Started paint prep today

BulletTrain

Call me Daddy...
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I finally got started this afternoon preppin' my painter parts for Da' Train's custom paint job. Thought I'd post the first round of pics for you all to take a look at.
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Where do we start? Hmmm, ok... Right off the bat I knew I needed some tunes playin' while I worked on it. You simply CANNOT do paint prep right without music. First step was to pull my beater Maxima up to the garage door, let the windows down and find some suitable tunes.

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Next I snapped a shot of the pile of busa parts I wanted to start on today...

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As you can see, I'm workin' off of the ground. I use a piece of white vinyl fence to keep the parts from comin' into direct contact with the concrete and gettin' little gouges and scratches. I'm gonna build some saw horses and use this piece of fence as a wet sanding table in my shop. I like the fact that the slits between the pickets lets the water run off instead of poolin' up like a normal plastic table would. When you work off of the ground you need a good, small rollin' table to keep yer shid handy while you're workin'. Here's what I've got. Not pretty but it works.

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Now I'll post a few pics showin' the stuff I'm usin' to start prep on the parts. First pic, but not used first, is an aerosol can of SXA-103 alcohol based pre-cleaner for plastics. When workin' with plastic pieces you want to make DAMNED sure you use alcohol based, NOT solvent based cleaners. When you're wipin' on and handlin' plastics you can create a static electricity charge. One spark from that and a solvent based cleaner turns your plastic body part into a great torch and will prolly cook some skin and hair...

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The second product (this one is used first) is the good ol' stand by, Dawn dish detergent. Some other brands are ok, some are not. I always used Dawn.

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See, I told you I needed that li'l rollin' table.
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When you water sand you need a sponge or rag (I'm single and couldn't find a sponge so I'm usin' one of my wash clothes. Married guys should head to the store and buy a sponge unless he's got some suitable rags layin' around. Hehehehehe...) to keep water on the area you're sanding and to wash away sanding sludge as you go so you can assess your progress. You also need some wet-or-dry sandpaper. The grit depends on what you're workin' on and your top coat plans. In this case I'm usin' 3M brand P320 grade paper. I'm also usin' a 3M foam rubber sanding pad to keep the paper flat on the surface so it sands evenly...

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Ok, I don't care what kind of project you're workin' on, you need a box of these handy. In this case I was usin' 'em to dry the parts so I could see if I missed any places with the sandin'...

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Now that we've covered what's needed to get started, let's, ummm, get started. The first thing I needed to do to these used painter pieces was to clean the road crud off of 'em. For that I used some Dawn dish detergent (see above pic if you forgot what that looks like. Hehehehehe...) and water mixed in a bucket like you'd do to wash a car. The Dawn disolves grease and oil and removes it from the parts and get's 'em clean and ready to start on. Just a little squirt in the bucket does the trick.

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Then of course you need water. I got mine from this hose. You can carry it up from the creek if you want, or use a bunch of bottles of the good stuff, but the hose is cheaper and more convenient.
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Before washin' the parts with Dawn, rinse them off good to remove any loose dirt, dust, etc, and to wet down and soften any built up road grime, bug guts, etc...

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Ok, I didn't take photos of the wash step. I think we've all washed somethin' before...

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Now it's time to do some sandin'. Here's a shot of the markings on the back of the 3M wetordry paper. Again, I went with P320 grade because it fits my needs in this case.

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I tore the paper in half so it would fit my sanding pad. Here's a tip that works great when water sandin' with the wetordry paper. Put a small squirt of Dawn into your sandin' water bucket and then fill it with water. Don't use a stream and make a bunch of suds. Instead just take the end off of the hose and let the water run. You'll still get some suds and that's ok, you just don't want more suds than water. The soapy water lubes the paper and keeps it from cloggin'. Also, always put your wetordry paper into the soap/water mix and let it soak for a few minutes. This softens the paper backin' and makes it a little more flexible. Makes it much easier to work with when you're gettin' started.

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Here's a shot of the paper folded around my sandin' pad. Makes for a nice, even sandin' surface and eliminates "finger marks" and ripples in the prepped surface.

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Ok, I didn't take actual sandin' photos for two reasons. One, I had soapy water up to my elbows and didn't want to get the camera wet. Two, I wanted my full attention on perfectly sandin' my parts smooth. This step is VERY important if you want glass smooth results and ultimate adhesion. I want both.
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Here's a shot of the hump sanded to perfection and dried off. After it was dried I cleaned it with the pre-cleaner to remove any sandin' sludge and/or oils from my skin. The pieces will be cleaned several more times during the entire process.

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The goal when sandin' in preparation for paint is to sand the surface down level and smooth, and sand every bit of the paint down to the point that absolutely no gloss is left ANYWHERE. Sanding it level and smooth gives you that glass slick finish. Sanding away absolutely all gloss gives you ultimate adhesion. When you're done, you'll have a smooth, slick surface that has a satin look to it like this.

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The next piece I worked on this afternoon was the underbelly wing. This thing was a BEEEYOTCH in every sense of the word. It had prolly a hundred tiny little nicks and chips in it from rocks bein' kicked up by the front tire. I ended up havin' to sand most of the paint off of this piece down the bare plastic to get rid of the chips. I could have used primer to fill them, but I refuse to take that shortcut. The thicker the paint film build the easier it chips. If I had left some paint on this, primed it to fill the chips, sealed it, base coated it and then clear coated it I'd have far too much paint film thickness in the end and it would probably chip even worse than it did from the factory. Not a good thing!

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Here's a shot of the hump and wing side by side. It took right at two hours just to sand these two pieces to perfection. That doesn't count the time it took to wash all the parts to begin with. That's just careful and deliberate sanding of these two pieces after they were clean. I could have used other techniques and got it done in prolly less than half of the time. The thing is, the results in the end would NOT be top notch. Not my style...

I stopped there for the day so I could clean up and find some dinner. Lunch wore off about half way through the belly wing!
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As I do more prep work and get other pieces done I'll post updates and more pics. Hope you all enjoy the pics.
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BT



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looking good.... I'm gonna guess its gonna take atleast 3 hrs to finish one fairing!!!!
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looking good.... I'm gonna guess its gonna take atleast 3 hrs to finish one fairing!!!!
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It will take a while because I'll have to sand and feather the edge between the two-tone paint breaks in the factory paint. If they were a solid color without the two tone edges to feather out they'd go quicker. The front fender and tail section will take a while, too, due to their funky shapes. It takes care and precision to sand these surfaces right. I could butcher 'em in no time, but I'm not a butcher. You'll see why I go to all this trouble when I post the end results.
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Bt about how much did you spend to get a used set ?
I haven't kept up with it to be honest. I figure you could put together a used body set with minor fixable rash/scratches for maybe $600 or less. The most expensive single part to buy used is a gas tank. I got one with a tiny ding (no paint damage, just a dimple in the metal) for $150 off of ebay. If you take your time and you're not in a hurry you can keep on top of ebay and the various busa forums and get into a spare painter body pretty reasonably.
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Hey BT ... thanks for the pics and dialogue. I for one know absolutely nothing about painting and I'm learning a lot from reading your post ... keep them coming ... knowledge is power. This also makes us all appreciate the time and energy and skills of great painters ... which in turn makes us feel better about paying whatever for a great paint job. Thanks !!
 
Hey BT ... thanks for the pics and dialogue. I for one know absolutely nothing about painting and I'm learning a lot from reading your post ... keep them coming ... knowledge is power. This also makes us all appreciate the time and energy and skills of great painters ... which in turn makes us feel better about paying whatever for a great paint job. Thanks !!
You're welcome.
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 Even though I'm includin' some tricks of the trade, this is definitely not a "put a show quality paint job on your busa" thread. There's so much to paint prep and paintin' that you just can't convey in writing, especially in a forum thread. It would take a BOOK to even try and explain some aspects of just the prep part for absolute "show quality" results. I don't have time to write a book and paint, too. I'd rather paint anyway than to write about it.
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Some of it has to be explained and shown in person to be fully understood and learned. Some of that stuff is why it took two hours just to properly sand these two parts.
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It's funny you mention appreciation of time/energy/skills. Sometimes I think painters are even less appreciated for what they do than cops. I wish I had a dollar for each time I've had someone tell me that they'd let me "practice" on their car and they'd pay for materials. WTF? If they sell insurance, are they willing to practice writin' me a policy for free if I furnish the printer paper they print it on? If they sell cars, are they willing to practice registerin' the car in my name for free if I buy my own tag? Hehehehehe... I'm thinkin' NOT. What makes them think I want to practice my trade for free on their car?
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I've never understood the thinkin' behind that...

I've spent the last 17 years or so learning skills and honing them as close to perfection as I can get them. I'm not gonna overcharge anyone or rip anyone off, but I'm not workin' for free either. I won't cut quality just to be able to cut price either. I'm not interested in doin' cheap, quick spray jobs. I'm only interested in doin' top notch show quality paint jobs (even if they aren't "wild" ones) that will last.

I'm not comfortable puttin' my name on anything less than that. Here's why... Let's say buddy wants his bike sprayed but he really doesn't care if it's not show quality. He just wants shiny paint in a certain color. I could do a quicky prep job on it and knock it out for a decent price. He's happy with it. Now, someone that really wants show quality and knows the difference looks at it and sees the quality as not quite there. He askes, "Who painted yer bike?". The reply? Yep, BT done it. Didn't cost me but $XXX. At that point I just lost this perspective show quality job because the guy that knows the difference now thinks I'm a fly by night sprayer just lookin' to turn paint jobs and make a buck.

Second scenario... I do a top notch job on yer bike. It's absolutely beautiful. The guy lookin' for that kind of work sees it and asks who done it. Yep, BT. In this scanario they prolly won't even ask how much it cost you. They just want my number.
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I'm not knockin the guys who do the lower quality jobs for cut rate prices. There's definitely a market for that kind of job. It's just that a shop/painter can get labeled and lose out on the really nice jobs if they get labeled as the guy who does it quick for cheap. I refuse to paint myself into that corner (pun intended
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). Make sense?
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Dude Awesome step by step and some great Pics as allways... Thanks Bro, Good Stuff... I cannot wait to see the end product.
 
Lookin good Train! Man you are a patient person to be able to put that much time into it and make it right the first time. I'm one to take the short cuts because I'm excited to get it done then be pissed off because it looks like crap. Next thing I know I'm taking the time to do it right the second time round...I'm such an idiot sometimes!! At least I have a do as I say and not as I do policy with my kids...
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Dan
 
Thanks for all the info BT.

I'm with you on the "I'll let you fix my shiot and I'll pay for parts" gig.
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Boy I feel lucky when someone calls me and offers to let me teach my class on their POS!
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BTW - I'll ride out there if you'll paint Suzie for me.
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Very nice, BT! Just like all your other "how-to" threads. Can't wait to see the end product! It will be awesome with a capital 'A'!
 
Lookin good Train! Man you are a patient person to be able to put that much time into it and make it right the first time. I'm one to take the short cuts because I'm excited to get it done then be pissed off because it looks like crap. Next thing I know I'm taking the time to do it right the second time round...I'm such an idiot sometimes!! At least I have a do as I say and not as I do policy with my kids...
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Dan
Thanks Dan.
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It's actually relaxin' for me to take a body piece, take my time, and work it to perfection. It's one of those things kind of like ridin' for me. My mind is so into what I'm doin' that I can't think about other garbage. I get lost in the process. With the right music goin' it's almost as therapeutic as ridin'.

Question to self... Now, why was it again that I am in a line of work that has just the opposite effect in me?
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Thanks for all the info BT.

I'm with you on the "I'll let you fix my shiot and I'll pay for parts" gig.
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Boy I feel lucky when someone calls me and offers to let me teach my class on their POS!
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BTW - I'll ride out there if you'll paint Suzie for me.
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Yeah, come on out, bro. You can practice rebuildin' a Maxima engine while I practice on yer bike. Hehehehehehehe...
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