Hello everyone. 2018 gen2. I was wondering if I make a retrofit pressure bleeder for the brakes and clutch bleeding process, if it would be ok to use? I know for my bmw I have one that is safe to use up to 10psi. If it is ok, does anyone know the max psi ? I’m talking about the bleeders that replace the caps on the reservoirs that apply pressure. I have attached a picture of the one I use on my bmw. TIA
Pressure bleeder?
- Thread starter BusaBenny
- Start date
Kiwi Rider
Registered
Why do you feel the need to pressure bleed the hydraulics?
If you're having trouble priming the brake or clutch systems, a vacuum bleed on the caliper or clutch slave cyl bleed nipples works every time.
Or . . a large syringe full of fluid with a hose connected to the open bleed nipple and squirt the fluid up frome the caliper to fill the m/cyl and reservoir, then bleed the regular way after the priming process.
If you're having trouble priming the brake or clutch systems, a vacuum bleed on the caliper or clutch slave cyl bleed nipples works every time.
Or . . a large syringe full of fluid with a hose connected to the open bleed nipple and squirt the fluid up frome the caliper to fill the m/cyl and reservoir, then bleed the regular way after the priming process.
So i have the harbor freight vacuum bleeder and it works great. I’m just thinking about using both to make sure one hundred percent I have it bled.
It was mentioned above. I have pumped fresh fluid from the master side, and when the system has been completely evacuated, I use the big syringe from the caliper side.
With a pressure bleeder from the master side it would work fine if you can develop a barrier to the resevoir that will retain the pressure without spraying it all over.
What I have found is with the stainless steel brake lines, when both hoses meet at the master, a bubble can develop in the banjo where both lines meet.
In that case, put the line under pressure, and crack the banjo loose to burp that bubble. Makes a huge difference. Cover it with a rag to contain any liquid purged from the banjo with the two lines.
I had the same pressure bleeder for my old E23 Bimmer....
With a pressure bleeder from the master side it would work fine if you can develop a barrier to the resevoir that will retain the pressure without spraying it all over.
What I have found is with the stainless steel brake lines, when both hoses meet at the master, a bubble can develop in the banjo where both lines meet.
In that case, put the line under pressure, and crack the banjo loose to burp that bubble. Makes a huge difference. Cover it with a rag to contain any liquid purged from the banjo with the two lines.
I had the same pressure bleeder for my old E23 Bimmer....
Kiwi Rider
Registered
Unfortunately the Busa brake m/cyl reservoir does not have a screw- on type cap so the only way would be to take a OEM cap (metal), remove the rubber bellows and make a gasket for the cap . . then drill and tap a thread to suit an air hose fitting. The pressure would need to be less than 100psi I would think.
Still, I can not see why it's necessary to pressure bleed it.
I've been seeing those lately and was actually thinking of how to make one work with the busa. I will say after a comment @ottafish made a while back about an issue he had bleeding his brakes one time i think the next time I flush mine in gonna try doing it with the bike running and having moved enough to turn off the abs light. When he said his abs pump had stopped in an odd spot and caused him to take it to a shop it got me to thinking about the old gm cars with their abs modules that where near impossible to bleed and some you had to have the car running to get it to bleed so i figure it's something I wanna try and see the result of.
Brake Pressure Bleeder
We've all been there – the frustration of waiting on friends to help you bleed your brakes or the inevitable arguments with your significant other over the "pump and hold" method. The end result? Soft, unresponsive brakes that fall short of the dealership-quality brake flush you were aiming for...
agm-products.com
A little late on this reply but can you elaborate on the issue you are talking about? Are you saying the abs will or can get stuck in an odd position and it won’t bleed probably with the bike off? I have always bled the bike when it was off.
Bleed the brakes.
Zip-tie the lever to the bar overnight(put cardboard around it to protect the grip and lever)
Bleed again.
Having the brake applied 12-24 hours will force all the air to the end of the lines/bleeders, so when you bleed again, the last of the air will come out.
If you have a master cylinder without a bleeder, you Can open and close the bolt holding the line(s), and use it like a bleeder(put a rag under it).
Bleeding by the brake line bolt at the MC is not ideal, because of sealing issues (sealing issues are uncommon, but something to be aware of).
Sometimes you won't have a choice, Brake Vacuum, Syringe, whatever, they work great, but on occasion, you may have to bleed at the MC without a bleeder.
The overnight applied brakes/next day rebleed works on the rear brakes too.
Just tie a weight to the pedal to keep pressure on it.
Bleed front or rear Before removing the applied pressure, pump and bleed a time or 2 after...done.
Zip-tie the lever to the bar overnight(put cardboard around it to protect the grip and lever)
Bleed again.
Having the brake applied 12-24 hours will force all the air to the end of the lines/bleeders, so when you bleed again, the last of the air will come out.
If you have a master cylinder without a bleeder, you Can open and close the bolt holding the line(s), and use it like a bleeder(put a rag under it).
Bleeding by the brake line bolt at the MC is not ideal, because of sealing issues (sealing issues are uncommon, but something to be aware of).
Sometimes you won't have a choice, Brake Vacuum, Syringe, whatever, they work great, but on occasion, you may have to bleed at the MC without a bleeder.
The overnight applied brakes/next day rebleed works on the rear brakes too.
Just tie a weight to the pedal to keep pressure on it.
Bleed front or rear Before removing the applied pressure, pump and bleed a time or 2 after...done.
Berlin Germany
Registered
@BusaBenny
if poss. see (in real / live) how suzuki built the front-lines at the 2022 gen3 - thats one part of the way
then implement a new bleeder at the high-point of the gen3´s front-brake-line.
with this new implemented bleeder at the (real) high-point of the front-linings you reach the best result ever.
see as a hint the following fiche for gen3
the zip-tie trick only can help if the air can´t be cougth in a high-point
if the cross-over line is still there the zip-tie can´t help any way.
only if air can freely go upwards (here to the master and its reservoir) a system can be bleeded by itself.
if poss. see (in real / live) how suzuki built the front-lines at the 2022 gen3 - thats one part of the way
then implement a new bleeder at the high-point of the gen3´s front-brake-line.
with this new implemented bleeder at the (real) high-point of the front-linings you reach the best result ever.
see as a hint the following fiche for gen3
the zip-tie trick only can help if the air can´t be cougth in a high-point
if the cross-over line is still there the zip-tie can´t help any way.
only if air can freely go upwards (here to the master and its reservoir) a system can be bleeded by itself.
@ottafish at one time was having an issue with not being his brakes to bleed out well and said he took it into a shop where they said something with the abs had stopped in an odd position causing his issue (at least I think it was him). It got me to thinking about some of the old gm cars that my dad had issues bleeding the brakes on and we ended up dying it with the car running and was able to get them bled out so it was something I was thinking of trying. I'm also real curious about the pressure bleeder and some I am a mechanic by trade im sure I can justify the 250 dollars or so that I've seen one for just to try out.
I guess the main reason to use one would be to speed up the job. I've actually got a little more into looking at these and talked to some auto techs that say these are the way to go if your having any kind of issue getting air out. I guess it's just a new toy for us mechanics to waste money on but I guess I'll find out once I spend the money if it was a waste or not
The power bleeders are nice, and help with arm pump, lol, as you turn on the air vs pumping the Mighty Vac handle 300 times.
But, if you have air at the MC...it's still not going to matter, you'll have to bleed it at the MC, either through a bleeder, add a bleeder, or open/close the brake line bolt at the MC.
The power bleeder just makes filling the brake lines quick and easy.
You can use Alot of extra fluid, and take more air out with it, but it'll still need bled.
I have had to do this several times over the years(and anytime the MC or lines were new or empty).
Literally the same thing 2 months ago on an 03 gsxr600, air trapped at MC, lines full of fluid, no air coming out at calipers, multiple attempts, zero brakes. Bled 3 times at MC bolt for lines, perfect brakes.
But, if you have air at the MC...it's still not going to matter, you'll have to bleed it at the MC, either through a bleeder, add a bleeder, or open/close the brake line bolt at the MC.
The power bleeder just makes filling the brake lines quick and easy.
You can use Alot of extra fluid, and take more air out with it, but it'll still need bled.
I have had to do this several times over the years(and anytime the MC or lines were new or empty).
Literally the same thing 2 months ago on an 03 gsxr600, air trapped at MC, lines full of fluid, no air coming out at calipers, multiple attempts, zero brakes. Bled 3 times at MC bolt for lines, perfect brakes.
ottafish
Registered
Yep. Twas me. The abs pump had ended up in an odd position. Only way to reset it is some dealer tool or to move the bike fast enough for the abs light on dash to go out. I went thru about 5 bottles of fluid trying the get the front to firm up. Dropped it I to the shop, 2 hrs later, firm, solid feel..
Last edited:
Strange, maybe related or not, but my friend's '18 gsxr1000r brakes felt very wooden, no feedback, and poor stops since new April 2019(left over).
3-4k miles later, the rear brake completely stopped working.
Stumped as to why, lots of reading with no answers, no supposed way to bleed at the proportioning valve, and linked abs; now what?
Well, lets bleed the rear...for about 20 minutes, and Lots of air.
Great, now where is the leak?
Good question, that was over a couple thousand miles ago, the brakes have worked Much better ever since(suprise), and there is no evidence of any leak, loose lines, etc.
I would have felt better finding a problem.
All I can imagine is that it had an air pocket in the system since day one(as the brakes felt better after than they ever did brand new).
Yes, brakes do need bled every couple seasons(just do it fluid change), but this is a new one on me, never seen it happen like this before.
The power bleeder im talking about actually pushes the fluid and air from the master out to the open bleeder and is made to get all air out of the system
Do you have a link to it? Thanks
This is the one I've been looking at. It doesn't hook into an airline like some others I've seen but for the price I wouldn't mind having to pump up the pressure. I figure if I'm getting it to use on the busa I'll get an old reservoir cover and make my own cap to seal tight instead of the universal ones they offer.
Mityvac MV6840 Hydraulic Brake and Clutch Pressure Bleeding System with Integrated Safety and Pressure Relief Valve, 7 Master Cylinder Adapters and Case , Black , 12 x 12 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005MVBFM4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ADG70D1WADTQZEAN88FD
Similar threads
