Real Street Class Build

[michael parris heuberger]

Hi. Did you get the the Penske shock that is 1 inch shorter and you can get a Ti spring. And more Ti bolts y ? Alao if you am One Stop Speed top and bottom tree you can get it for the shor neck and 1/2 -- offset. Also are you cut rail? You can call me at 508-496-3312.

OK, Parts starting to roll in.
Also Anyone know how to change the thread title, since it is going to be more of a Bracket/Index build.
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[michael parris heuberger]

Hi. Did you get the the Penske shock that is 1 inch shorter and you can get a Ti spring. And more Ti bolts y ? Alao if you am One Stop Speed top and bottom tree you can get it for the shor neck and 1/2 -- offset. Also are you cut rail? You can call me at 508-496-3312.

Hi. I have done almost everything to a busa and still keep it streetable. Street about 400 HP. Race on VP C 16 and VP M1 800 to may 1000 HP.

 

[Robudda]

I got standard height with adjustable ride height. I currently wasn't planning to go short neck at the moment, but was thinking of cutting the rail.

 

[sportbikeryder]

I got standard height with adjustable ride height. I currently wasn't planning to go short neck at the moment, but was thinking of cutting the rail.

If you ever want to run the Realstreet class, you are not allowed to cut the rail on the frame....that said, a GEN2 clutch also is not allowed unless you keep it all motor, but all motor is tough to keep parts together...

 

[Robudda]

If you ever want to run the Realstreet class, you are not allowed to cut the rail on the frame....that said, a GEN2 clutch also is not allowed unless you keep it all motor, but all motor is tough to keep parts together...

Ya, after some research I realized, I am too heavy and really don't want that amount of money into this build at the moment. It is going to be more of a Bracket/Index build. I just can't figure out how to change the title. LOL

 

[sportbikeryder]

Ya, after some research I realized, I am too heavy and really don't want that amount of money into this build at the moment. It is going to be more of a Bracket/Index build. I just can't figure out how to change the title. LOL

I think that is a good choice. Go out and have fun with the bike. Class racing for heads up classes has some pretty deep water to try to keep your head up and out of :-)

 

[Robudda]

Some more parts arrived. DME swingarm & chain guard, DME triple tree clamp. Swingarm nitrous clamp.

 

[Robudda]

Installing the swingarm this weekend, and the DME Triple Tree Clamp. How much lower is safe to slide the forks up before having to cut the forks? I will not have the front fender on.

Also planning on next purchase. So need some advice.
- eventually will go bigger bore and bigger hit of nitrous, What exhaust is recommended? Is Voodoo Sufficient or Cry once and go DME or Brocks?
- Recommended Nitrous kit / Want to start out around 50 shot until rebuild motor.
- Recommended Teeth on Front and Rear Sprokets
- I know I can flash the ECU for that amount of nitrous, but want to just go to a stand alone system, with a LCD screen to replace all the gauges. Any recommendations?
-Still not sure what rims these are but gonna use for now. Searching it seems like the front right rotor/caliper is typically the one remove, but both these seem to be the same on both sides. So assuming I can just remove the left so I don't need to get a longer brake line.
- I decided on the MTC Gen 2 Multistage Clutch
-Recommended clutch/brake levers and grips for drag racing to replace then one pictured below.
- Is there any other good forums to find Drag Bike info? You all have great knowledge, but feeling I should be able to search a lot and gather more info. With no Drag strip near me it is hard to get help locally.
- Last thing is a pic of the stock swingarm next to the DME Swingarm.

 

[Dnyce]

Psycho bike forum is dead but still has lots of good info in old threads. many ppl cross post so some of the info is also here. Also remember u not reinventing the wheel, it’s a busa with a gen2 clutch and a shot of n2o, basically as common as a McDonald’s cheeseburger so don’t overthink it.

If those grips and levers are comfortable, keep ‘em. Won’t make u any faster or slower.

You could probably start with 17/48

 

[Dnyce]

A low, long, gen2 clutch, stock motor bike will run 8’s once setup right without n2o. That’s with no fancy carbon wheels, all 3 rotors, flat pan and sidewinder, stock extended arm.

So don’t think u have to go crazy to have fun out there, FUN is the point of this, since u said u plan on running summit. Depending on how competitive u wana get, check and see if u can run a delay box at your track. I prefer a pro tree but some places are only full trees or u can split the tree. Full tree, delay box, can make u deadly if your lights are slow but consistent.

 

[Dennis]

Installing the swingarm this weekend, and the DME Triple Tree Clamp. How much lower is safe to slide the forks up before having to cut the forks? I will not have the front fender on.

Also planning on next purchase. So need some advice.
- eventually will go bigger bore and bigger hit of nitrous, What exhaust is recommended? Is Voodoo Sufficient or Cry once and go DME or Brocks?
- Recommended Nitrous kit / Want to start out around 50 shot until rebuild motor.
- Recommended Teeth on Front and Rear Sprokets
- I know I can flash the ECU for that amount of nitrous, but want to just go to a stand alone system, with a LCD screen to replace all the gauges. Any recommendations?
-Still not sure what rims these are but gonna use for now. Searching it seems like the front right rotor/caliper is typically the one remove, but both these seem to be the same on both sides. So assuming I can just remove the left so I don't need to get a longer brake line.
- I decided on the MTC Gen 2 Multistage Clutch
-Recommended clutch/brake levers and grips for drag racing to replace then one pictured below.
- Is there any other good forums to find Drag Bike info? You all have great knowledge, but feeling I should be able to search a lot and gather more info. With no Drag strip near me it is hard to get help locally.
- Last thing is a pic of the stock swingarm next to the DME Swingarm.

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My thoughts ...
Almost all the answers here depend on how fast you want to go, and what you are willing to put up with. I have bought a lot of parts multiple times as I continue to want to go faster. It would have saved me money to skip all the stuff in the middle and go to what I have now, but I guess it's a journey as they say.

Exhaust - this is like discussing oil. Some people will be very sure one or another is the best. My experience is that a Murray or Vodoo big tube works fine.
Nitrous - I put my own systems together. You can contact user @Gixx1300R to get set up with what you need. I would suggest getting the system you will want in the future and just use smaller jets until you want more.
Sprockets - again, you will get lots of different answers here. It depends on how your bike is set up, bike weight, rider weight, etc. Currently my bike is set up 18/42 on a slick, so definitely higher geared than stock. This lets me spray more off the line. Other guys like steeper gearing and less nitrous off the line.
ECU - the stock ECU with flash will work fine for 50 hp nitrous. My experience with standalones is mostly Maxx ECU, but the Fueltech we put on my buddy's bike (my old bike) works well. Each has its own advantages. I believe the Maxx is the most versatile, particularly with the software. The Fueltech has a built-in accelerometer and a very nice delay box. The packaging is nice because the small dash is also the ECU. It does not have a built in wideband so you have to buy an add-on unit.
Wheels - those look heavy. You can remove either rotor.
Levers - I found I liked the stock levers for a hand slider when running a .400 pro tree. It's really personal preference.
Forum - Facebook has several groups, but nothing like the old days of forums.

 

[Robudda]

Fitting the swingarm, and as you can see in some of the pictures I went ahead and cut the seat rails while I was out there. The Cut seat rail pieces came in at 13.2 Oz. Please excuse the messy garage, have this and the harley project going and trying to make room for the Mustang to get started on that.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Fitting the swingarm, and as you can see in some of the pictures I went ahead and cut the seat rails while I was out there. The Cut seat rail pieces came in at 13.2 Oz. Please excuse the messy garage, have this and the harley project going and trying to make room for the Mustang to get started on that.

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Hi. Very nice work. Here is a hint that a XDA Pro Street racers told me and I am having it done. Move the swingarm pivot up 12mm's. Also 1 Stop Speed sells a 1/2 negative bottom tree. I also have a output shaft bearings support for sale but it will not fit is you move the swingarm support up.

 

[Robudda]

Thanks for that info, will look into that for the future. I messaged you about the output shaft bearing support.

 

[Robudda]

I have my next parts ordered.
Voodoo big tube headers
Voodoo 2" Billet oil pan
Pair Block off Plates
Oil Block off plate

Here are some of my next decisions:
Wheel options I am thinking about:
1 - Run my aftermarket rims I currently have (Same weight as Stock) and down the road go Carbon fiber with 16" front wheel
2 - Core Moto Wheels Cheaper than Carbon fiber and not as much hassle as finding good condition R1 wheels and all the conversion parts.
3 - R1 wheel conversion cheapest with just a little weight savings.

Lowering front end Based on my final decision above:
Trac Dynamics slammerz: Was thinking of installing 2" or 3" lower with these. With the 2" pan was thinking if I stay with 17" front wheel would do a 3" lower leaving me around 3" ground clearance, if I am going to a 16" wheel in the future would just do a 2" to also in the end have about 3" ground clearance.

Rear Sets:
Want to get them lower and back but still keep my rear brakes with the sidewinder exhaust. looking into rear set options or adding a hydraulic hand brake.

While waiting for the above parts will be doing cleanup, paint frame black (Just outer so do not have to drop engine for now) May powder coat down the road when I do a bigger engine build. Air Box mod and heat tape airbox.

 

[MonkeyButtRides]

While waiting for the above parts will be doing cleanup, paint frame black (Just outer so do not have to drop engine for now) May powder coat down the road when I do a bigger engine build. Air Box mod and heat tape airbox.

Can't wait to see this rolling all done up!!

 

[Robudda]

Was not expecting to get until next week, that was fast shipping.

 

[Dnyce]

Might be faster to end the forks out to get lowered internally if u can’t do it yourself, last few ppl that ordered trac slammers never got them. Perpetually out of stock.

Keeping back brake isn’t hard, all Nhra tracks require it and most check for it so good idea there. I’d leave the wheels for now

 

[Robudda]

Dnyce - That makes sense. It is about the same price and I can have DME do the forks , cut radiator and lighten the brake rotors all at once.

Also decided to run the wheels I have for now, and eventually goto the Core Moto wheels.
Also getting the DME rear sets and add extension.

- Hope to pull the trigger on the above in the next week or two.

Oil pan / Pair block offs / oil block off installed. Hoping to get to the exhaust tomorrow.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Dnyce - That makes sense. It is about the same price and I can have DME do the forks , cut radiator and lighten the brake rotors all at once.

Also decided to run the wheels I have for now, and eventually goto the Core Moto wheels.
Also getting the DME rear sets and add extension.

- Hope to pull the trigger on the above in the next week or two.

Oil pan / Pair block offs / oil block off installed. Hoping to get to the exhaust tomorrow.
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Hi. Is any work on the done? In place of the block off places studs and nuts you could just put a pipe plug in.