Need some brake advice

[too many toys]

Looks like my 07 is in need of new brakes. What do you guys recommend? Pads and rotors? Wave rotors? Any advice here would be appreciated

 

[1bondoman]

Don't change rotors unless you just want to. Or unless they are warped.
Put some oem or close quaulity pads on it and call it a day.

 

[too many toys]

Do you think the oem pads are that good? After riding my friends zx14 my brakes feel like crap. There's nothing better?

 

[JPunisher]

My understanding is that the next step up from OEM is to use stainless steel brake lines. A step up from that is changing the rotors. I think Pashnit has Galfer SS lines on sale if I'm not mistaken. I have not tried them. They are on my to do list.

JPunisher

 

[POWERHOUSE]

Do you think the oem pads are that good? After riding my friends zx14 my brakes feel like crap. There's nothing better?

Stainless steel lines and Double H pads or Double H Extreme pads would do the trick nicely. The Extreme pads will have you doing Polish wheelies! We have everything in stock . . .

 

[too many toys]

And how much would that run?

 

[Tony Nitrous]

Gen-2 front end and sell yours.

I don't believe you'll get great brakes with the stock 6 pots.
They were pretty average even when brand new.
I have a everything clean and in A1 condition, good fluid, pads, braided lines etc on my Gen-1.
The stock rubber line brakes on my almost 8 year old B-King are waaaaaay better.
To me it's false economy and I'm chasing a Gen-2 front end for mine.

I'm very impressed with radial brakes, but never liked the old 6-plops.

 

[POWERHOUSE]

And how much would that run?

It depends on what you choose. Most "sets" are two lines from the master down to the calipers; Galfer makes a clear-coated stainless steel line set with hardware for $100 (their "platinum" version is $119), and Goodridge does a similar clear coated stainless set with hardware for $125. Both companies make them available in black for the same prices. When it comes to stainless lines, we prefer the Goodridge and normally do custom lines: one from the master to the right caliper and then a "flip" over the front fender to the other caliper like the stock lines run. We have the custom lines in stock as well. As far as brake pads are concerned, the double H (HH) pads are $45/set and the HH Extreme pads are $75/set.

With stainless lines in the over the fender setup and double H pads, I could lock the front wheel on my 2000 Busa if I wanted to.

 

[too many toys]

So for the custom over the fender line in black and the double HH pad. How much we talkin?

 

[POWERHOUSE]

So for the custom over the fender line in black and the double HH pad. How much we talkin?

Let me take a look . . .

 

[POWERHOUSE]

So for the custom over the fender line in black and the double HH pad. How much we talkin?

The Ebony lines with black banjo ends and black bolts - the complete setup, would be $150. The double HH pads are $45/set.

 

[too many toys]

Ok. Thank you

 

[fallenarch]

I am running the Kevlar lines and they are amazing! Best mod I have ever done and the brakes feel like reverse thrust on a 747.



Ok they don't feel any different from braided steel. It's cool to say I have it though. Some say Kevlar can burst but I understand that issue is fixed. Lots of pro racers use them so I figured I needed them as I'm as fast as they are right?

To me the brake mods go in this priority order:

1. Steel lines - Improves feel and power. Basically a muct do mod on the Busa.
2. Double H pads - Improves bite. Big difference in bite actually. Helps overall power too. This is cheap and easy so it is easily the best value for the money.
3. Radial MC - Mostly improves feel and control in modulating the brakes but not absolute power typically. This is expensive but it brings the Busa brakes on par with other sportbikes.
4. Caliper upgrade - Improves everything basically. You only need this if you ride fast but it is a clear improvement. This is expensive but worth it to fast twisty riders
5. Rotors. - Short of a warp or extreme gouging of the rotor this is a cosmetic change IMHO. Wave rotors do cool better I hear, but I have never had the OEM rotor overheat.

Items 1 & 2 are mostly about getting the power of the brakes up to the task (Suzuki should be shot for the OEM brakes). The rest are about getting better feel and control on the brakes. I have the Brembo MC & Calipers and these are a pretty surprising weight reduction too. Lighter rotors would help turning I suppose, but not sure that it would be noticeable in street use.

 

[too many toys]

Thanks for those tips

 

[BusaRydah]

If it was my bike:

Braking SK2 Rotors - Braking Brake Rotors for Suzuki Hayabusa 2007
EBC HH pads - Braking, EBC Brakes for Suzuki Hayabusa 2007
HEL Brake Lines - HEL Brake Lines For Suzuki GSXR1300 RX-K7 Hayabusa (1999-2007)
Motul Brake Fluid - http://www.solomotoparts.com/Motul-Dot-5.1-Brake-Fluid/

Then have those shipped to jason@300below.com for cryogenic treatment, exclude the brake fluid of course.

M

 

[Busabim]

You could always try these front brakes on the gen 1 and they are only dual 4 piston calipers....