Recommendations.......
- Thread starter Odyssey
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I check my tires, chain and cables before each ride. I use Sikolene racing chain lube (its a dry lube and less messy).
I think the most important upgrades (for me anyhow - big rider) are suspension and brakes. Get the suspension setup for your weight and riding style. I did the rotors and master cylinder but a set of braided lines will work.
Go out to your local track and do some track days. A club at my track (Portland Int Raceway) does full track days w/instruction for $175. Three different classes for diff skill levels. Beware though, once you start riding on the track you'll want to ride the street less and less. It'll humble you the first time you get passed by bike riding two-up.
I think the most important upgrades (for me anyhow - big rider) are suspension and brakes. Get the suspension setup for your weight and riding style. I did the rotors and master cylinder but a set of braided lines will work.
Go out to your local track and do some track days. A club at my track (Portland Int Raceway) does full track days w/instruction for $175. Three different classes for diff skill levels. Beware though, once you start riding on the track you'll want to ride the street less and less. It'll humble you the first time you get passed by bike riding two-up.
Speeddevil
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is it true that you cannot feel the effect of the dyno w/o changing to a after market exhaust?
If you get the bike properly dyno tuned, you can ditch the TRE altogether (unless you are doing top-end and haven't opened up the ECU). If you do a TRE, personally, I'd just do it yourself with a 5¢ resistor instead of a $75 one.
You probably won't notice much by dyno tuning a bone stock bike, since it was optimized (give or take production tolerances) from the factory. Its the mods that require fine tuning of the fuel mapping.
On the chain, I'd personally avoid waxes. Almost every day, I place mine on its stand, run a toothbrush with spray lube (WD-40 and the likes) on both top and bottom and then drip gear oil with the wheel rolling. I have 12K on my current chain and it's well within tolerance. It will probably see another 12K before it is replaced. With waxes, I was stretching chains no matter what I did. My method (which is really 'by-the-book' more or less) is messy, but I'd much rather spend my money on gas than premature chain wear (that's an extra 3-4K miles in gas, BTW).
You can also get a Hawk or Scott oiler to automatically lube while you ride... again, a bit messy, but you have to ask, do you ride to ride, or ride to show?
You probably won't notice much by dyno tuning a bone stock bike, since it was optimized (give or take production tolerances) from the factory. Its the mods that require fine tuning of the fuel mapping.
On the chain, I'd personally avoid waxes. Almost every day, I place mine on its stand, run a toothbrush with spray lube (WD-40 and the likes) on both top and bottom and then drip gear oil with the wheel rolling. I have 12K on my current chain and it's well within tolerance. It will probably see another 12K before it is replaced. With waxes, I was stretching chains no matter what I did. My method (which is really 'by-the-book' more or less) is messy, but I'd much rather spend my money on gas than premature chain wear (that's an extra 3-4K miles in gas, BTW).
Yeah... about those track days....There are is only one place to that...The Indianapolis 500 Motor Speedway, Indy 500/Brickyard. They dont really like motorcycles on that track. The only other place is at the IRP and i think they only have a drag. Are there any others anyone knows about nearby (within 300 miles). Im in the center of indiana.
Speeddevil
Registered
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td> (Narcissus @ Aug. 04 2002, 04:14)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">If you get the bike properly dyno tuned, you can ditch the TRE altogether (unless you are doing top-end and haven't opened up the ECU). If you do a TRE, personally, I'd just do it yourself with a 5¢ resistor instead of a $75 one.
You probably won't notice much by dyno tuning a bone stock bike, since it was optimized (give or take production tolerances) from the factory. Its the mods that require fine tuning of the fuel mapping.
On the chain, I'd personally avoid waxes. Almost every day, I place mine on its stand, run a toothbrush with spray lube (WD-40 and the likes) on both top and bottom and then drip gear oil with the wheel rolling. I have 12K on my current chain and it's well within tolerance. It will probably see another 12K before it is replaced. With waxes, I was stretching chains no matter what I did. My method (which is really 'by-the-book' more or less) is messy, but I'd much rather spend my money on gas than premature chain wear (that's an extra 3-4K miles in gas, BTW).
You can also get a Hawk or Scott oiler to automatically lube while you ride... again, a bit messy, but you have to ask, do you ride to ride, or ride to show?
[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
sorry but what a ECU and how do you opened it up ...
in the past i've been only riding bone stock bike w/o any mod.
so i'm not quite used to some of the term use here thanks
but my mechanic told me that WD-40 is not good for the chain ... is it true
You probably won't notice much by dyno tuning a bone stock bike, since it was optimized (give or take production tolerances) from the factory. Its the mods that require fine tuning of the fuel mapping.
On the chain, I'd personally avoid waxes. Almost every day, I place mine on its stand, run a toothbrush with spray lube (WD-40 and the likes) on both top and bottom and then drip gear oil with the wheel rolling. I have 12K on my current chain and it's well within tolerance. It will probably see another 12K before it is replaced. With waxes, I was stretching chains no matter what I did. My method (which is really 'by-the-book' more or less) is messy, but I'd much rather spend my money on gas than premature chain wear (that's an extra 3-4K miles in gas, BTW).
sorry but what a ECU and how do you opened it up ...
in the past i've been only riding bone stock bike w/o any mod.
so i'm not quite used to some of the term use here thanks
but my mechanic told me that WD-40 is not good for the chain ... is it true
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td> (Narcissus @ Aug. 04 2002, 04:14)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">If you get the bike properly dyno tuned, you can ditch the TRE altogether (unless you are doing top-end and haven't opened up the ECU). If you do a TRE, personally, I'd just do it yourself with a 5¢ resistor instead of a $75 one.
You probably won't notice much by dyno tuning a bone stock bike, since it was optimized (give or take production tolerances) from the factory. Its the mods that require fine tuning of the fuel mapping.
On the chain, I'd personally avoid waxes. Almost every day, I place mine on its stand, run a toothbrush with spray lube (WD-40 and the likes) on both top and bottom and then drip gear oil with the wheel rolling. I have 12K on my current chain and it's well within tolerance. It will probably see another 12K before it is replaced. With waxes, I was stretching chains no matter what I did. My method (which is really 'by-the-book' more or less) is messy, but I'd much rather spend my money on gas than premature chain wear (that's an extra 3-4K miles in gas, BTW).
You can also get a Hawk or Scott oiler to automatically lube while you ride... again, a bit messy, but you have to ask, do you ride to ride, or ride to show?
[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
How do you know when the chain is within specs?
Also, I tried the oil and PJ1 route, but here in Nevada, it is so damn dusty that the chain looks like poop after a ride or two. I am JUST using WD-40 now. The chain has less "grit" stuck to it, the bike looks cleaner, and the chain spins free. I guess I fail to see how any lubricant could prevent stretch...?
You probably won't notice much by dyno tuning a bone stock bike, since it was optimized (give or take production tolerances) from the factory. Its the mods that require fine tuning of the fuel mapping.
On the chain, I'd personally avoid waxes. Almost every day, I place mine on its stand, run a toothbrush with spray lube (WD-40 and the likes) on both top and bottom and then drip gear oil with the wheel rolling. I have 12K on my current chain and it's well within tolerance. It will probably see another 12K before it is replaced. With waxes, I was stretching chains no matter what I did. My method (which is really 'by-the-book' more or less) is messy, but I'd much rather spend my money on gas than premature chain wear (that's an extra 3-4K miles in gas, BTW).
How do you know when the chain is within specs?
Also, I tried the oil and PJ1 route, but here in Nevada, it is so damn dusty that the chain looks like poop after a ride or two. I am JUST using WD-40 now. The chain has less "grit" stuck to it, the bike looks cleaner, and the chain spins free. I guess I fail to see how any lubricant could prevent stretch...?
I found this the other day, it has alot of info on the chain lubes, and lubing the chains
Chain Lube article
Chain Lube article
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