i really hope i dont get flamed for this thread,but i just got an 01 busa,and i have nobody to ask,so here goes,i cant find a smooth shift rpm,i searched here and found lots of posts for racing/top spped shifts,but im new to riding and the bikes just feels"clunky" when i shift,not sure if its because im new to the bike or if im doing something wrong,i get a little nervous at high rpms so i shift around 5000... i beleive its stock except yoshimura exhaust,any help would be great....thanks
normal or best rpm range for everyday driving
- Thread starter wtjames02
- Start date
you have an 01. Did you put a "TRE" or "ATRE" or similar device on your bike yet (speed limiter remover). If so then the 1st thing you will notice is that it's really smothed out 1-3 gears. This will help your low level vibrations as well as ease up on your shifting "Feel" some. Not that it has anything to do with your shift but when the bike feels sluggish you shift sluggish. Secondly. Your shifting to slow in combination with your jerky clutch movements. It's funny but including mine and everyone else ive been around. Riders with life experiece riding and they all had the same problem. Clunky herky jerky shifts. As you ride it will smooth out to the point you will begin speed shifting and not even feel the inertia pull during shift.
My ride buddies used to laugh when I did it and Ive ridden longer then they have. I ended up putting Heavy duty clutch springs in to make the lever pull more stiffer which in turns make you slip it smoother.
JD
JD
thanks,that helps out alot,ive been trying to ride as much as i can between the rain and a crazy work schedule,to try and get a feel for the bike,like i said im terrified of getting too high in the rpms and doing a wheelie...lol...another thing what is a "tre" and where/how much do they normally cost?
from my experience I usually shift at about 5 to 5.5 k, I am still breaking the boo in though. I have found i get much better gas mileage when I run low rpms, like 3 or 3.5, but the power band, stock, seems to be at between 4 and 6 k on the tach...get some more opinions, though...
<!--EDIT|Busa_05
Reason for Edit: None given...|1112236297 -->
<!--EDIT|Busa_05
Reason for Edit: None given...|1112236297 -->
stunnah is a professional...don't do that at home...Not ribbing you but I rode tonite and shifted at about 10.5...Man it was sweet...
My power used to come on at about 7K...from my experience I usually shift at about 5 to 5.5 k, I am still breaking the boo in though. I have found i get much better gas mileage when I run low rpms, like 3 or 3.5, but the power band, stock, seems to be at between 4 and 6 k on the tach...get some more opinions, though...
hehheh 10,200 is usually pretty good too!
lol... nah just play with it man... i have no idea where i shift if i'm just toolin arouind.. wherever feels good i guess..
for that matter with the busa you can practcally pull out... shift to 6th and drive all day without touchin it again.
lol... nah just play with it man... i have no idea where i shift if i'm just toolin arouind.. wherever feels good i guess..
for that matter with the busa you can practcally pull out... shift to 6th and drive all day without touchin it again.
i think stunnah is trying to get me killed...lol...the biggest thing is is seems like the bike vibrates alot around 5000 rpms so i usually shift thinking im riding it too hard,i know the busa is a bad bike but i dont know anything about it,except it hauls,and i just didnt want to rag it too hard,it has 7100 miles,i appreciate everybody here trying to help out,this is a great board.........
oh yeah.. you figured you'd get flamed for it.. and we aim to please..
NOOOBIE!!!! hehe I now label you as "training wheel #3"
somebody else called their newbs training wheels and i thought it was pretty funny, so it's now a hayabusa.org tradition that will very likely never die since I .. .EGO.. the EGO hath spoken it.
naw, just funnin' i ain't that important 'round here.
NOOOBIE!!!! hehe I now label you as "training wheel #3"
somebody else called their newbs training wheels and i thought it was pretty funny, so it's now a hayabusa.org tradition that will very likely never die since I .. .EGO.. the EGO hath spoken it.
naw, just funnin' i ain't that important 'round here.
yeah being a noob sux...but its worth it you guys have some pretty bad bikes,mines pretty much stock,and propably best that way for awhile,at least now i have a place to get answers on busa ideas,i still am not sure what the "tre" is and how much they cost,that seems like a worthwhile investment
hehe, just post a thread labelled..
"Whats a tre"
that'll get their attention pretty quickly..
basically it's a useless do-dad that everybody swears by..
in short.. it makes your computer (on the bike, not the comptuer computer) think your in 5th gear all the time thus eliminating the timing retardation thats in first gear on all of em'.
I put one on for a few days.. it does smooth first out a little.. and I guess it does eliminate the limiter.. I've seen data that shows it losing a tenth in a 1/4 mi. run though.. so I lost it and haven't worried about it since..
if I ever do hit the limiter i think that will be a good enough place to let off the gas.
sorta like the airbox mod.. yeah it increases horsepower.. but it loses some torque.. just a minor recurving of the power curve the best I can tell.
mines basically stock.. just changed out the exhaust so it would sound better. the power is fine to me.
"Whats a tre"
that'll get their attention pretty quickly..
basically it's a useless do-dad that everybody swears by..
in short.. it makes your computer (on the bike, not the comptuer computer) think your in 5th gear all the time thus eliminating the timing retardation thats in first gear on all of em'.
I put one on for a few days.. it does smooth first out a little.. and I guess it does eliminate the limiter.. I've seen data that shows it losing a tenth in a 1/4 mi. run though.. so I lost it and haven't worried about it since..
if I ever do hit the limiter i think that will be a good enough place to let off the gas.
sorta like the airbox mod.. yeah it increases horsepower.. but it loses some torque.. just a minor recurving of the power curve the best I can tell.
mines basically stock.. just changed out the exhaust so it would sound better. the power is fine to me.
the problem i have with it is this..
alot of people do swear by them though.. so get some more opinions.. cuz i'm in the minority..
your gonna be running a 5th gear fuel map for every gear..
a 5th gear map is going to be a touch heavy on fuel because it's going to be compensating for the air coming thru the ram air tubes.. but in 1/2 gear that air isn't going to be there..
figure 150mph at 6000rpm for example (not sure if that actually is what rpm you'd be pulling in 5th at that speed, but it's just an example) your computer is going to be assuming that you have 150mph wind hitting the air tubes, and adjust the fuel flow accordingly..
now in first at 6000 your gonna be running less than 60 mph or something... thats a big difference in air flow to me..
I don't see how they aren't all running rich in the first 2-3 gears.
thats my theory, whether it's wrong or right.. I dunno..
alot of people do swear by them though.. so get some more opinions.. cuz i'm in the minority..
your gonna be running a 5th gear fuel map for every gear..
a 5th gear map is going to be a touch heavy on fuel because it's going to be compensating for the air coming thru the ram air tubes.. but in 1/2 gear that air isn't going to be there..
figure 150mph at 6000rpm for example (not sure if that actually is what rpm you'd be pulling in 5th at that speed, but it's just an example) your computer is going to be assuming that you have 150mph wind hitting the air tubes, and adjust the fuel flow accordingly..
now in first at 6000 your gonna be running less than 60 mph or something... thats a big difference in air flow to me..
I don't see how they aren't all running rich in the first 2-3 gears.
thats my theory, whether it's wrong or right.. I dunno..
I shift 3-4k when doing the work commute. If its a more spirited tooling around town, between 5-7k.... and if I'm ready to tear the butt outta something, north of 10k. As a direct relation to this, you can watch your MPG decrease rapidly
When you think you are ready, just roll into the throttle slowly in first gear, wind it up to 10k, then look at the speedo... try not to poop your pants
then either back down or grab second. whatever you do if you dont wanna see the sky, dont snap your wrist here.... or at any point above 5-6k in 1st or 2nd gear.
When you think you are ready, just roll into the throttle slowly in first gear, wind it up to 10k, then look at the speedo... try not to poop your pants
Here's the way I figure it -
Your post makes it sound as though you haven't ridden a long time/a lot (busa your first?) So before you do any mods, maybe you ought to get used to the bike. Not ribbin ya, just sayin - feel her out. When she starts talkin to ya, she'll tell you what she needs. As far as the buzzin @ 5k, mine (also an 01) starts right at 5k but subsides after 5.5 - I understand this is normal. I shift pretty early, just prior to 5k.
Anyway, congratz on the bike. So what's the deal? Color, sales details - PICS?
Oh yeah, Welcome.
Your post makes it sound as though you haven't ridden a long time/a lot (busa your first?) So before you do any mods, maybe you ought to get used to the bike. Not ribbin ya, just sayin - feel her out. When she starts talkin to ya, she'll tell you what she needs. As far as the buzzin @ 5k, mine (also an 01) starts right at 5k but subsides after 5.5 - I understand this is normal. I shift pretty early, just prior to 5k.
Anyway, congratz on the bike. So what's the deal? Color, sales details - PICS?
Oh yeah, Welcome.
First of all welcome to the board
I think if you shift in the range of about 3-4 k RPM the shift will be pretty smooth... thats until you are used to the gearbox! I have smooth shifts almost at any RMP! and as JD pointed out... you might want to consider installing a Smart TRE...that will make things better at sub 4500 RPM.
JUst my thought
Mustang hit it just right.
Your new on the busa which is a beast no matter what. Wait until you get a few thousand miles on it before you do anything mod wise. You will get better at shifting as well as reading the bike period. The 4500 rpm vibrations are due to suz restristing the bike.
Real quick for later down the road a TRE.
some like it some dont.
A tre is basically a resister that causes the bikes ecu(brain) to get a different reading than what suz gave it. This in turn has a output responce that the computer adjusted for which 1. smooths out 1,2,3 gears at 4500 rpm and derestricts the top end limiter in 6th. Basically in 1999 when the bike was first made the power was such that suz restricted it back electronically. Instead of 196+mph in 6th it's 185. It reduced some of the power in 1,2,3 gears. The tre puts it back.
TRE is a simple resister that tricks each gear to thinking it's in 5th. Works but there is better.
ATRE is a programable one that allows you to trick which gears you want. individual control. Very nice if you can find one.
A Smart Tre is a simpler version of the ATRE and a little cheaper too. Gets the job done.
DO iT YOURSELF TRE w/ON/off switch. Same as basic TRE except you make it your self and can use it when you want.
WHEN THIS TIME COMES. Do a search on the boards and read all you can first then if you consider getting one ATRE or SMART TRE. (TIMING RESTRICTER ELMINATOR)
JD
Your new on the busa which is a beast no matter what. Wait until you get a few thousand miles on it before you do anything mod wise. You will get better at shifting as well as reading the bike period. The 4500 rpm vibrations are due to suz restristing the bike.
Real quick for later down the road a TRE.
some like it some dont.
A tre is basically a resister that causes the bikes ecu(brain) to get a different reading than what suz gave it. This in turn has a output responce that the computer adjusted for which 1. smooths out 1,2,3 gears at 4500 rpm and derestricts the top end limiter in 6th. Basically in 1999 when the bike was first made the power was such that suz restricted it back electronically. Instead of 196+mph in 6th it's 185. It reduced some of the power in 1,2,3 gears. The tre puts it back.
TRE is a simple resister that tricks each gear to thinking it's in 5th. Works but there is better.
ATRE is a programable one that allows you to trick which gears you want. individual control. Very nice if you can find one.
A Smart Tre is a simpler version of the ATRE and a little cheaper too. Gets the job done.
DO iT YOURSELF TRE w/ON/off switch. Same as basic TRE except you make it your self and can use it when you want.
WHEN THIS TIME COMES. Do a search on the boards and read all you can first then if you consider getting one ATRE or SMART TRE. (TIMING RESTRICTER ELMINATOR)
JD
Similar threads
