Ohio bro! I’m down SW Ohio. I sent my ecu to Schnitz racing over in Indiana. As for the air filter, I read something somewhere that said the stock has better airflow than k&n. You’d need to go with a sprint style I think for more airflow than that. But you definitely need a 2nd rotor up there. The gen 2 got a upgraded brake, but even those aren’t great.
New Owner from Ohio
- Thread starter Mortumbra
- Start date
Currently I'm +3 in the back and -1 In the front
I'm down 1 in the front and +3 in the back already
jermzfree
Registered
Good eye! Why in the world would anyone remove the rotor?Nice, that mileage is barely over 100 miles a month for 15 years! Hawdabeleeve!You’ll need the other front rotor and a chain guard.
Weight I suppose...
I’ve usually seen the right side rotor removed to show off a custom wheel. His is the left one.
Welcome to the madness that is the org @Mortumbra 
Beautiful gen 1 you got, this is the place for all the knowledge you'll ever need for the beast. As already said get those missing parts back on the front brakes, they usually remove them trying to save weight on bikes that hit the track a lot and with the low miles and stretch im thinking that might have been the reason yours is gone. I see your in Ohio what area? I'm just over the border in Detroit
Beautiful gen 1 you got, this is the place for all the knowledge you'll ever need for the beast. As already said get those missing parts back on the front brakes, they usually remove them trying to save weight on bikes that hit the track a lot and with the low miles and stretch im thinking that might have been the reason yours is gone. I see your in Ohio what area? I'm just over the border in Detroit
Toledo brother.Welcome to the madness that is the org @Mortumbra
Beautiful gen 1 you got, this is the place for all the knowledge you'll ever need for the beast. As already said get those missing parts back on the front brakes, they usually remove them trying to save weight on bikes that hit the track a lot and with the low miles and stretch im thinking that might have been the reason yours is gone. I see your in Ohio what area? I'm just over the border in Detroit
Bike doesn't respond like its been used for drag or racing applications lol, but then again, it prolly has some.gunk buildup somewhere. 15 years and only 1800 miles, you figure it prolly wasn't ridden a few years.
Berlin Germany
Registered
howdy
no "bee" - he needs no turbo .
with 16/43 he knows why he has a 10" longer arm in
the (gen1) busa would speed up from zero to hunderd like a turbo without that immense costs for the turbo
but!
the swingarm´s "head" rubber protector won´t like the 16 t sprocket and will be grinded away by the chain very fast and then the alu is next to get grinded - not the best idea
, i guess(and the chain wouldn´t live as long as poss. caused by the very close linking around at the 16)
i personally would change to 17/45 or at least to 18/47 - that gives the chain a very long life
and the acceleration should be the same like at the moment.only my experiences from the last 30 years
of wrenching bikes 
All depends how fast the OP wants to go-sprockets, flashing and engine mods only get you so far...howdy
no "bee" - he needs no turbo .
with 16/43 he knows why he has a 10" longer arm in
the (gen1) busa would speed up from zero to hunderd like a turbo without that immense costs for the turbo
but!
the swingarm´s "head" rubber protector won´t like the 16 t sprocket and will be grinded away by the chain very fast and then the alu is next to get grinded - not the best idea
(and the chain wouldn´t live as long as poss. caused by the very close linking around at the 16)
i personally would change to 17/45 or at least to 18/47 - that gives the chain a very long life
only my experiences from the last 30 years
A turbo will get him about as far on the speed level as one would ever need or want.
I personally find my Hayabusa to be as fast as I would ever want to go...I guess if I wanted to go faster I'd either turbo it or go to another platform (ZX14R, H2, S1000RR).
