Second gear is slipping at 50,000 miles.

[keys]

My 05 busa runs fine except under hard acceleration in 2nd gear. The shop says that it's getting rounded. In order to fix it the engine has to be pulled. Since I'm paying for the engine is coming out, and all the labor that it's takes, it must me time to get the engine rebuilt. As you can tell I ride alot, so it needs to be streetable. I want more power but all engine. No Turbo or Super Charger. A good kit will due. I would prefer to remain a 1300cc. What kit would you guys suggest? If you've done this to your bike, what combo did you use, and what are you making at the rear wheel?

 

[Nicholas]

from what i read around here the big bore kit and some cams would do u great. but i have no personal experience with anything like that, just throwing around what ive read on here

 

[sixpack577]

If you "prefer to stay at 1300cc" then just have a basic rebuild. Either a re ring or bore, just enough to clean up the cylinders, and new bearings. A full exhaust, air box mod, and a power commander or better yet, ECU Editor with a dyno tune...if you don't already have these. Combined, all good for around ten hp and smooth throttle throughout the rpm's.
If you change the cams, a couple more hp, and an aftermarket head(expensive) will change your rideability. The bike's throttle response may be a little agressive for what you seem to want. The same holds true for big bore and stroker kits, they are fine for the street, but probably not what you want. Then you're just left with the nitros, sc , and turbo that you don't want.
A rear sprocket with 2, or 3 more teeth would also give you the "feel" of a little more power, and your gas mileage would change only by a couple mpg's. Probably the cheapest and easiest way to get what you're looking for.

 

[djsin]

take it up to a 1347 with new bearings, seals etc... get the sproket..and a good tune

 

[afterhours]

if you want to keep it stock displacement....fog the airbox with a dry system. they are simple and safe and will give you HP you want...with the smoothness and rideablity of a stock engine.

I know you said nitrous was out.....but without adding cc's, your options are limited.

 

[Raw]

Sorry for OT..

I'm just about to buy a 2000 model with 52500 miles on the clock..

Does anybody know others that had problems with the gearbox when the engine has been running so much.. ?

 

[afterhours]

Sorry for OT..

I'm just about to buy a 2000 model with 52500 miles on the clock..

Does anybody know others that had problems with the gearbox when the engine has been running so much.. ?

its not the miles...its how it was ridden that you want to concern yourself with.

 

[Raw]

its not the miles...its how it was ridden that you want to concern yourself with.

Thanks for Your quick answer afterhours..

I was just thinking about that..

I guess that 90-95 % of the miles are driven by touring..

 

[Commuta_Busa]

hmm stock bore...stock stroke... sounds lik some Yoshi cams would fit the bill and clean th head up a little. Tighten the quench too. This all assumes you're got a full exhaust system, smal box mod, and some way to tune the fuel map.

 

[PAPA SNOW]

From the title of this post,,I'd question my 'shop' about how 2nd gear 'slippage' would bring them to decide that the 'gear' is rounded,,,sounds more like 'clutch' time to me,,,???

 

[Destin07]

I had a gen 1 busa that the second gear went out at 10,000 miles and all I did was interstate ride...no burnout, no shifting without pulling in the clutch, no drag racing...its purely a design flaw. NOW I would highly advise you if you are building a motor to pursue the basic 1397 for around 190-200 RWHP and be dependable......but if you want a bike that runs like stock and will last just as long I would not think twice about picking up a RCC stage 1 turbo. Richards kits are HIGHLY reliable and have tons of R&D in them. You can make 250RWHP with a spacer and keep the reliability and driveability of you bike.....no cams that prematurely wear the head, stock bore, stock ect....the motor can stay just as designed. Also consider that your turbo kit can be removed and sold where as any motor work would be much more difficult and not worth it. I considered turbo vs motor for over a year and the turbo wins hands down. Get it installed and tuned to 7lb on 93 octane and you will be making 50hp more than you would on a motor bike and it will still drive like a stock one and even get better gas mileage out of boost

 

[GMbusa]

Don't rebuild, buy a clean low mileage complete engine. Should cost you $1500 for a clean used engine. Also, contact some busa members and do the work yourself!!! You will save SO MUCH cash doing it yourself. It isn't that difficult. Send your transmission parts to Fast By Gast. They will undercut it and make it bulletproof.

 

[UR IT!]

My 02 is slipping in 1st and 2nd with only 24000 miles on it...already swapped out the clutch while praying that was it....but it wasn't. Mostly mountain roads (twisties) high rpm in 1st and 2nd, and hard downshifting did the trick I think. Now just waiting on finding some cash to get her fixed..1347 sounds fun

 

[PAPA SNOW]

Ok, I'm not a bike mechanic by any means,,but I know of NO place in an engine that allows for 'slipping' other than the clutch, now if you're talking about slipping 'out' of gear,I can understand the rounded gear scenario,, just need to know before possibly mine starts 'slipping' ,,,

 

[sixpack577]

Ok, I'm not a bike mechanic by any means,,but I know of NO place in an engine that allows for 'slipping' other than the clutch, now if you're talking about slipping 'out' of gear,I can understand the rounded gear scenario,, just need to know before possibly mine starts 'slipping' ,,,

2nd gear "slipping" is a common gen1 Busa problem. It IS the transmission, not the clutch. This is why you hear of folks having their gen1 transmissions "undercut". $400-$500 average cost for a machine shop to fix the gears.

 

[PAPA SNOW]

Well then I am mistaken,,I was under the assumption that all gears on the input and output shafts were internally 'splined' to be able to slide side-to-side,,but not be able to rotate independent of the shaft,,and if two meshed gears 'slip' at the teeth of the gears,,there would probably be quite a few teeth in the oil pan

 

[Professor]

Well then I am mistaken,,I was under the assumption that all gears on the input and output shafts were internally 'splined' to be able to slide side-to-side,,but not be able to rotate independent of the shaft,,and if two meshed gears 'slip' at the teeth of the gears,,there would probably be quite a few teeth in the oil pan

There is a ton on info on the board on it. When damaged they slip, but not smooth like a clutch slip. It feels more like a very worn chain with missing countershaft sprocket teeth. If you have a clutch slipping it will usually start in the high gears and work its way down. Not the lower gears and then up.

 

[PAPA SNOW]

Thanks Professor, I actually have a turbo on my '06le and have only slipped the 'clutch' in second,,I remember some of the older threads but actually thought they were talking about the bike jumping out of gear,,this is a new potential problem I'll have to watch for,,,

 

[Destin07]

There is a ton on info on the board on it. When damaged they slip, but not smooth like a clutch slip. It feels more like a very worn chain with missing countershaft sprocket teeth. If you have a clutch slipping it will usually start in the high gears and work its way down. Not the lower gears and then up.

Thats EXACTLY how it feels. I pulled over on the interstate the first time my bike had the 2nd gear issue. I accelerated really hard coming onto the interstate and it felt like I was breaking teeth off my sprocket

 

[Professor]

Thanks Professor, I actually have a turbo on my '06le and have only slipped the 'clutch' in second,,I remember some of the older threads but actually thought they were talking about the bike jumping out of gear,,this is a new potential problem I'll have to watch for,,,

It is slipping out of gear, however it drops back in almost instantly.