Real Street Class Build

[Robudda]

Just Joined the forum and just picked up a 2006 Hayabusa to build into a Drag Bike. I use to Drag Race a KZ1000 way back in the day and really want to get back into drag racing. This will be a Drag only bike, gradually building towards the real street class. Unfortunately I am in Utah and no longer have a Drag Strip here, and very few drag racers left.

Build plan for the bike is to gradually build for the Real Street Class with the horsepower coming last. I would rather buy one swing arm instead keep switching out, even if not optimal with current horsepower. Currently I am heavy at 285. But heading the right direction, seeing how I started at 315.

I am trying to research as much as possible on my own, but will probably have loads of questions as we go. I will be starting with swing arm, shock, lowering bike, losing weight for the bike and me, and allowable clutch parts. so any recommendations, places to gather info for Real Street class builds, etc would be greatly appreciated.

Rules I will be building towards: https://xdaracing.com/rulebook/2023/realstreet.pdf

 

[Bumblebee]

Just Joined the forum and just picked up a 2006 Hayabusa to build into a Drag Bike. I use to Drag Race a KZ1000 way back in the day and really want to get back into drag racing. This will be a Drag only bike, gradually building towards the real street class. Unfortunately I am in Utah and no longer have a Drag Strip here, and very few drag racers left.

Build plan for the bike is to gradually build for the Real Street Class with the horsepower coming last. I would rather buy one swing arm instead keep switching out, even if not optimal with current horsepower. Currently I am heavy at 285. But heading the right direction, seeing how I started at 315.

I am trying to research as much as possible on my own, but will probably have loads of questions as we go. I will be starting with swing arm, shock, lowering bike, losing weight for the bike and me, and allowable clutch parts. so any recommendations, places to gather info for Real Street class builds, etc would be greatly appreciated.

Rules I will be building towards: https://xdaracing.com/rulebook/2023/realstreet.pdf

View attachment 1666271

Welcome,

I like the color already....it's a good looking, clean bike....

 

[sportbikeryder]

If you have any questions, post them here (or somewhere lol). I work with quite a few bikes for XDA in Prostreet, and have done realstreet bikes as well.


Engine is basically unlimited for both nitrous and turbo.
Hand clutch only for both
Nitrous allows longer wheelbase

To be competitive at all, you will likely need to get down below 220lbs range rider weight. That said, the calss is VERY competitive and it is difficult to run with the front of the pack.

To come out and have fun, you can be any weight, and either turbo or nitrous. Of the 2, turbo will probably be eassier on parts if you arent trying to push it too hard. Both will be hard on parts if you push it hard. ;-)

 

[Robudda]

Thanks for the info. My goal weight is around 205. Most of the time I will be running sportsman motorcycle around the west coast (NHRA). But looking to travel and meet new people and race at new places. Getting Trap speeds during these races would eliminate me from any grudge class. But ultimate goal is find a 1/4 mile heads up class I can afford. And just starting to look around. I just figured the real street might be a good goal to strive for.

 

[Dnyce]

1/4mile heads up on the west coast is not gonna happen. Summit and division brackets is all we got out here.

There was pro extreme, basically anything goes, that did a few races here and there but haven’t heard them doing anything lately.

 

[Robudda]

So to open up my options (Bracket classes, 5.60, 4.60 classes. Who makes a rigid back half for the Hayabusa. This bike will never see the street while I own it. Looking at old posts I am having a hard time finding an active builder that website still works, so not sure who is still in business of building a back half section. Thanks again for all the info and insight.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

So to open up my options (Bracket classes, 5.60, 4.60 classes. Who makes a rigid back half for the Hayabusa. This bike will never see the street while I own it. Looking at old posts I am having a hard time finding an active builder that website still works, so not sure who is still in business of building a back half section. Thanks again for all the info and insight.

Hi. I think everyone is using a shock don't know anyone using a rigid frame. They may be some people making a strut to replace the shock look around for that. Call DME.

 

[Dnyce]

Back half with a bar, double b fab on Facebook makes em. Bill bair. He also makes full chassis. Fbr also makes full chassis.

Plenty of ppl just put a strut and bar on the stock frame and hot lap bracket race.

I forget who but someone made a badass back half for a class that never came to be, factory extreme I think. Like mini pro stock bike.

 

[Robudda]

Thanks for the info. I was looking at the Strut info after Michael mentioned it. Trying to gather info on a 12 over (Thinking around 70" wheelbase) extended swing arm, strut, with a bar.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Thanks for the info. I was looking at the Strut info after Michael mentioned it. Trying to gather info on a 12 over (Thinking around 70" wheelbase) extended swing arm, strut, with a bar.

Hi. My are ie 6 to 12 it is a Mc Intos but Terry made it he sold the company and now the suck. I get most on my parts from DME. They are building me a turbo header from Inconel steel.

 

[Dnyce]

Here

https://m.facebook.com/people/Double-B-Fabrications/100054574293969/

 

[Robudda]

Thanks all for the info. Between the comments here and I got a hold of a few people, to compare pros, cons, prices, etc. of Rigid setup vs swingarm and shock. I ended up reaching out to Dustin Lee as he is around the same weight as I am and has been very successful in various Bracket classes. Goal is to eventually be in the 7-8 second in the 1/4 running Brackets, and maybe give 5.60 index a shot eventually.

So with that I ordered some parts for round one of orders, knowing I will be starting out with stock engine, and a engine build and Nitrous or Turbo at a later time.

DME swingarm 5.5" adjuster 71"-76.5
Penske 8975 Drag Shock with adjustable ride height
DME Upper Clamp
Woodcraft Clip Ons
Woodcraft key switch eliminator
Brocks Window Rear Lowering links
And Of course working on lowering weight of bike and myself.

Future rounds of ordering:
Airshifter
MTC GEN II Clutch
Extended Tail
Lighter wheels
Sidewinder exhaust
Lowering front end (not sure what all I want to do, still researching)
Electronics Holly ?, 2 step etc.

I am sure that list will grow.

 

[Dennis]

Seems the two most popular ECU's for bikes are Maxx and Fueltech. They each have their advantages depending on what you want to do. When you get serious about it hit me up. What you probably don't want to do is buy a bunch of electronics to work with a stock ECU then take it all off for a standalone.

 

[Dnyce]

Dustin is still on the Holley train I think tho. He is super successful, he been doing it forever too. And he’s got great customer service.

My opinion:

ME swingarm 5.5" adjuster 71"-76.5
Penske 8975 Drag Shock with adjustable ride height
DME Upper Clamp - should let you lower front some
Woodcraft Clip Ons
Woodcraft key switch eliminator
Brocks Window Rear Lowering links - lowers back
And Of course working on lowering weight of bike and myself.
Airshifter

MTC GEN II Clutch - not needed but if you know u gonna buy it eventually, just slap it in there whenever u put the arm on it. Dustin will give u a good setup for it.
Extended Tail - put the tail on when u put the arm on.

You should be in the 8’s stock motor at this point, plenty of room to spare for 5.60.

Second round - just bcuz u wana go 7’s really
Lighter wheels - r1 or new new gsxr wheels are lighter than the Busa on the cheap side, marvics or bsts on the pricey side. Don’t need bsts to run 7’s lol but if your wallet supports it, and u like em, go for it.

Some motor work, smallish (depending on how much weight u lose) shot of nitrous

Sidewinder exhaust and Flat oil pan, get real low

Lowering front end
Electronics Holly ?, 2 step, etc

 

[Robudda]

Thanks Dennis and Dnyce for the info, it is always appreciated and very helpful.
I am not sure I mentioned it but I am located in Utah and our Drag Strip closed down, which means traveling to race. And not very many drag racers left around here, so all the guidance and help here is awesome.

Tear Down has started. a few Thoughts and Questions

1. Jeez the head lights on this bike are so heavy between the main light and the HID ballasts. Does anyone make block off plates to add into the holes when lights removed. Of just get a new upper?
2. Picture added. Never understood spike parts on a motorcycle. LOL I ride a Harley touring bike for my road cruiser and it happens on those and sport bikes.
3. What other clutch options are available to get started. I will eventually go slider, but I will be going to a lot of races by myself and would like to drive back to the pits, without assistance until I meet more people that are will ing to push me back.
4. Was planning on a wheel swap as Dusting said the Gen 1 wheels are pretty heavy

 

[Dennis]

You can get an MTC slider with a ride back system if you like. You could also get an MTC Gen2 or a Hays Revolution hand slider which will let you ride back. There are companies that make block-offs for the headlight, but honestly if you are doing a drag bike it makes life simpler to get a fiberglass 3/4 upper instead of the multiple pieces of stock bodywork, as long as your class allows that. R1 wheels are probably the best low cost option for lighter weight, but I'm not sure how that works out for a rotors on a Gen1.

 

[Dnyce]

Those aren’t stock wheels, they might be light already. And they look decent

 

[Robudda]

Those aren’t stock wheels, they might be light already. And they look decent

I will have to weight them once removed and compare to the other wheel options.

Also for Drag Racing what balancing method are typically used? Is bead balancing safe as to get the ugly weights off the rim.

 

[Dennis]

Also for Drag Racing what balancing method are typically used? Is bead balancing safe as to get the ugly weights off the rim.

I don't balance mine.

 

[Robudda]

OK, Parts starting to roll in.
Also Anyone know how to change the thread title, since it is going to be more of a Bracket/Index build.