refilling and bleeding clutch

u r nvus2

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ok I have been searching for hours and I guess havent found what I am looking for. I recently had to upgrade some parts on my 330 OSd kit which required me removing the clutch fluid line from the bottom resvoir in front of the left front foot peg. Of course fluid leaked out. It was off for more then a week and I am at the point now where I want to refill and bleed the line. I reattached the mount screw for the line and preceeded to fill upper resevoir ( near clutch handle) I filled it and sealed it back up. I have no pressure in my clutch leverI have pulled the lever many many MANY times and still have no pressure, I have lossend the bleeder and nothing. The upper resevoir seems to still have the same amount of fluid in it. Ihave tried pulling the lever with the bleeder opened/closed/ mounting screw for the line attached/losend/removed and still nothing. I cant imagine it take hundreds of pulls on the lever to build the pressure. How long does this usually take? Am I doing something wrong? suggestions? lol........ It seems that the fluid just will not move from the upper reservoir through the line to the bottom reservoir. I am all ear:please:
bike is an 08
 
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I am trying to help...but I have not done this myself. I would suggest taking off the cover to the master cyl and fill it up as need during the next few steps. Pull the clutch in a few times (4-5) and see if it builds pressure. If it does cool..if not hold it in (against the bars) and with the clutch pulled in open the bleader by the sproket...tighten the bleader and release the clutch lever...pump it up again...hold the lever in and open up the bleader and air/fluid should some out...and repeat the process till you have a stiff lever. Just make sure the master cyl does not run out of fluid while bleading.

Please somebody correct me if I am wrong...I hope this helps you out.

Ryan
 
Two things that I can think of trying would be one: Get a mighty vac and that should most likely solve your problem. Secondly, try removing the hose from the master cylinder on handle bars. Then give a slight pull to see if you get fluid coming out. Be extremely careful with this because brake fluid will peel the paint on your bike and anything else it touches. At least with the second test you will know where the problem area is. :beerchug:
 
I have read about the mighty vac, but I just cant believe you cant do this job without buying tools to do so. NICK I am not sure what you mean by give the hose from the master cyclinder a "pull" after removing it from the master cyclinder. I have pumped the clutch lever a bunch of times and then opened the bleader and nothing.
I am trying to get this done without having to run for parts/tools, and finish tonight if possible, otherwise it will have to wait a few days i it requires more
 
1.the rubber thingy goes to the top ie. fluid first then the rubber thingy then the metal cap. leave the metal cap off for now
2. fill up the reserve..pump the clutch(make positively sure the clutch rod is in properly).
3. loosen the fluid bolt thingy attached to the hose down below until a little fluid begins leaking out to fill the line. then tighten & refil reserve
4. while pumping the clutch keep it held in as if changing gear, while you slacken the bleeding nipple to get the excess air out while moving the piston. should be good after a few bleeds.
5. we need some freaking pics of the fatty.

:worthless:
 
heres the bike and i want to ride her someone help

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just keep goin at it...hold the clutch in & bleed...over & over & over & over......6 times.....u now start...there's an easier way to do this but i never saw anyone do it...this is how i do it & eventually it becomes good...remember the clutch is not as hard as you may think too....after pumping it ur hand kinda looses the feeling for the tension...
 
I was gonna flush the clutch fluid out myself, but my mechanic has a neat little tool that he hooks to his air hose and flush the fluid out really quickly.
 
I have pumped the clutch lever thousands of times today and blead it and all I get is a slight sound of air comming out the bleader when I crack the bleader open. no fluid no pressure no nothing
 
Open master cylinder reservoir. Fill with fluid. Pump handle 5-10 times... hold down. Crack bleeder on the slave cylinder. Make sure you don't leave it open for an extended period of time, just crack it for a second and then close it. Continue doing this and you should be good to go.

Of course this is assuming all of you lines have the proper washers on the banjos and your not allowing the reservoir to run dry, sucking in more air. This will take awhile to do even if you do have everything right. It's just a pain.
 
Sorry I have never tried this on the a clutch yet but I put new braided brake lines on and it took probly 15-20 times out opening the bleeder to finally get any fluid through the lines. I flushed the lines and empied the reserviors before I started removeing the lines. So if the lines are empty it can take a while, if I'm correct the clutch line is quite a bit longer than all the brake lines. So just keep at it.
 
Guys I got it finally. I was missing the second washer that goes on the bajos to the slave cylinder. once I put the sexond one on I pumped, help it engaged and cracked the bleader then shut it and started pumping again and repeated till fluid was there finally comming out the bleader. My entire system was empty when I started this so it took a while. plus with only one washer it was allowing air to escape bc once the second washer was added( like it was suppose to be all along) the fluid seemed to come out the bleaader not long after. I bled it a few times with a stream of fluid dripping out before I came back inside. I believe I should be good:thumbsup:
 
You can make a proper tool if you have an air compressor, some fittings, a spare container that would hold pressure, a regulator, and a spare fluid reservoir cap. You would drill a hole in the cap and connect it to the container via fittings (container over cap). You would then put the regulator into the top of the container. Fill the container with brake fluid once it is attached to your reservoir and then using the regulator and shop air, fill it with about 30 psi. This will cause a positive pressure on the system to force air out when you open the bleed screws. :thumbsup:
 
Good goin...the trick i found out is to have a piece of vacuum hose on hand...fill the reserve...fit the vacuum hose over the bleed nipple then use ur mouth to suck it out till the fluid comes out...tighten the bleeder.....pump the lever to extend the piston...refill the reserve if necessary....all should be good in the hood
 
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