I am still wondering how in 3 pulls and 18 mins the gain and dip????
I was thinking the same thing. Were you somehow running richer than 10 to 1 and then tuned to 13.0 to 1 and suddenly gain nearly 30hp? I've run it that rich for nitrous and only lost 20hp. Something seems fishy. Is it me but is 180hp+ a bit optimistic for a stock Gen I with only a Sidewinder? Unless they are using an old DJ 150 or a MJP dyno, that # seems elevated.
ok i asked him and here's the deal, he asked me if i wanted him to Dyno it for Nitrous or HP, i asked him if he dyno'ed it for nitrous if it would run like poop when im not using the NOS, he told me it would run a little rich at full open throttle but nothing too bad, so i asked him to give me the best dyno tune he could give me for nitrous and non-nitrous use.... does that make sense or am i losing yall again?
what is a instant rich box? im pretty new to moding the busa for performance so try and be patient...jaja
The Fast FI Mixture Control has an instant rich feature to work with Dry Nitrous Systems. It locks the fuel injection system in a full rich mode instantly via a signal from the Dry Nitrous System. This means no more reprogramming for NOS operation. As per MPS website.
Use a progressive controller and NOS comes on progressively and it is less of a shock to your engine parts..properly set-up it should make the bike pull out the door without power falling off at high rpms. Degreeing the cams also helps. Progressive controllers make the power way more linear and useable...less of the pogo stick effect....
I see your point. We have done them both ways, on the button and progressively and the progressive guys have better short times through 60' to 330' mark.for big shots or long runs but for a 50 shot and 1/4 mile no need it takes time for prgressive to work and kills sselinoids(I know spelt wrong)