick it back.
 
Also I think motorhead already said it did you try heavier cables so the draw is lower and it might not kick back.I assume you are using a billet tensioner.that kick back and back the tensioner off.Too bad it is not like new Saab with the variable compression motor.
 
I thought of the easy solution of keeping the ignition off until shes cranked up but will this cause the FI light to come on. everything else does.If I set up my customers road bikes this way it will obscure any real FI problems if they arrise. remember vertually all my customers are road guys. drag racing is small time over here.(can you blame us with the **** weather we have?). Also could it cause damage to the ECU? Frank I will email you again when I get back to work on tuesday. I screwed up on my Billet dyna starter cover prices.
 
I will try tonight on mine.
I was thinking if you had the emergency stop switch off.and the starter button always hot I don't think it will trip the FI light I will try in about an hour or two.
 
OK I just tried it had kill switch on bar off
and key on crossed the starter motor leads at the seliond and it was cranking then fliped the kill switch on while cranking and it started NO fi light.
It did take a couple of extra seconds due to the fuel pump had to pressurize the rail.
I would suggest to have the pump running while doing this it would be an instant start.But you know how to do that.
Let me know what you think.
 
Biga,

Like Motor said. We do this on high compression "R"'s over 1340cc. Works well. They don't kick back any more. The momentum of the spinning crank is the cure. You can also use heavier cables or battery as JC stated. If the bike has aftermarket ignition, use the retard function while starting.

Dave

[This message has been edited by DaveO (edited 27 April 2000).]
 
daveo ;funny you mentioned the 1340 gsxr.i just did this stuff to that size gsxr at 13.5-1 comp.motor, and it worked wonders.i also put header type heavy insulation on the cases just below and in front of the starter,to keep radiant heat to a minimum.as we know.electric motors lose efficiency when they get too hot.
 
Richard, If you look at any of the cracked covers that has happened from this, you'll see where the weak points NEED more weld. I think the clutch cover cracks first causing the the starter to flex leading to breaking the cases. A billit cover should help all of this from happening but if you at least weld up the weak points before hand I think the chances of problems happening would be less?

Did you get My e-mail from a couple of weeks ago?
 
Why not just turn the FI pump off? It won't start then either. I don't think the plugs still going off would keep it from kicking back as long as there was no fuel to light.

Jamie
 
The injectors would still be firing and there still would be fuel in the rail it would try to ignite any fuel there it also that time to pressurize the rail it is better not to have fire or fuel in the cyl. untill you are ready tro run.
I hope I made sence It has been a long day.
 
Biga,

Sounds like Motor and JC have your answer. The box can't detect a fault if it's not powered up. I would turn the fuel pump on with the starter like JC said.

Dave
 
I think cly filling up with fuel is what causes extra compression leading to kick back.
I'll bet the ones that has had problems, are the guy's trying to start the bikes with a low battery and cracking open the throttle at the same time?! (too much compression)

(a thought?)
 
It was just a thought. I know on my car, I have an electric fuel pump and gauge. If the pump isn't running the pressure bleads back out of the rail eventually. When I start it in the morning the gauge says zero. When the pump comes on it runs right up to where it should be. As far as fuel in the line that leaks in, I had the relay for the pump fail once. The car turned over but never started.


I gave this problem a little more thought after I posted the first time on this thread. I recall in the Summit catalog they have a delay box. You could wire it up to your ingnition power and when the starter is pushed it would trigger the timer which would kick the ignition on after a few seconds.

Just an idea,
Jamie
 
motor has to rotate at a certain speed before any fuel is injected.like the dyna 4000 that has to rotate at a given rpm before it will spark.
 
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