Running In your bikes....


I am wondering if anyone "run-in" their bikes the hard way? Or did everyone do it as per the manual.

For those that don't know what the 'hard' way is look HERE.

The theory sounds logical, but i am not very technical. If anyone with engine knowledge would care to share their opinion, I'd appreciate it.

Cheers and Ride Safe.
I believe that is where my link led to.....

Would like to know if anyone has actually used the method.

Or someone who has enough knowledge to enlighten me on this subject.
When I bought my 98 vette, the dealer told me I didn't have to ride easy on it's V8 because it was designed to take it in any way shape or form. ...sort of related...
I am curious also if anyone has tried this. My busa dealer told me [have not purchased yet] that I could run it hard and skip the manual's breakin. I believe he had personal previous experience to back that up. This should be interesting.
In ANY case, it's all parts and metal, if something gets whacked, it's replacable [usually].
I'll let you know if I end up doing it HARD.
I have built numerous high performance engines with roller camshafts we have always broke them in the way you are going to run them. But with todays flat tappet cam shafts the manufacturer's are very specific on tyhe breakin process..
Mostly the way the dealer specified with a short burst of the throttle here and there........I also varied the RPM's while on the highway as they specified. Not to run at a steady RPM for the first 600 cruising............hit it.....get off it..........that's what I did.
On the busa I did not take over 8,000rpms until about 400mi. On the gix750. I did not take it over 6000rpms for the first 20mi. Then I was on it.
Thanks to all for your feedback.

I have also heard from the grapevine that new litre or more class of Suzuki's are built to such specifications that no run in is required.

If any of you could confirm this with your Suzuki trained mechs, I'd appreciate this too.
I followed their advice to the letter, and my busa dyno's at 162hp consistently. As from what I gathered, that is on the upper end.

this is what I did-

Warmed the bike up, ran it up to about 50% throttle to 9000 rpms in 1st and 2nd, drove it around wining it out for about 30 miles, and got the oil changed.

AFter that, I drove it fairly hard till the 600 mile service.

After that "go time", was getting on it really hard. Ran petroleum in it until 2000 miles, then put sythentic in it. Bike runs like a dream

Run it hard, 162hp to the rear wheel was the result of my experiement, havent seen a stock busa get that high yet in Tampa

A good friend of mine is Craig Treble, he races for Matco tools in the NHRA Pro Stock Bike class.
His reccomendation to me was to break the motor and trani in the way you want to ride the bike forever. That's exactly what I did.
Remember the bike is under warranty and you want your problems to occur in the first 12 months.
Ride it the way you are going to drive it.............I like that idea coupled with frequent oil changes 50 / 100 +filter/ 150 miles is the way i've went.
I've run her up to 8K but not WFO. I have not yet maintained a steady speed ie; accel & decel over and over again.
I also like the idea that it's only under warranty for a year so I guess now that it's got 300+ on the clock I'm gonna run her up hard now and then.
btw, that has all been done on twistie,hilly backroads with little to no city driving at all.
I guess we'll see.

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Im curious to how bad this is also. I want to get on this thing pretty bad as my second bike its a great jump from my old 03 750 Tuna. Im only worried about the oil they drop in for breakin can it keep the engine lubed at high rmps?
Bought mine with 200 miles on it, put another 75 or so on it then hit the strip first pass 10.38,136mph. Now has about 700 miles on it, best ET 10.07 138mph. Will be back at the stripon the fourth, hope to click in the ninesas is, geared down one tooth with Yosh RS3 slipons. What a hotrod.