Quick-release seat pins/tank pins/ keyless hump removal, Gen 2

I just looked at the mechanism, and you could remove the key portion and replace it with a turn latch and it should mount right up. It isn't a precise mechanism. The key portion turns exactly like a turning latch would. I image it would be as simple as matching the size. I was thinking the black one not the silver ones.

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Yes, it's a full time race bike. I might put 25 street miles a year on it but I want it to look like a stock street bike. All the squids want to make their street bikes look like a drag bike, and I'm trying to make my drag bike look like a street bike. :lol:

Create a cable like I posted and tuck the outside end away under the tail. That way it's easy to access and out of sight. You can remove the key lock and plug the hole.
 
I'll post a photo tomorrow but a copy key from Ace hardware cut the back off and heat with butane touch. Push plastic knob of choice on while hot. Push into lock ang forget about it. 24, 000 miles with speeds up to 196 mph and never fallen out. Fyi being cut down key is not able to operate ignition switch
 
Let me bring you up to speed ColdBusa. In a perfect world set-up could be made in the pits prior to a run. However, race tracks, race cars and race directors are far from perfect. Tuning decisions are made prior to a run based on weather considerations, your opponent and track conditions. Alot of times you can sit in staging for 30 minutes to an hour or longer waiting for a clean up, timing equipment issues or whatever. Bottom line is you don't do that. You make all your tuning decisions 2 minutes prior to making your pass and that 2 minutes is critical. I may want to make adjustments to ignition curve and ramp rates, launch RPM, tire pressure, shift RPM, suspension settings, not to mention turning on my air supply, putting on my jacket, gloves and helmet. Not having to fumble around with a stupid key would be one less thing I have to deal with during those two minutes.

I was just offering advice and I was polite about it. You may want to take some as it sounds like you need some. I'm only offering as I race Pro Street. So trust me, I'm up to "speed" on the subject.
 
I'll post a photo tomorrow but a copy key from Ace hardware cut the back off and heat with butane touch. Push plastic knob of choice on while hot. Push into lock ang forget about it. 24, 000 miles with speeds up to 196 mph and never fallen out. Fyi being cut down key is not able to operate ignition switch
Damn Brian I was just going to send him one with an invoice for 150.00 :lol:
 
I was just offering advice and I was polite about it. You may want to take some as it sounds like you need some. I'm only offering as I race Pro Street. So trust me, I'm up to "speed" on the subject.
I need some advice on where to source quick release seat pins, tank pins and a hump release. I'm all good in the race program department. I've been doing this for 30 years, won my 1st championship in 1994. I'm not new to the game and I know exactly what I want.

You race Pro Street? Pro Street is an amazing class but as an owner/builder/tuner/rider I know I can't compete in that class. I'm sure I could spend a couple hundred thousand, go 7.0's, maybe qualify 15th or 16th at 1/3 of the events and lose in the first round. That sucks but that's the reality. I can't win in that class and I want to go rounds. Crazy 8's/9.50 index/ET is a better fit for my program. I go to all the XDA and Manufacturers Cup events. Stop by my trailer and I'll buy you a drink. :beerchug:
 
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Let me bring you up to speed ColdBusa. In a perfect world set-up could be made in the pits prior to a run. However, race tracks, race cars and race directors are far from perfect. Tuning decisions are made prior to a run based on weather considerations, your opponent and track conditions. Alot of times you can sit in staging for 30 minutes to an hour or longer waiting for a clean up, timing equipment issues or whatever. Bottom line is you don't do that. You make all your tuning decisions 2 minutes prior to making your pass and that 2 minutes is critical. I may want to make adjustments to ignition curve and ramp rates, launch RPM, tire pressure, shift RPM, suspension settings, not to mention turning on my air supply, putting on my jacket, gloves and helmet. Not having to fumble around with a stupid key would be one less thing I have to deal with during those two minutes.


It’s sometimes funny when non racers think it’s only a 7 second race (very fast bike) and it’s as simple as jumping on the bike and going. High hp bikes take lots of behind the scenes planning and last second adjustments. Why bother to make a last second adjustment—— because it’s a sport that is determined down to the .001 second for a reason. One, one thousandth of a second possible difference between hero and zero.
 
It’s sometimes funny when non racers think it’s only a 7 second race (very fast bike) and it’s as simple as jumping on the bike and going. High hp bikes take lots of behind the scenes planning and last second adjustments. Why bother to make a last second adjustment—— because it’s a sport that is determined down to the .001 second for a reason. One, one thousandth of a second possible difference between hero and zero.

Megawatt, I am a racer, I do run 7s. The advice I gave is sound. For what it's worth, I built, tuned, and race mine on my own.
 
I just looked at the mechanism, and you could remove the key portion and replace it with a turn latch and it should mount right up. It isn't a precise mechanism. The key portion turns exactly like a turning latch would. I image it would be as simple as matching the size. I was thinking the black one not the silver ones.

View attachment 1586702

The latch with the black knob looks perfect for the job.
 
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