rear 190/55 r17?

Hello mates,

Just a wild thought of using Dunlop's Mutant as my Battlax S22 will be soon too worn.
So the question is, will I invalidate any of Suzuki's limitations and specifications if using 190/55 r17 for the rear wheel?
I read the drawbacks regarding mileage, also the trade-offs about cornering, but will I anyway WORSEN the bike's grip and safety?

I happened starting riding in 2022 with a Kawasaki Versys 650 for which I had ordered Mutant, then I rode under the most adverse conditions, including emergency break under dense hail (a taxi driver...), no issues!

That's why, but again perhaps it is too risky to put a tire destined for adventure to a sport bike...?

I am beginner, so my questions sound naïve.

rgds
I ran Mutants for a season. I liked them. I used them for gravely sand roads in the fall. Because of the tread cuts they do have some play to them when pushed aggressively. But overall a good tire. Just depends on how hard on the throttle you are in the corners. To give a comparison I run usually Pirelli Supercorsa SC3. So I was asking wayyy to much out of that Mutant lol.
 
I use a 190/55 on my busa and I like it. I even used a 200/55 on my ZX-14 and I liked it even more. Turns in quicker and has a larger contact patch which according to science doesn't cause better grip but I think scientific theory and real world application can often be different. I'll trust a larger contact patch over a smaller one.
-"has a larger contact patch which according to science doesn't cause better grip." Say what now?!? I have not heard that, I thought conventional wisdom was the opposite. Who says that and what is the reasoning?

-The bigger tire is supposed to cause increased lean angle, which is one reason I'm probably not going to go that way. Can you confirm on the 200? What did your ass gyro say?
 
Hello mates,

Just a wild thought of using Dunlop's Mutant as my Battlax S22 will be soon too worn.
So the question is, will I invalidate any of Suzuki's limitations and specifications if using 190/55 r17 for the rear wheel?
I read the drawbacks regarding mileage, also the trade-offs about cornering, but will I anyway WORSEN the bike's grip and safety?

I happened starting riding in 2022 with a Kawasaki Versys 650 for which I had ordered Mutant, then I rode under the most adverse conditions, including emergency break under dense hail (a taxi driver...), no issues!

That's why, but again perhaps it is too risky to put a tire destined for adventure to a sport bike...?

I am beginner, so my questions sound naïve.

rgds
the /55r17 brings more agility because it lifts the rear round 10 mm
so the "Eifel"-area is ur most beloved one then .
 
-"has a larger contact patch which according to science doesn't cause better grip." Say what now?!? I have not heard that, I thought conventional wisdom was the opposite. Who says that and what is the reasoning?
That is correct. This subject comes up once in a while. If your rear tire was the same thickness as a bicycle tire, the increased heat into the rubber will actually give you better grip, until you blow out the tire. Unfortunately you will probably blow out the tire before you even reach the first corner.

The force needed to break traction is the down force x coefficient of friction. Contact area is not part of the equation.

The larger your contact patch, the less work the tire has to do and less heat is generated.

First year college applied math, might even be taught in some high schools.

 
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I ran Mutants for a season. I liked them. I used them for gravely sand roads in the fall. Because of the tread cuts they do have some play to them when pushed aggressively. But overall a good tire. Just depends on how hard on the throttle you are in the corners. To give a comparison I run usually Pirelli Supercorsa SC3. So I was asking wayyy to much out of that Mutant lol.
I think of putting here some photos of my current battlax tires for the experienced riders of the forum to tell me what my riding style appears to be, because I really am a beginner old farty rider!
 
Just had a set of Michelin Road 6 tires mounted, in the hope of getting a bit more miles.

Not impressed with the amount of weights needed to balance them, that is never a good sign when it comes to best practices in tire manufacturing.
Also my factory mounted battlax have lots of weights...
 
Just had a set of Michelin Road 6 tires mounted, in the hope of getting a bit more miles.

Not impressed with the amount of weights needed to balance them, that is never a good sign when it comes to best practices in tire manufacturing.
Either tire manufacturing or how the rim is out of balance....
 
Either tire manufacturing or how the rim is out of balance....
Rims are good. My Pirelli’s needed almost no weights, neither the Bridgetons fitted by the factory.

image.jpg
 
-"has a larger contact patch which according to science doesn't cause better grip." Say what now?!? I have not heard that, I thought conventional wisdom was the opposite. Who says that and what is the reasoning?

-The bigger tire is supposed to cause increased lean angle, which is one reason I'm probably not going to go that way. Can you confirm on the 200? What did your ass gyro say?
If you put that tire on your rim, you'll see the cross sectional view is more of an ellipse. The stock size tire has a circular cross section shape. The elliptical shape has flatter sides with a more pointy top. Flatter sides = a larger contact patch. The higher, more pointy top makes it fall in easier. It's not night and day but it is very noticeable when you ride the bike and you'll feel the additional height in the rear when you sit on it. One other thing to consider is that the rim is designed to safely fit the stock sized tire. You can research tire aspect ratios if you want but I've had no problem squeezing a little wider/taller tire on my rims. The bead has always set just fine until I replaced the tire.

LOL I don't make a habit of pushing my skill up to its limit but in the rare instances I do, I have more confidence in a tire with steeper sides to the outer tread. The bike will always fall into a corner easier and that will be something you will notice whether you're pushing your cornering skills or not. Most of us will wear the center down before the sides of the tire. As the tire gets closer to worn out on the center, it still has a round cross section like a stock sized tire would. A stock sized tire will look flat across the center when it's worn out and it doesn't turn in so well. Brand new tires are always great but a 190/55 will compensate for the typical center wear through the life of the tire. I don't want to specify the exact aspect ratios of the tires I have used as it is a safety issue but I'll say I have strayed from the OEM spec sized tire and always preferred that tire profile for performance. Never had an issue with the beads failing. Of course, you have to be reasonable when choosing a motorcycle tire size. LOL you shouldn't use a tire meant for a rim that is a huge amount wider than your rim is. I wouldn't.

As to the science, look it up. Grip doesn't correspond to the size of a contact patch according to science. A tiny, skinny tire with a quarter inch contact patch should hold its grip just the same as a tire with an inch and half contact patch. That's what the engineers tell us but I'll bet they don't ride motorcycles and if they do, they go pretty slow. Look to the real world of racing and see what they use in the real world.
 
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As as a sidenote, I have used race slicks on the street too and I thoroughly enjoy them! I will look for a slick designed for low temps because I'm sure I never get my tires up to track temps on the street. I have never had a single issue with cold tears or exceeding the limit of heat cycles. I run the slicks a thousand miles/one year on the street without a problem. They cost less than DOT tires and they look a lot cooler. They are illegal on the street. Are they necessary on the street?? No, not for how I ride but I think I have ridden them pretty aggressively. I absolutely do not ride in the rain and I'm careful about damp rods or dusty roads. Still, I made it through a heavy downpour at highway speeds on slicks. I was very careful but had no warning signs at all. That's why I was careful, I didn't want any warning signs.
 
This was a nice one. OK it was a 200/55/17. I probably wouldn't go any wider. If it squeezes in at the sides a bit, that will make it a little taller and flatten the sides of the tread. Weight is an issue too. A taller tire is going to weigh at least a pound more and it's rotating mass.

Metzler.RaceTecs.busa2.jpg
 
That is correct. This subject comes up once in a while. If your rear tire was the same thickness as a bicycle tire, the increased heat into the rubber will actually give you better grip, until you blow out the tire. Unfortunately you will probably blow out the tire before you even reach the first corner.

The force needed to break traction is the down force x coefficient of friction. Contact area is not part of the equation.

The larger your contact patch, the less work the tire has to do and less heat is generated.

First year college applied math, might even be taught in some high schools.

Mind GIF

Everything I know is a lie!
 
If you put that tire on your rim, you'll see the cross sectional view is more of an ellipse. The stock size tire has a circular cross section shape. The elliptical shape has flatter sides with a more pointy top. Flatter sides = a larger contact patch. The higher, more pointy top makes it fall in easier. It's not night and day but it is very noticeable when you ride the bike and you'll feel the additional height in the rear when you sit on it. ...
Thanks for the well written info, but this is stuff I already know. How about the wider tire needing more lean angle? Would you say that's not something you really noticed or felt? I've had 200's on my gen 1, but what I'm remembering may have been backwards. In my mind I had more grip, so I could lean farther and I felt faster. But maybe I needed to lean more for just the same apex speeds.

I think I'm fully addicted to the torque hit coming out of corners at easy cruising speeds, and when I buy new rubber I may stick with the standard 190/50 (more contact patch at upright angles).
...Look to the real world of racing and see what they use in the real world.
Agreed. This contact area not being part of the coefficient of friction is really slapping my brain around. They sure like fat contact patches at the drag strip though...
This is like having it explained to me that an old Mercedes convertible made a really good car in the snow. A heavy car with narrow tires will have more grip than others. It can really flip your thinking, and now I'm looking at the extra hundred pounds of the Busa over a liter bike with fresh love! More grip!!!
 
By the looks of it (no feedback), a failed experiment.
I better get the Continental Conti-Sportattack 4, as most buyers give high ratings for dry and wet.
I put the Sportattack on my B-King (trying for more mileage, tread gone at 4k) and the ride was horrible, felt every crack in the road, and they turned in like a truck tire, very heavy. Went back to Metzeler M9rr and the bike felt like it weighed 50 lbs less
 
Thanks for the well written info, but this is stuff I already know. How about the wider tire needing more lean angle? Would you say that's not something you really noticed or felt? I've had 200's on my gen 1, but what I'm remembering may have been backwards. In my mind I had more grip, so I could lean farther and I felt faster. But maybe I needed to lean more for just the same apex speeds.

I think I'm fully addicted to the torque hit coming out of corners at easy cruising speeds, and when I buy new rubber I may stick with the standard 190/50 (more contact patch at upright angles).

Agreed. This contact area not being part of the coefficient of friction is really slapping my brain around. They sure like fat contact patches at the drag strip though...
This is like having it explained to me that an old Mercedes convertible made a really good car in the snow. A heavy car with narrow tires will have more grip than others. It can really flip your thinking, and now I'm looking at the extra hundred pounds of the Busa over a liter bike with fresh love! More grip!!!
In riding, I really don’t notice the difference between a 50 and a 55, other than my speedo is a tad more accurate.

I have been riding 55’s, but I think they actually wear a little faster for normal street riding.

The 55 looks nicer, we have a bit more rubber.
 
Just had a set of Michelin Road 6 tires mounted, in the hope of getting a bit more miles.

Not impressed with the amount of weights needed to balance them, that is never a good sign when it comes to best practices in tire manufacturing.

I have found that my Snap-on tire balancing machine likes more weights than when I static balance them on my stand.
And when I put the machine balanced wheel and tire on my static stand, it's correctly balanced...like I have been doing by eye for ages, on this stand, countless tires, with never an issue...only less weights...
Go figure
 
How about the wider tire needing more lean angle? Would you say that's not something you really noticed or felt? I've had 200's on my gen 1, but what I'm remembering may have been backwards. In my mind I had more grip, so I could lean farther and I felt faster. But maybe I needed to lean more for just the same apex speeds.
We're really talking about a taller tire. A tire put on a rim that is slightly narrower than the tire was intended for is definitely going to compress that tire at the beads just a bit. What is compressed in width has to go somewhere and that would be outward. The diameter of the tire increases a little. The tire becomes taller. That is what was suggested to me. I really don't know if it's true or to what degree it's true but I definitely see an elliptical profile to these slightly wider tires as opposed to a circular profile with stock sized tires. It could be the wider tires are actually designed to have that shape. I'm pretty sure liter bike wheels generally call for these aspect ratios and liter bikes are much more designed for cornering than our big ol busas. Whatever the case may be, these tires are TALLER than the stock tire when installed to the stock rim. I definitely feel the extra height in the saddle. It doesn't take much extra height in the rear to increase a bikes response to turn in. An extra quarter inch will be noticeable. I'm sure road racers shim their shock a quarter inch or even less to achieve this effect. The rear is lifted, the forks are more straight up and down, rake is steepened, the bike turns quicker.

I don't believe the tire height or profile has an impact on the lean angles required. Lean angle requirements are all due to speed and the size of the turn radius. I don't even think the weight of the bike has anything to do with lean angle. Seems to me if you ride your bicycle at 30 mph and make a turn with a 20 foot radius, you lean the bicycle as much as you would lean your busa while doing the same speed in the same corner. Leaning a two wheel vehicle is all about transferring the centrifugal force caused by cornering. A bike is stable while straight up and down and headed in a forward direction. All the weight of the bike is centerd and focussed straight down through the bike and exerted on the lowest point of the bike (the tire contact patch) by gravity. Turn the bike and now you have centrifugal force competing with gravity. The centrifugal force has the same effect on the bike's stability that gravity does. You maintain stability of the bike in a corner by making the centrifugal force do the same thing as gravity does while the bike is standing straight up. While leaning in a corner, the centrifugal force is transferred and centered over the lowest point on the bike to keep it stable just like the force of gravity is centered over the lowest point on the bike when it is straight up and down. We lean to counteract centrifugal force because centrifugal force becomes as strong or stronger than gravity in a turn depending on how fast we are going and how sharp we are turning. If you didn't lean, the bike would high side due to centrifugal force exceeding the force of gravity. LOL That actually sounds pretty damn good for a guy with Fine Arts degree! If anyone with the background can help out on that, please have at 'er! These thoughts are mostly based on my intuition.

So dcn, I don't think the wider tire which probably is becoming a little taller tire than it was meant to be on the proper rim has any impact on your lean angle. IF you are going faster, that DOES require more of a lean than if you're going slower. Maybe that's why you felt you had tp lean the bike harder with a taller tire, you were going faster. Most definitely, a taller tire lifts the tail which steepens rake a few degrees. That, you will feel in the increased twitch in the steering. It really doesn't take much to create a noticeable effect. As for wider contact patch equalling better grip, I think @jellyrug nailed it. It sounds like he knows the theory and has practical experience.

This contact area not being part of the coefficient of friction is really slapping my brain around. They sure like fat contact patches at the drag strip though...
Yeah they sure do! Look at the huge tires! An extreme example is the top fuel dragster. What I have been told is that the bigger and wider the tire is, the more matter there is to absorb tire heat. These tires don't have better traction because they have larger contact patches, they have better traction because they resist melting under 11,000 hp! Now look at the front tires of the dragster. They're like a bicycle tire but they have plenty of grip as long as they're touching the ground. Drivers have to keep that dragster straight and they need adequate grip in the front tires. They trust in a tire skinnier than a 600 cc sport bike tire to steer that dragster at 300 mph. Interesting to ponder all of this but I'm with you, I just trust a larger contact patch when I'm turning hard. LOL I'm not thinking about why I trust it when I'm riding the bike, I just trust it.

It's been so long since I used a stock sized tire on either of my bikes that I really can't compare how fast I corner with one or the other. To be perfectly honest, I think my skill has the most impact on how fast I corner. I probably would corner as fast on a stock sized tire. I've gone with lighter rims, aftermarket suspension and race tires. I'm not so sure any of those add up to higher speed in corners for me. It's a big bike, it corners well but it's still a handful no matter what you do. I can feel the improvements in equipment, I'm not so sure I'm good enough to really put them to their best advantage. It is really cool to feel it though.
 
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Look at the huge tires! An extreme example is the top fuel dragster. What I have been told is that the bigger and wider the tire is, the more matter there is to absorb tire heat. These tires don't have better traction because they have larger contact patches, they have better traction because they resist melting under 11,000 hp! Now look at the front tires of the dragster.
It's very simple and easy to explain.

We measure pressure in pounds per square inch.

The formula thus is: Pressure =( Pounds weight of the dragster)/(Square inches of rubber contact to the pavement)

So in short, the more square inches for rubber in contact with the pavement, the less pressure there is between the rubber and the pavement.

With less pressure between rubber and pavement, the tire has to do a lot less work.

The reason in pure math theory wider tires don't make any difference in traction, is because the wider the tire, the less pressure between asphalt and rubber, so it cancels out completely in the traction formula.

In pure math: Traction = Force x Coefficient of friction

In the real world, we cannot apply pure math though, there are simply too many other variables:

A thinner tire heats up much faster, so the coefficient of friction changes fast, which makes a difference in traction.

Scates on an ice rink, the blades actually deform the ice, which changes sideways traction outside of what is accounted for in the formula.

If you are on a loose dirt road, a thinner tire makes more of an impression in the dirt, which changes everything.
 
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