This is my thoughts on it as well. Unless you are going to take it out and put some miles on it, starting is a bad thing.
Oil change in Spring for Winter guys...
- Thread starter GsxrBots
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This is my thoughts on it as well. Unless you are going to take it out and put some miles on it, starting is a bad thing.
lankeeyankee
Banned
Just changed mine, and I won't say how long it had beenIt was nice and black, and looked great all over my hands
Let's just say that since going through divorce, I'm not as meticulous as Bots here, but I don't start bonfires with gasoline because that's WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY dumber than skipping an oil change
Starting bon fires with gas is bad? Hell I start my fireplace in the house with gas if I dont have kerosene works awesome with a spray bottle to keep it going in the beginning YAAAAY purty flames!
No antifreeze in it. Unfortunately I've seen that first hand before, and it was strictly condensation. Brown milky condensation mixed with oil....
legion rider
Registered
Just had a meeting with my Exxon Mobil rep at work in regards to the $13,000,000.00 worth of new equipment our company just installed. Turns out he rides a Harley Fatboy and we started dicussing engine oil for bikes. Of coarse he runs Mobil 1 and I asked him about changing oil if you use Mobil 1 and only put a few hundred miles on your bike. His response was it was a waste of money. He said sythetic oil does not degrade. He went into a lot of technical reasons why all of which were over my head as he was talking about the mollecular structure of the oil. He also said any moisture build up over the winter would quickly evaporate on the first ride. This guy knows his stuff and I trust his knowledge. He also asked me if I needed some free sample would you know I just bought for all 3 of my bikes a week ago.
I changed the oil on my "new" 08 last week because I didn't know what it was. That stuff looked like brand new coming out. There was no reason to change it other than my desire to get Mobil 1 in it for a better clutch feel. I agree, condensation that forms over the winter will evaporate out quickly on the first ride. Remember, condensation will only occur when air carrying water is cooled below the dew point. If you keep your engine sealed so the moist air doesn't get inside you won't get condensation on the inside. If you keep the temperature constant where you store the bike you will have very little condensation as the air won't be cooled below the dew point. Starting a bike for a couple minutes in the dead of winter can create condensation when the water created during combustion condenses on cold engine parts before getting out of the exhaust. If the engine is fully warmed up the water won't condense the same in the engine.
card16969
Registered
No antifreeze in it. Unfortunately I've seen that first hand before, and it was strictly condensation. Brown milky condensation mixed with oil....
ok good just makin sure wouldnt want you causing more damage ya know
Never said anything about the oil degrading, simply stating there was DEFINITELY moisture in my oil.
Unfortunately I can't keep the temperature of my garage constant as it is a detached garage and I have a heater in there only used when we are working out there. Plus it is insulated, so it stays fairly warm until the doors are opened, then it becomes cold again. I'm sure this affected my oil but I'm just putting the notice out there to people that may think all is well with their oil they changed last fall...
BigBadDodge
Registered
The oil itself does not degrade, its all the additives that do. I worked with a guy that was worth millions due to his background in mining and oil, just worked as a hobby so he had something to do. Once a year he changed the oil in his car, with the cheapest oil money could buy(literally watched this guy buy oil at 7-11 and a cheap filter at the parts store next door) Drove round trip 110 miles a day. At 430k miles the car popped a head gasket and he got rid of it, think it had 4 oil changes in its life.
I do mine every 3k with synthetic, and every spring thats just how i was raised. Of course not even much winter this year, 800 miles so far since october
I can't remember where I saw it, but I read something on this subject just today. May have even been the Amsoil site as I just ordered some new oil also. But what I saw said that, if you fully heat the engine every few weeks during the winter, it will burn off the condensation and therefore doesn't hurt the oil/engine. If you don't, or don't run it long enough, then yes condensation will deteriorate it.
lease:I saw another post mentioning this but I thought I'd start my own... I was always a firm believer of changing the bikes oil before riding it in Spring. My local dealership (not the one I normally go to, but the closest Suzuki dealer) said it was "a waste of time and oil" to change my oil in the Spring if I had just done it a few hundred miles before storing it for the Winter.
Let me preface by saying I'm not one of those guys who goes out and starts their bike every couple days or weeks in the Winter. I'm a firm believer that this does more bad than good. My bike goes up on stands, battery tender plugged in, gas tank filled to the brim and a cover goes on it. Period...
So, the other day, I pulled her off the stands and drained the oil. It was the most disgusting oil I've ever encountered. It looked like chocolate milk with yogurt swirls. Nasty looking oil. Have you ever seen what condensation does to oil? Well it did it just sitting over the Winter. I think I put mine away in October last year, maybe November, I don't remember.
Just letting you guys know how just a couple months of sitting can destroy oil... And of course gas.. I drain my tank every Spring and run it in my truck (under warranty LOL) or start bonfires with it...
So in short, CHANGE YOUR OIL IN SPRING, NOT FALL! Or better yet both for all us anal-retentive folks...
Milky looking oil after winter storage?
What kind of oil do you use?
For you guys changing oil before and after storage is just a waste of money and oil.
I have read that it is better to change your oil before winter storage, disconnect your battery from bike, put it on a battery tender and leave it sit all thru the storage without starting it.
I am a firm believer that quality is better than quantity.
Suzuki Oil.
As stated in my original post, oil does this based on humidity and condensation. My garage is heated then cooled, heated, etc.. Can't really blame the oil here, and we aren't starting an oil thread about this..
Fill your gas tank with fresh premium fuel that contains no ethanol (Shell premium contains no ethanol … or so the sign on the pump says). Premium fuel is recommended because most regular grade fuels contain ethanol and there are a bunch of folks saying it is not the best for power sports applications … especially if you are not using them everyday. More importantly, add the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer. Make sure the tank is completely full for final storage … it will prevent condensation during winter temperature fluctuations.
Either take your bike for a short 5 to 10 minute ride or warm your bike up in the driveway and do oil and filter change (this will also make sure that the fuel stabilizer has worked its way through the entire fuel system). Refer to your owner’s manual for oil change info. Careful of warm or hot components. Unless you have recently changed your oil (1,000 kms or less), it is a good idea to store your bike with fresh oil … it will also save you having to do it next spring. A bike should not be stored with old, well used oil … its acidity levels will be elevated and could harm your engine internals. Start your bike after the oil change for a minute or so to get the fresh oil circulating.
Once your bike has completely cooled down, if the float bowl drain screws can be accessed drain the float bowls (this may not be necessary since you should have already added fuel stabilizer … but if the drain screws are easy to get to it is a bit of extra "insurance").
Wash your motorcycle before storing. A coat of wax on the painted parts is a good idea. Always inspect your bike as you wash it … this is a great time to look for damaged, loose or missing parts. If your bike is being stored in a damp environment, consider using some light oil on the chrome bits … just make sure you remove it prior to starting the bike in the spring.
Lube your chain (if applicable) after you have washed and dried your bike. Once again, it is not a bad idea to adjust your chain at the same time … it will save you having to do it next spring. Please note, chains are not tightened, they are adjusted to a specific tension spec which will be outlined in your owner’s manual.
Find a safe, secure spot to store your bike. If your bike has a centre stand, it is best to put it on this stand in order to get as much weight off the wheels and suspension as possible. If you own a sport bike, there are various types of stands available that can raise the wheels off the ground. If not, the side stand will have to do. Remember to store your bike in a well ventilated area away from open flames, sparks etc. and electric motors.
Remove the battery and if applicable check the electrolyte level and top it up to the correct level with distilled water. Put the battery on charge and fully charge it. The battery should then be stored in a warm, dry place. Never store your battery directly on a concrete floor … this could damage or permantely kill the battery (use a 2x4 to keep it up off the concrete). The battery should be charged every 4 to 6 weeks while in storage. Note: Some MF (maintenance free) batteries require a special charger.
Since you have warmed the bike up to change the oil, double check if the gas tank needs to be topped up again. If so, make sure you use stabilized premium fuel … this will help prevent condensation and corrosion in the tank. If your bike has a fuel petcock, make sure it is in the off position during storage.
Cover your bike with a breathable cover to help protect it and keep it clean. Careful of using a non-breathable cover (plastic tarp etc.) which could cause condensation and corrosion.
Depending on where your bike is being stored, if vermin (mice – rats etc.) are a concern, take the time to tape up the intake opening and exhaust outlet and put some moth balls under the cover … this will help keep the critters away (rumour is that dyer sheets do the same thing … keep vermin away … ). Make sure you remove them before starting in the spring.
Some folks go the extra step and remove spark plugs and put a small amount of oil (about a teaspoon) into each cylinder then rotate the engine a few times to prevent rusting. If you are storing your bike for more than just the winter this would be a good idea. Note: Be careful … removing spark plugs can be a tough job on the newer high tech bikes, and do not put too much oil into the cylinders.
If you are storing a race bike that has water or water wetter in the cooling system, (read road race bikes) make sure you drain the water from the cooling system and replace it with proper coolant to prevent freezing and a very costly engine repair.
Note: Lots of riders get the itch to go for a ride on the beautiful mid winter day … if you do this, remember to go through most of the storage procedure again. Also be aware that if you ride through a puddle or wet area you may have just coated your bike in salty water … do not put it away without thoroughly washing it again. Otherwise you will be in for a surprise when you pull the cover off it in the spring … the salt will not only corrode chrome but will also pit any aluminum parts.
Finally, remember that thieves don't go away in the winter. Keep your bike locked up at all times and out of view if possible
Either take your bike for a short 5 to 10 minute ride or warm your bike up in the driveway and do oil and filter change (this will also make sure that the fuel stabilizer has worked its way through the entire fuel system). Refer to your owner’s manual for oil change info. Careful of warm or hot components. Unless you have recently changed your oil (1,000 kms or less), it is a good idea to store your bike with fresh oil … it will also save you having to do it next spring. A bike should not be stored with old, well used oil … its acidity levels will be elevated and could harm your engine internals. Start your bike after the oil change for a minute or so to get the fresh oil circulating.
Once your bike has completely cooled down, if the float bowl drain screws can be accessed drain the float bowls (this may not be necessary since you should have already added fuel stabilizer … but if the drain screws are easy to get to it is a bit of extra "insurance").
Wash your motorcycle before storing. A coat of wax on the painted parts is a good idea. Always inspect your bike as you wash it … this is a great time to look for damaged, loose or missing parts. If your bike is being stored in a damp environment, consider using some light oil on the chrome bits … just make sure you remove it prior to starting the bike in the spring.
Lube your chain (if applicable) after you have washed and dried your bike. Once again, it is not a bad idea to adjust your chain at the same time … it will save you having to do it next spring. Please note, chains are not tightened, they are adjusted to a specific tension spec which will be outlined in your owner’s manual.
Find a safe, secure spot to store your bike. If your bike has a centre stand, it is best to put it on this stand in order to get as much weight off the wheels and suspension as possible. If you own a sport bike, there are various types of stands available that can raise the wheels off the ground. If not, the side stand will have to do. Remember to store your bike in a well ventilated area away from open flames, sparks etc. and electric motors.
Remove the battery and if applicable check the electrolyte level and top it up to the correct level with distilled water. Put the battery on charge and fully charge it. The battery should then be stored in a warm, dry place. Never store your battery directly on a concrete floor … this could damage or permantely kill the battery (use a 2x4 to keep it up off the concrete). The battery should be charged every 4 to 6 weeks while in storage. Note: Some MF (maintenance free) batteries require a special charger.
Since you have warmed the bike up to change the oil, double check if the gas tank needs to be topped up again. If so, make sure you use stabilized premium fuel … this will help prevent condensation and corrosion in the tank. If your bike has a fuel petcock, make sure it is in the off position during storage.
Cover your bike with a breathable cover to help protect it and keep it clean. Careful of using a non-breathable cover (plastic tarp etc.) which could cause condensation and corrosion.
Depending on where your bike is being stored, if vermin (mice – rats etc.) are a concern, take the time to tape up the intake opening and exhaust outlet and put some moth balls under the cover … this will help keep the critters away (rumour is that dyer sheets do the same thing … keep vermin away … ). Make sure you remove them before starting in the spring.
Some folks go the extra step and remove spark plugs and put a small amount of oil (about a teaspoon) into each cylinder then rotate the engine a few times to prevent rusting. If you are storing your bike for more than just the winter this would be a good idea. Note: Be careful … removing spark plugs can be a tough job on the newer high tech bikes, and do not put too much oil into the cylinders.
If you are storing a race bike that has water or water wetter in the cooling system, (read road race bikes) make sure you drain the water from the cooling system and replace it with proper coolant to prevent freezing and a very costly engine repair.
Note: Lots of riders get the itch to go for a ride on the beautiful mid winter day … if you do this, remember to go through most of the storage procedure again. Also be aware that if you ride through a puddle or wet area you may have just coated your bike in salty water … do not put it away without thoroughly washing it again. Otherwise you will be in for a surprise when you pull the cover off it in the spring … the salt will not only corrode chrome but will also pit any aluminum parts.
Finally, remember that thieves don't go away in the winter. Keep your bike locked up at all times and out of view if possible
I saw another post mentioning this but I thought I'd start my own... I was always a firm believer of changing the bikes oil before riding it in Spring. My local dealership (not the one I normally go to, but the closest Suzuki dealer) said it was "a waste of time and oil" to change my oil in the Spring if I had just done it a few hundred miles before storing it for the Winter.
Let me preface by saying I'm not one of those guys who goes out and starts their bike every couple days or weeks in the Winter. I'm a firm believer that this does more bad than good. My bike goes up on stands, battery tender plugged in, gas tank filled to the brim and a cover goes on it. Period...
So, the other day, I pulled her off the stands and drained the oil. It was the most disgusting oil I've ever encountered. It looked like chocolate milk with yogurt swirls. Nasty looking oil. Have you ever seen what condensation does to oil? Well it did it just sitting over the Winter. I think I put mine away in October last year, maybe November, I don't remember.
Just letting you guys know how just a couple months of sitting can destroy oil... And of course gas.. I drain my tank every Spring and run it in my truck (under warranty LOL) or start bonfires with it...
So in short, CHANGE YOUR OIL IN SPRING, NOT FALL! Or better yet both for all us anal-retentive folks...
Botts, I change my oil every 3,000 miles or 18 months, whichever comes first. My bike is in storage most of the time, ridden it once since the bash. I have my oil analysed and it is always clean. From both the appearance and the analysis I could probably go way beyond both 3,000 miles or 18 months. I don't start the bike if it won't go for a ride and don't bother about changes before or after riding seasons.
I would be concerned about the appearance of the oil you described, something is wrong there. Suggest you pay the $25 for a sample, have it analysed and see what the issue is.
Simply storing the bike with alternating temperatures in the storage environment can't do what you describe. There is no air circulation through your motor during storage, making it very unlikely for cycling above and below dew-point inside the cylinders.
If you really believe that is the cause, while the motor is warm, for storage plug the pipes and the airbox, but I'm sure it won't make any difference.
What is this "put away for winter" bs?
Got thin blood?
Got thin blood?
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