riding stance

georgepacura

Registered
I will make this quick w/o too much detail. I Have bad back and can't sit leaning forward for any length of time. I have been looking at more riding position friendly bikes like the new vmax or b-king. But price and availability make it unlikely. So the question. Is there any way to retro fit (w/o breaking the bank) a busa with handlebars that you can sit significantly higher and can the foot controlls be moved forward any. thank you for any positive feedback
 
So the question. Is there any way to retro fit (w/o breaking the bank) a busa with handlebars that you can sit significantly higher and can the foot controlls be moved forward any.

The SHORT answer is NO. They can be improved - but depending on how bad your back is..........

If you want to really sit up more you probably will need a different bike.


So that will most likely be no more sport riding bikes for you.
Sport Touring is the next best thing.

Look at these:

Yamaha FJR
Kawasaki Concours
 
A friend just put this kit on his bike(Gen II Busa)and likes it a lot.Also,LSL and Spiegler both make the conversion kits.Don't think there's a lot you can do about moving the controls/pegs further forward but one of the bar conversion kits will sit you more upright(Heli-Bars will help to some extent,but not as much as these conversion kits).

Motorcycle Accessories: Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa 99-07 ABM Superbike Streetfighter Kit, ABM COMPLETE YOKE & RISER KITS, 154-175

DZUS Fastener Pics - My Bike
 
I also have a bad back with my left leg getting numb most of the time. I heightened my handlebars 2 inches with aluminum bushings from ebay and lowered my pegs 1 1/2 inches with a peg kit from ebay and china and I'm doing much better on ride position. Put it to you this way, I can ride my busa much longer than my goldwing, which has an upright riding position. Before the change to the busa, I could ride it half as long as I do now, hope this helps. If you need links to the sellers, private message me and I'll send them to you.
 
L
I also have a bad back with my left leg getting numb most of the time. I heightened my handlebars 2 inches with aluminum bushings from ebay and lowered my pegs 1 1/2 inches with a peg kit from ebay and china and I'm doing much better on ride position. Put it to you this way, I can ride my busa much longer than my goldwing, which has an upright riding position. Before the change to the busa, I could ride it half as long as I do now, hope this helps. If you need links to the sellers, private message me and I'll send them to you.

Did you already have handlebars or were you able to raise the grips two inches w/o cutting the shield or the fairing corners? Both require cutting for two inches don't they? As for the pegs, don't they scrape in just about every corner?
 
I had an 08 Busa for 3 1/2 years. I had some old injuries and then 3 buldging discs in my lower back.
I put 1.5" spacers under my handlebars. An improvement, but not enough. I then added Heli-bars, and had to cut the spacers to .75".
The 1.5" spacers, and the .75" spacer/heli-bar combo both cleared the inside of the stock gen2 fairings and winshield and used stock length brake/clutch lines.
Both were an improvement, but still not enough for me. I also tried 5 different seats.
Then, I bought a Spiegler bar conversion. A big improvement...but still not enough for me.
The Busa seems like it was designed for someone whose arms were twice as long as their legs. The gas tank is simply too long for me to be comfortable. The Busa does everything well, but I find it's riding position too agressive.
I traded the Busa even for an 08 B-King, and didn't regret it at all.
The B-king was heavier than the Busa with a higher center of gravity. So I sold it after a year and a half.
I will be buying another GSXR 1000 next. Even with a bad back and knee problems, I find them much more comfortable with a shorter reach to the bars.
My friend has an 09 GSXR 1000 with dirt bike(Spiegler) bars, and it the most comfortable bike I've ever ridden.
I'm also 5'10", 170lbs, with a 33/34" inseam, and I can flat foot the Busa and 1k easily. The B-King had my heels off the ground.

The B-King can also have the ecu flashed to a Busa, the exhaust mid-pipe opened, and ram-air added. This will make it just as powerful as the Busa, as it's the same engine. It's a great touring/cruising bike, but as expected reaches it's cornering/knee dragging/ handling limits much sooner than a Busa and then a 1k.

If the Busa is bothering your back, I'de get rid off it before spending alot of money trying to get it to where you want. As you may be able to, or you may not.
Good luck with it.
 
L

Did you already have handlebars or were you able to raise the grips two inches w/o cutting the shield or the fairing corners? Both require cutting for two inches don't they? As for the pegs, don't they scrape in just about every corner?

1.5" is as high as you can go with spacers and/or Heli-bars.
Thats's also the length limit for stock brake and clutch lines.
Spiegler bar conversions can require trimming of the winsheild behind where it meets the fairing, depending on which bend of bar you use.
Spiegler bar conversions have the bar mount machined far enough back on their top clamp so that their bars are far enough away from the inner windsheild and fairings so that they do not make contact their.

Also, on the gen2; if you are using spacers and/or Heli-bars, you will need to remove the brake line clamp on the frame.
The clamp is small and just to the bottom front of the tank on the frame, on the throttle side.
It's a small bolt(I forget the size, probably an M8) has a 10mm head. Remove the clamp, put the bolt back, and the lines then have enough slack. You'll never notice the clamp is gone.
I have a couple threads with pics and different bars somewhere.
 
1.5" is as high as you can go with spacers and/or Heli-bars.
Thats's also the length limit for stock brake and clutch lines.
Spiegler bar conversions can require trimming of the winsheild behind where it meets the fairing, depending on which bend of bar you use.
Spiegler bar conversions have the bar mount machined far enough back on their top clamp so that their bars are far enough away from the inner windsheild and fairings so that they do not make contact their.

Also, on the gen2; if you are using spacers and/or Heli-bars, you will need to remove the brake line clamp on the frame.
The clamp is small and just to the bottom front of the tank on the frame, on the throttle side.
It's a small bolt(I forget the size, probably an M8) has a 10mm head. Remove the clamp, put the bolt back, and the lines then have enough slack. You'll never notice the clamp is gone.
I have a couple threads with pics and different bars somewhere.

I second the above. You may not have to trim the windscreen with a Spiegler/LSL/ABM (why so many names for it??) mod. I didn't. I've used the Zero Gravity touring and the regular ZG windscreen, and the screen at full lock fits nicely between the clutch/brake reservoirs and the plastic bits on the handlebars (drawing a blank on the name!). Maybe a thicker windscreen, like the stocker, would need cut, but mine don't interfere at all and I was happy to keep the nice uncut look.

And I love my handlebars, not only HIGHER, but FURTHER BACK! So comfy. My only complaint is that with the new top triple tree, my key doesn't turn to "lock" now and it makes me nervous about security.
 
I have back pain too. My Dr. flat told me to do sit ups and drop 25 pounds. I was so depressed I went to Hooters and ate two orders of chicken wings and a 4 beers! LOL, Jeff's post seem's reasonable!
 
And I love my handlebars, not only HIGHER, but FURTHER BACK! So comfy. My only complaint is that with the new top triple tree, my key doesn't turn to "lock" now and it makes me nervous about security.

Try this. I have one on my rear rotor and with the front locked, it has to be carried or dragged. It will not roll, not even an inch.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I second the above. You may not have to trim the windscreen with a Spiegler/LSL/ABM (why so many names for it??) mod. I didn't. I've used the Zero Gravity touring and the regular ZG windscreen, and the screen at full lock fits nicely between the clutch/brake reservoirs and the plastic bits on the handlebars (drawing a blank on the name!). Maybe a thicker windscreen, like the stocker, would need cut, but mine don't interfere at all and I was happy to keep the nice uncut look.

And I love my handlebars, not only HIGHER, but FURTHER BACK! So comfy. My only complaint is that with the new top triple tree, my key doesn't turn to "lock" now and it makes me nervous about security.


I put the Spiegler bars on my gen2.
With the bar bend that comes in the kit...you MUST trim the stock windsheild.
No amount of adjustment will prevent the bars, master cylinders from hitting
the windsheild's front lower sides where the sheild meets the
nose fairing.
I have a thread somewhere with install pics.
 
I put the Spiegler bars on my gen2.
With the bar bend that comes in the kit...you MUST trim the stock windsheild.
No amount of adjustment will prevent the bars, master cylinders from hitting
the windsheild's front lower sides where the sheild meets the
nose fairing.
I have a thread somewhere with install pics.

Dave(Ghost Geezer on the other site)did the ABM kit on his Gen II and had to trim the corners of the screen(think he's still using the stock screen if that makes any difference),couple of his pics in the link:

Rodney Did Some Tuning.............
 
I guess every bad back is different, the riding position is good for me. Sounds like you need to buy a bagger and enjoy your ride friend.


:welcome: to the oRg :thumbsup:
 
I put the Spiegler bars on my gen2.
With the bar bend that comes in the kit...you MUST trim the stock windsheild.
No amount of adjustment will prevent the bars, master cylinders from hitting
the windsheild's front lower sides where the sheild meets the
nose fairing.
I have a thread somewhere with install pics.

Yeah - must be the stock screen? My gen II master cylinders don't have a problem at all - the clutch MC just kisses the inside of the windscreen, but it's flexible enough that it just moves a millimeter or whatever out of the way.

Try this. I have one on my rear rotor and with the front locked, it has to be carried or dragged. It will not roll, not even an inch.

Thanks - I'm checking in to it now! Looks better (more secure) than the Abus alarm disc lock I have, but hey, why not use both? And a 6' 9/16" diameter ABUS 14KS chain with a ABUS 37RK/80 KD Granit Extreme Security padlock (all of which I use when I park it - one of the reason I have all the Givi luggage - to haul my anti-theft! lol). I think I'm too afraid of my bike being stolen since I moved from Alaska...


Dave(Ghost Geezer on the other site)did the ABM kit on his Gen II and had to trim the corners of the screen(think he's still using the stock screen if that makes any difference).......[/url]
Does anyone else have the ABM kit with an aftermarket uncut screen?

IMG_2657.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
IF you want decent performance reasonable riding position a great bunch of helpful people on a good website at a reasonable price consider a ZRX. Many for sale with desirable mods or others left more or less alone. Reliable with very few if any problems THE
Very street friendly Motor is pretty much bullet proof. and it has a nice old school look with modern convienience. The lady and I toured on one extensively for 18 years Mine is on the left with a lot of "improvements" :) try ZRXOA in your google box or ask C10

fullsizeoutput_9f.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I went with a 1¼" Genmar riser and Helibars. I experimented with 1¼" spacers first because the Genmar isn't cheap. It improved the seating position dramatically, but sixpack577 might be spot on, a bike with different ergos might be your best bet.
 
I will make this quick w/o too much detail. I Have bad back and can't sit leaning forward for any length of time. I have been looking at more riding position friendly bikes like the new vmax or b-king. But price and availability make it unlikely. So the question. Is there any way to retro fit (w/o breaking the bank) a busa with handlebars that you can sit significantly higher and can the foot controlls be moved forward any. thank you for any positive feedback

Interesting, my back is pretty bad from years of dirt biking and lots of dirt bike crashes. I find the position on the Busa a whole lot less strain on my back than a bike where I have to sit upright. The triangle between bars, seat and pegs on the standard stock Busa takes all the pressure out of my spine, so it fits me like a glove. For me back pain, especially if I bend down to pick something up has become a normal way of life, but on the Busa it disappears. I am also a competitive cyclist and can do 100 miles, 5-6 hours on the little seat leaning much further forward than the Busa and it also takes all the pressure off my spine, the only times I have no back issues. On the Busa, the secret is not to support your weight with your arms, use your torso and back to support your stance. Or, just keep the speed above 100mph, the wind will do the work for you.:D
 
Back
Top