New busa owner, want real world feedback on these so called power mods :)

since he posted a pic of a gen 2 i was being specific about a gen 2. here is a pic of a gen 2 air box. they aren’t all the same length. Dude Just a pic like i said they are all the same height, just staggered, Take them off and put them side by side.
 
@chawkins2001 did any of this help you?

Everything and anything has been done to the Gen 1 and 2 Hayabusa so the sky is the limit of what you want to do to it...

The basics are: pipe, filter, flash...those will give you around 15 rwhp (or so).

You can play with the gearing which won't increase power but rather move it around the rev range.

Changing velocity stacks is controversial if they do much...I've read maybe 1-2 hp and changes where they come in on the rev range.

Ceramic bearings, lighter rims all help with weight, handling and rolling resistance.

Quick shifter can help with going fast....hold the throttle wide open and use your foot....it's addictive.
 
This has been very helpful thus far. I am in the Atlanta area, and funny enough I have not come across many good shops that do actual dyno tuning.

What I am going to do is the following:

-front sprocket change -1
-sprint filter (installed already)
-Yoshimura CF slip ons (came with bike)
-lowering link
-quick shifter
-dyno tune
-offroad mid pipe
-front straps for dragging worth it?

After those mods, I will leave the bike alone and just enjoy it!

1) My questions are, can the dyno tune adjust for the -1 front sprocket change to the bikes speedo? I prefer not to rack up miles on the bike that are not true miles.
2) If I install the lowering link, will the rear of the bike sit lower than the front of the bike, I have been told that would be the case by a local bike shop here in Atlanta?
3) Does the quick shifter have to be programmed through the dyno tune or flash in order for it to work?
 
You need a Heal-Tech brand Speedo-Healer to correct the speedometer.
It can be programmed for any tire or sprocket size.
Lowering links do keep the rear lower.
Strap is no good for street, hard on fork seals and really reduces travel.
Quickshifter can be setup without a dyno
 
Lowering the rear with links is easy, and normally how it's done.
Straps for the front should be track only, or strap it, run it, release it.
Sliding the forks up in the clamps is much better and easier(cut forks are $$).
You really need to ask yourself what you are really going to be using the bike for.
Do you want it lower for looks, or just cruising around?
Do you want to seriously drag race?
Are you not comfortable at the stock ride height?
Because, for looks, just creeping around is about all it's good for.
If you want to drag race, you need to get serious about a drag set-up only.
If you're short, don't be intimidated, short guys manhandle stock height bikes.
Otherwise, a stock height bike with the suspension sag set for Your weight is going to give you the best handling and most control, and you don't have to drag knees to benefit.
What you will drag on a lowered street bike is the 'chin spoiler'/front lower of the fairings, and flat spot the headers, not if, when.
Dropping just the rear by itself, also upsets the handling.
Guys that say it doesn't...just cruise around, and have no idea of the handling they're missing out on.
 
What exactly is plan with bike? Drag racing, street digs, highway pulls, daily, touring. This is the main question. You can strap a bike for street riding just remember to loosen the strap after a pull cause if you grab a hand full of front brake you probably going down. I lowered mine with lower links and triple tree but upgraded to window links due to more hp and don’t trust the lowering links now.
 
I am 5'11 and 207lbs of granite lololol. My plan for the bike is mainly street cruising, and when someone wants to try run the Busa, if all is safe, I will run them. This could include slow rolls, digs or highway pulls. After reading your comment several times Sixpack and Jeff, the stock height will suffice then. I love how it handles as is, and prefer not to mess with the potential issues that could be created.
 
chawkins2001 said:
This has been very helpful thus far. I am in the Atlanta area, and funny enough I have not come across many good shops that do actual dyno tuning.

What I am going to do is the following:

-front sprocket change -1
-sprint filter (installed already)
-Yoshimura CF slip ons (came with bike)
-lowering link
-quick shifter
-dyno tune
-offroad mid pipe
-front straps for dragging worth it?

After those mods, I will leave the bike alone and just enjoy it!

1) My questions are, can the dyno tune adjust for the -1 front sprocket change to the bikes speedo? I prefer not to rack up miles on the bike that are not true miles.
2) If I install the lowering link, will the rear of the bike sit lower than the front of the bike, I have been told that would be the case by a local bike shop here in Atlanta?
3) Does the quick shifter have to be programmed through the dyno tune or flash in order for it to work?
Click to expand...
I wouldn’t go -1 on gearing for what you want to do.

I would also sell the slip-on’s and not waste your time on a mid pipe. Get a proper full-system exhaust from the get-go.
 
chawkins2001 said:
I ordered the sprocket and Healtech Speedoheeler, and while I was on the website ran across their quick shifter kit, what do you guys know or think of their shifter kit: https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/iqse



There are no good dyno shops in my area for tuning, so I am going to get a ECU flash, is Chris Moore good with Moore Mafia, or who else do you recommend?
Click to expand...
Sure
send your ecu to MooreMafia to be flashed. Those guys are Excellent.
Get a Power Commander with a base map for whatever full exhaust you go with.
Dyno tuning is ideal, but for a bolt-on bike with a pipe, a base map can be pretty good.
You can run most any exhaust on a gen2 without a tune and not harm anything either, so no worries.
 
20220216_154039.jpg


After much thought, I went with the -1 sprocket upfront, and had it installed today. MOTHER OF GOD that was a solid investment thanks to you guys. The bike feels like it lost 100lbs, it is way more snappy and pulls way better out the hole.

Thanks so much to all who pointed me in that direction. This weekend I am getting the bike polished and ceramic coated to ensure Valentine stays minty fresh at all times:)
 
So Im wondering is it worth the $$$$ or £££££ to try get a few HP more? Would money be better spent on braking and handling? I mean how many of us will notice 12hp gain? probably not many, an empty fuel tank prob gives the same result of about 5hp. Is a decat even worth the aggravation of emissions testing etc Im wondering just slip ons and gearing and get suspension dialled in, if you want a noticeable hike it looks like turbo or sc is way to go. Its a case of bang per buck really, for example slip ons with cat v slip ons no cat, whats the difference in hp gained?3/4/5? Prob lose that on a hot day.
 
JohnnyDangerous said:
So Im wondering is it worth the $$$$ or £££££ to try get a few HP more? Would money be better spent on braking and handling? I mean how many of us will notice 12hp gain? probably not many, an empty fuel tank prob gives the same result of about 5hp. Is a decat even worth the aggravation of emissions testing etc Im wondering just slip ons and gearing and get suspension dialled in, if you want a noticeable hike it looks like turbo or sc is way to go. Its a case of bang per buck really, for example slip ons with cat v slip ons no cat, whats the difference in hp gained?3/4/5? Prob lose that on a hot day.
Click to expand...
Weight of an aftermarket system is the biggest takeaway....lose up to 30lbs off the bike and gain 12 rwhp while you're at it...it's a win-win...

Suspension and braking are definitely the best improvement...
 
JohnnyDangerous said:
So Im wondering is it worth the $$$$ or £££££ to try get a few HP more? Would money be better spent on braking and handling? I mean how many of us will notice 12hp gain? probably not many, an empty fuel tank prob gives the same result of about 5hp. Is a decat even worth the aggravation of emissions testing etc Im wondering just slip ons and gearing and get suspension dialled in, if you want a noticeable hike it looks like turbo or sc is way to go. Its a case of bang per buck really, for example slip ons with cat v slip ons no cat, whats the difference in hp gained?3/4/5? Prob lose that on a hot day.
Click to expand...
That’s an easy one,…put 35lbs of weight in a backpack and ride around in B-mode for a day and tell us you don’t notice a difference… :rofl:

A true full system Brock’s/Akro, etc with his tune will turn your bike into a completely different animal. A lot of small things add up as well. If the cost isn’t an issue, why not? You only live once… :thumbsup:
 
Seems only systems to give a decent gain are 4-2-1, IMO this gonna be too noisy for track and police are on us in the UK, Brocks etc way too loud, surely a stainless aftermarket header has to weigh similar to stock! How heavy is the cat? and what power difference would there be stock header and cat with slip ons v stock header and decat and slip ons (with tune) Sure I can see a big weight loss with full Ti Yoshi 4-2-1 and Ti can
 
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