Quick-release seat pins/tank pins/ keyless hump removal, Gen 2

I remember Sato Racing had some nice looking quick release pins for the tank, but don’t know if they have any of the other stuff you are looking for.
 
Probably have to have something fabricated. It could be as simple as a cable pull. Suzuki probably never thought of that.

If you had another latch unit, perhaps a cable could be attached instead of the line the key uses??

Don't know myself, just throwing spitballs out there...
 
Some guys just leave the key in the tail release. I ran a coupe USB extension cables out of my hump so I can connect to the Woolich and the nitrous controller without removing the tail.
 
I hear ya but I don't have the time or desire to engineer and fabricate something. I'm surprised there's not some commercially available premium product out there to solve this issue. If somebody would come up with something really nice, I'm sure they could sell a couple hundred of them.
 
I hear ya but I don't have the time or desire to engineer and fabricate something. I'm surprised there's not some commercially available premium product out there to solve this issue. If somebody would come up with something really nice, I'm sure they could sell a couple hundred of them.
Understandable, you'd think a bike who has been run at tracks for 18 yrs would have had a mod for exactly what you are looking for.

I even find the hump a buggar to get on sometimes,
 
If somebody made a really nice piece to replace that key assembly where you could push a button or pull ring, I'd gladly pay $150 for that. I'm sure a couple hundred other people would be glad to pay that too. Pay an engineer $4,000 to develop it, keep your manufacturing costs around $30 and put $20,000 in your pocket.
 
I have these on my gen 2 turbo bike. Homemade. Not pretty but it works flawless.

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If it's a race bike, then why isn't everything set in your pit prior to getting to the staging lanes? If there is something that needs to be turned on, why not move it up front onto your dash or ram air tube covers, handlebar switch, etc.. If getting off, popping the key in and doing your thing is too much of a hassle, you need to look at your race program and change how you're doing things..
 
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Get a foot long section of teflon coated cable or even some sturdy speaker wire and some wire crimps. Drill a small hole to run the cable through the fairing. Create loops on each end. Would take you maybe $5 and 30 minutes of your time.
 
Need something similar to this. But it could also be done with a button on the opposite side of the key pushing a plunger against the release. Simple and reliable.
Think of a door lock actuator pushing the mechanism from the other side to release it. Then when it returns it will allow it to lock. I’ll see if I have a spare door lock actuator for proof of concept.
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If it's a race bike, then why isn't everything set in your pit prior to getting to the staging lanes? If there is something that needs to be turned on, why not move it up front onto your dash or ram air tube covers, handlebar switch, etc.. If getting off, popping the key in and doing your thing is too much of a hassle, you need to look at your race program and change how you're doing things..
Let me bring you up to speed ColdBusa. In a perfect world set-up could be made in the pits prior to a run. However, race tracks, race cars and race directors are far from perfect. Tuning decisions are made prior to a run based on weather considerations, your opponent and track conditions. Alot of times you can sit in staging for 30 minutes to an hour or longer waiting for a clean up, timing equipment issues or whatever. Bottom line is you don't do that. You make all your tuning decisions 2 minutes prior to making your pass and that 2 minutes is critical. I may want to make adjustments to ignition curve and ramp rates, launch RPM, tire pressure, shift RPM, suspension settings, not to mention turning on my air supply, putting on my jacket, gloves and helmet. Not having to fumble around with a stupid key would be one less thing I have to deal with during those two minutes.
 
Get a foot long section of teflon coated cable or even some sturdy speaker wire and some wire crimps. Drill a small hole to run the cable through the fairing. Create loops on each end. Would take you maybe $5 and 30 minutes of your time.

I like your thinking GA but that's a little too Sanford and Son for my taste. If I had to I could MacGyver it, bypass the key, get a longer cable and let it sit in the opening where the passenger peg bracket used to be next to the shock reservoir. I'm still looking for a premium solution and I'm willing to pay for it.
 
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